Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Someone may have previously mentioned this but buy a quality service book like a Haynes manual, I think they do one specifically for cars with the VR6 engine, in all honesty most of the cars I work on are VW’s and they aren’t that bad to work on, when it comes to the TDI’s they are a breeze apart from the damn triple square fasteners holding the CV axles to the transmission flanges as someone had previously mentioned, but on the plus side when you do swap out an axle you don’t have oil leaking all over the place because you aren’t left with gaping holes in the gearbox. The jobs that you mentioned intake manifold oil air fuel filters etc should be pretty straightforward despite the more limited access you are given, but the exhaust manifold could be tricky…the bolts are usually rusted up and may require special extractor tools like Turbosockets to remove.
As for the exhaust bolts being rusted, you can use a set of TurboSockets http://turbosocket.com/ to get those out, they work a treat!
Yeah Johnzcars is quite right when he says about using a type of lube when cutting threads, you can get a specific cutting compound which works wonders by allowing a cleaner cut and trapping the pieces of cut metal in the lubricant, it also prevents heat buildup. It would help to have a thread gauge (if your tap and die set did not come with one) to gauge threads so you can select the correct size tool when chasing threads, and one last note, get hold of an Engineers Square to set the tool up perfectly straight and when cutting do one full turn and 1/4 reverse turn then 1 full turn etc to break the material away that you are cutting. You have acquired a helpful tool and it will come in very useful!
Here are my tools, I work out of the back of my car at the moment or do all my work outside because I don’t have a garage like most of you! I’ve probably invested a shade under 1000$ and my inventory is as follows:
Silverline combination spanners sizes from 8 to 24mm (surprisingly good quality and lifetime guarantee)
Silverline ratchet spanners sizes from 8mm to 24mm
Milligrip adjustable spanner (this thing is amazing!)
Set of Silverline crowsfoot wrench set sizes from 8mm to 13mm
Set of unknown 1/4 sockets sizes from 4.5 to 13mm
Set of unknown of 3/8 sockets sizes from 9 to 19mm
Set of Silverline 1/2 sockets sizes from 10mm to 24mm (again good quality and lifetime guarantee)
Sealey Premier 3/8 and 1/2 breaker bars
US PRO 3/4 breaker bar and 30mm hex and bi hex sockets
Sealey Premier 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets (really good feel to them and lifetime guarantee)
Liftmaster floor jack for getting under my lowered VW Golf!
Silverline axle stands
Ryobi One+ 18V impact wrench with NiCd batteries for now
Various other tools like wire brushes, mini pliers, pickle forks, hammers, drill bits and screwdriver bits.As mentioned before I don’t have a garage and work out the back of my car so this is all I can fit really…but it has served me well and saved me a lot of cash!
+
Impact drivers are generally not that great for any work involving the removal of bolts as you have to buy adaptors to convert the 1/4 inch quick release chuck to a 1/4 3/8 or 1/2 square drive, and the use of the adaptor takes away some of the impact action, impact wrenches are a whole different story and are designed to remove nuts and bolts rather than driving in screws using 1/4 inch screwdriver bits which is what an impact driver is designed for, however, you can use an impact wrench to drive in screws no problem! I have the Ryobi One+ 18V impact wrench which is really good and definatley makes work easier, I am going to get a LiOn upgrade kit for it soon.
I shouldn’t see why only taking one nut off at a time and replacing it with the new nut could cause any problems, I have done it before with a BMW E36 and it was perfectly fine. As long as the wheel is correctly centered on the hub which it should be.