Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
On that car and engine the only fuel filter is at the carby assembly. There is no other in-line fuel filter outside the fuel tank (There is the filter on the in tank fuel pick up. )
If you are not going to use the Audi product(you should) then I would use this Castrol gear oil…………………..
CASTROL SYNTRAX UNIVERSAL PLUS 75W-90 (Global Product)
Fully synthetic automotive gear oil, recommended for vehicles with manual transaxles that combine gearbox and hypoid differentials; eg. Toyota Celica 4WD, Subaru, Porsche and Alfa Romeo.
Recommended for use in manual transmission where 75W-90 GL-4 or 5 lubricants are recommended. Suitable for rear axles of light cars and secondary drive axles of 4WD vehicles for reduced viscous drag and enhanced fuel efficiency, especially for around town service.[u]Full synthetic, multipurpose manual transmission and final drive lubricant.
May be used in synchronized manual transmissions and final drives/differentials of a wide range of vehicles (commercial vehicle, construction equipment, passenger cars) where API GL-4 or GL-5 are
required. [/u]The product also carries a number of European HD approvals.
FEATURES & BENEFITS
A single product for transmission and final drive
Excellent low temperature fluidity provides improved cold shift quality in cold conditions and fuel efficiency
Superior high temperature stability and excellent and wear protection even in the most arduous conditions prolongs equipment life and allows for extended oil drain intervals
Full compatibility with conventional mineral oils and seals allows this product to be used in a wide range of applicationsSPECIFICATION/TECHNICAL DATA
API GL-5, GL-4 & MT-1
SAE 75W-90
MAN 3343 Type S
Scania STO 1:0
MB Approval 235.8
ZF TE-ML, 02B, 05B, 12B, 16F, 17B, 19C, 21BC
SAE MJ2360 (MIL-PRF-2105E)
Eaton Approved for 300,000km’s drainThere was a GM recall on that car and many others for power steering faults.
There will be service bulletins from GM on problems with the steering system.
Take it to someone who knows these engines and they will tell you pretty quickly exactly what the issue is.
Messing around guessing is a complete waste of time and energy and won’t get the problem fixed. It needs to be rectified if you want to keep the engine operational and your car on the road.
Any decent technician checking over the car before you bought it should have been able to identify the problem and warn you as well. Checking these vehicles before you buy is always money well spent.
If the 2009 Lexus is in good condition and reliable you would be nuts to sell it. Keep it as the family car.
If you want a good manual trans car you can have some fun in then sell the Toyota FJ40 and buy a decent used Mazda MX5/Miata.
I fully agree with the above. (Many Toyota vehicles are also used for towing and these definitely require more frequent fluid changes) .
You should get the fluid changed now if you intend keeping the car. Go to a Toyota dealer for that to ensure they use the same Toyota World Standard (WS) fluid that is in the vehicle now. Go somewhere else and they might put anything in the transmission they have on the shelf they think is good enough. You cannot get all the old fluid out in any event and it is a bad idea to mix different formulations of ATF in your transmission. Use only what Toyota specify even if it is more expensive than off the shelf products that are claimed to be OK to use.
You are not an “energetic driver” but an idiot driver running at over 90 mph in an old car as well as putting your passengers in harms way. Any monkey can do that.
Keep your speed down and magically the vibration you complain of will go away.
[quote=”dburns87″ post=164301]So i am working my way into a automotive technician and during my time on the lube rack I came across a car with tread wearing more on one side of the car. Was just wondering if there was any particular reason of this. The left or driver two tires were at 5/32″ while the passenger side was at 4/32″. This was a 2014 chevy cruze by the way. I read something on torque steer and how the two drive shafts are different lengths so more torque is applied to the shorter shaft and during hard acceleration the scrub rate is higher on one side or something like that? but didn’t really understand how it all worked. Anyone know why this would happen or what would cause this?
Thanks in advance
Dave[/quote]The wear may have very little or nothing to do with torque application at each front wheel but due to other factors. It depends where you took your measurements. If you checked across each tire, the wear is unlikely to be uniform in any event due to inflation and alignment issues.
If the tires were run for long periods at different inflation pressures (quite likely) the wear will not be the same. You can get more wear in the central part of the tire with a higher level of inflation and more on the edge sections with a lower inflation level.
