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they do it that way for trucks all of the time. Your trouble is going to be finding strut spacers for your vehicle. And yes you will need to re-align it.
Which particular models of the two brands are you looking at getting?
Hankook I would go with Ventus S1 nobel2 (H452) I have sold these and no one came back complaining
Dunlop I would actually go with the parent brand Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetric all season
The goodyear has a $70.00 rebate going on right now
either one is a good choice.
We mechanics could make a full length movie trilogy and still not have enough time to show all of the stupidity we deal with.
[quote=”Beaird” post=159215]The reason new tires are recommended to go on the rear when purchasing in pairs is not for the reasons that were tested in this video.
Pleas allow me to try and explain.
First:
Several years ago a repair facility that I will not name was sued for wrongful death that resulted from a vehicle that HYDROPLANED in the rear causing the driver to spin out of control and crash. There have been other such lawsuits that have been won since this.Second:
It is ONLY RECOMMENDED placing the new tires on the rear if the tread depth of the tires being kept on the vehicle is UNDER 3/32 of an inch. This is because on WET road surfaces tires that are worn below 3/32 are much more likely to hydroplane. Hydroplaning occurs at speeds ABOVE 35 MPH making it near to impossible to recover from the rear of your car sliding out from behind you. This is in contrast to what you would feel if the front of your car began to hydroplane giving you warning and allowing you to slow down. If the rear goes out it is already too late to recover especially since 35 MPH is the minimum speed that hydroplaning can occur, it is much more likely you will be going 45+ MPH.So to clarify, it is not a snow ice traction thing that is the reason they recommend new tires on the rear of a vehicle. It is a wet curved road hydroplaning at speeds above 35 MPH scenario that is the reason. Also as long as the customer is told of this issue and it is documented that they were aware but still insisted on placing two tires on the front then there shouldn’t be any issue with doing as the customer wants.[/quote]
Only if said agreement is in writing. Documentation here is the only defense if there is a lawsuit.
The tire is garbage now, That screw is in the shoulder of the tire and is not repairable.
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=159021]Roadkill. Just watch one episode and I guarantee you will love it.
Just look up Roadkill on YouTube. It’s awesome.[/quote]
Same
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=150191]
A trick that I do now when I get one as sticky as Eric got (yes, I have had a couple) is that I use a large expendable impact socket and fit the pushing disk over the bearing then whack the bejeezus out of it using the socket to hit the disk square… the hammering motion shocks the bearing and gets it moving… and once it starts moving, you’re usually good and can put it in the press and push it out…Karl[/quote]
I was just goung to suggest almost the same thing, I usually hit the knuckle while it is in the press and heat the knuckle as well. It acts like an impact that nine times out of ten works, If that doesn’t work then it is time to cut it out like Eric did.
Honestly I would check out http://www.therangerstation.com/ for any and all ranger based vehicle needs.
Once again T.I.A. rules are that the better tires ALWAYS go on the rear if one is only getting two tires. Snow tires ALWAYS go on as a full set as well. If you don’t know what the T.I.A. is then you shouldn’t be installing tires.