Then you can get uneven wear across the tread if the toe setting on the wheel is out of spec and it is likely that the toe settings on both wheels were probably not the same during the wear life of the tire unless the owner took the car in for frequent wheel alignments. You can have one wheel close to spec and the other side knocked out of spec. Too much toe in or too much toe out will wear one side of the tire more than the other side of that tire.
The soundness of the shock absorbers on each side can also affect tire wear on that corner of the vehicle.
Typically many owners are slack when it comes to checking tire pressures on their cars and most of them don’t even know what the optimum pressures are for their vehicle to obtain good tire wear. Then they adjust the pressures on them when the tires are hot rather than cold and frequently with inaccurate tire gauges. How many of them even bother getting wheel alignment checks every 12 – 15000 miles as they should? I’m sure many don’t bother with wheel alignments until they buy a new set of tires and after that the car rarely sees another alignment.
So I suspect the different wear possibly had much more to do with lack of owner maintenance than anything else.
Yes I did a Front brake upgrade using OE sized parts on a previous GM vehicle I had.
What rotors, in particular, are available to choose from depends on what you drive obviously.
The OE were fine but I wanted to see if there would be much difference with some quality OE size slotted rotors and different pads. I went with Remsa pads(which I found produced nearly twice the pad dust compared with the very low dust OE pads, but not an issue ) and high quality slotted rotors which cost about 65% more than a pair of very good quality OE front rotors (and twice the price of the budget rotors that were available). I did not want drilled rotors.
http://www.remsa.com/products/brake-pads/This produced a definite improvement in braking (and quiet operation remained) and you really noticed the initial bite when you touched the brakes. The original rotors and pads had only done 10,000 miles when changed so (for comparison) were not very old or very worn. So I think it was a worthwhile change in that past vehicle and not an expensive exercise like doing Brembo upgrades can be and which will in most cases require you to change your wheels as well to clear the thicker Brembo calipers.
I would expect you would have a decent choice of products you can buy locally in Canada to suit your car.
I would check out the reviews on the pads and rotors you select before you buy them.
[quote=”matthewross1987″ post=163890]Another thing to check is the slide pins on the caliper bracket. If they are seized, it can cause this issue.[/quote]
I agree with Mathew.
Both pads should have experienced a similar amount of wear but did not because the floating caliper was sticking
and not centering itself over the rotor when the brakes were applied. Uneven pad wear as in the photo (which is not a really bad example) is generally a symptom of the caliper sticking.Buying an unknown old transit van for 300 pounds and expecting it to be reliable transport for a long journey across numerous countries into Eastern Europe with a full load is not sensible. Then apparently not having the money to fix it when the unexpected happens in some country enroute where you will probably not be able to speak the local language is even worse.
Whichever way you look at it you have made poor decisions. If I were you I would be working hard in the UK and getting your finances in better order first and then come up with a much better travel and moving plan.
[quote=”jadethecreator” post=163769]I am replacing my Cat on my 2003 Toyota Camry, and would like suggestions on which brands to look into!
Thanks in advance![/quote]If you have had good service from the brand that is on there now then use the same. It is no doubt the original equipment product that has been there since the car was built so use that product if still available or whatever toyota recommend as the most suitable replacement.
[quote=”AntonioFranco” post=163735]After my mechanic changed the engine mounts and transmission mount the check engine light and AT light turned on any ideas of what went wrong?
2007 Mazda 3 Automatic Transmission 2.0L[/quote]Since your mechanic has done something to cause these issues, if the car was fine immediately before the work, then you should be taking the car back to him and complaining. He has obviously done or not done something to trigger the warning lights so he should be on the hook to fix the problem. He will no doubt try and charge you now for rectifying what he has done wrong.
There are idiots posting videos on YouTube doing all kinds of stupid things to their cars.
No you would never paint an entire brake rotor, just sections that rust up and keep paint well away from the pad contact surface of the rotor. So yes you need to mask up the rotor. Before putting them back on the vehicle give the shiny rotor surfaces where the pads contact,and up to the rotor edge, a good clean up with a fine rated wet and dry abrasive paper and wipe them down well .
