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It was an aftermarket. He’s kinda short on money because he’s on S.S. but when he gets some cash built up he can change it out. It needs a new seal as well. I will keep you updated. Strange as to why the engine temp would cause a harmonic balancer to make noise tho. That’s what I question. You wouldn’t think so. I almost think it may be the torque converter but the sound starting after the HB was changed out is baffling part. This has been strange. It’s also gotten louder since it started about 5 months ago. The trans shifts and performs fine. The pan fairly clean.
It went to the shop (Towed) two weeks ago after quitting again on my Son going to work. There was no fuel pressure at the shop it was taken to. I do trust these guys and have been taking my vehicles to that I can’t or have no time to do it, to them for 15 years with awesome results. O K, the fuel pump was replaced AGAIN. It stalled out on me at a convenience store last night and luckily I got it started again and back here. It’s going back Thurs again because the problem wasn’t fixed. To make a long story short, after I went out and checked one last thing before leaving it to the tech’s, I just tried something by flooring it with the brake on to see if it would do what it always does. Sure enough. It was backfiring under the hood and sputtering and after it got warmed up to running temp it came out of it. I took it around the block and it ran fine. Still doesn’t add up. I wonder if there’s an EGR issue going on here ? The plugs looked “So, So” as well, at least the front 3. Some short story, huh ? Don’t know what that could be. No problems after it does all that. I guess it’s not always when it cold either. It’s intermittent. Don’t know. I’d hate to spend more money on it again. 207,000 mi. I was going to junk it for $300 but his G-Ma beat me to it and said “Fix It.” Wow, $940 to replace a pump. I did it in Dec for $50 for the pump. Must have failed tho.
Don’t you have to evac the system again and refill you forget to purge it, like Eric says he does and I seem to do as well ? I didn’t see in his recharge video if he stated so. I would think so because how would you do it any other way, unless you know of something I don’t that’ll work.
With the battery disconnected ? Actually it would be like touching a screwdriver to a positive battery terminal. It’s not going to do anything unless you touch a ground source at the same time. I’ll give that a try first before attempting anything further.
How do you find connection issues in the relay/fuse under the hood box ? The A/C relay works for a while and you have to open the hood and the box and wiggle the relay for the clutch to engage again, then it stops after driving it, for say 15 min. I was testing the relay connection at the right upper connector at the box with a T-Push Pin and it went in easier than the other 3 connection pins. I was thinking of moving the current connecting wires to an open socket below it and see what happens. The box opens so it can be moved to the blank or whatever that’s called when ones not used, like a spare fuse socket. I haven’t looked into what might be causing it yet. Maybe I should do that before attempting to move anything and see if it’s something simple like I assume it could be. Thanks for your advise.
Found the problem with mine tonight. Faulty relay power connector in the relay/fuse junction box. I just had a thought to wiggle the relay and see what happens. Sure enough the compressor clutch engaged and when I let go, it shut down. So, at the shop I took it to last month said it was the relay and diode, which now appeared to be a joke due to my findings. $370 for labor, evac and recharge a relay and diode they said was bad. Well, they failed to authorize a repair first so I went back to them after the refrig leaked back out and talked to the service manager that the problem was never found, plus I never authorized a repair anyway. I got refunded for the parts and evac and charge but not the labor which is understandable. Anyway it’s working again, finally after all the testing I did yesterday in 93 degree heat and 60 % humidity….get out your tiny violins and bows.
I think instead of opening a new thread that I found related to this issue started back in 2013 about Honda’s I will delete the above post but I need to know if this issue I stated works for any vehicle or do some A/C systems operate differently ? Thanks for your time.
[quote=”Bernard_s3″ post=139380]While driving yesterday the AC in my Civic was working great on my way to the store. When I was going to leave the store my car started fine, but the idle dropped quickly like it was going to stall then it normalized and I noticed the AC was no longer working. There IS pressure in the system, all I did to check this was push the schrader valve a bit. I checked all fuses, swapped the ac clutch relay and the condenser fan relay, but the clutch still won’t engage. The blower motor works, condenser fan works; I jumped the pressure switch on the receiver drier, the clutch still didn’t engage.
What’s a good next step to take?[/quote]Sounds like exactly what happened to me last week but I own a Saturn. I posted it on another thread tho. Isn’t this called Hijacking A Thread ? Don’t know the term. I still haven’t found the problem and I’ve done the same thing you did to eliminate things. It’s really hot and humid here. lol. Just to add a funny note, I was leaving work yesterday and an older lady I work with said her A/C quit working on her Saturn Vue. She had all her windows down and I asked her, “Don’t you use your air conditioning ?” She said, “I’ve been meaning to get it to the shop the last few days”, “it just quit working.” “It only blows out hot air now.” I said, “Isn’t your compressor coming on ?” “Push the button”, she said “What button ?” “This one ?” I said, “Yeah, the one with the snow flake.” Holy, Moly, she didn’t have the A/C button on. I may have just saved her a $150 service charge. Some shops here charge that just to check it. lol. Not likely they would have for that but I don’t trust most shops in this city. She’s a nice lady tho.
I have a different issue now. My original compressor clutch froze up last week and it would turn, so I replaced it with a reman compressor because the replacement clutch was almost the same price, so why not. After all said and done and going to recharge it, the compressor clutch doesn’t engage. Perfect, right ? Well I did some testing and the fuses are good, I switched out the diodes and replay’s from my Mom’s 2003 Saturn and still nothing. I swapped relay’s and the diodes from my Saturn to her’s and her’s engages, mine still nothing. I jumped my clutch wire from my Mom’s with a speaker wire and an old connector from an old compressor and it engages so I suspect as short or issue somewhere in the wiring. It worked fine before it froze up, well except for some split second clicks I mentioned a month or so ago that started a while after I changed the bad line out and vacuum and recharged it. I also watched a richpin06a video about this on S Series Saturn’s and I assume they would be the same except for compressors, they’re in different places is all, and my pressure switch has 3 terminals not 2 like an S Series. With a multimeter I had a 0.00 reading at the P.S. as his did and voltage to the clutch connector. Don’t know where else to go from here. Wiring, fuse block ? It sure was nice to have thought I’d done a great job on my own replacing the leaking parts and getting it going again and to find out something else decides to fail. I guess we all have at auto repair somehow. Need some advise. By the time I get it going, I won’t need it anymore this season. I think I’ve stated that before too.
I replaced the neutral safety switch and now only one back-up light is functional. I checked the passenger side assy and there’s no power to the socket. It blows fuses with the socket back in it. I suspect an issue with the assy ground or socket. Either way I thought I’d update you on it. This will be interesting.
[quote=”college man” post=142580]If the high side gauge rose there is still a leak on the high side. It should stay in a vacuum.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-hvac-problems%5B/quote%5DIt must be small because I recharged it almost two weeks ago and it’s still cooling. The only issue is that the sound it’s making behind the dash worries me due to the fact that usually means, “As I stated” it’s losing refrig. I’ll have to put it back in the garage and take the UV light to it again and see what I can find. Also I heard that my compressor’s starting to make a series of clicks when I start up the A/C. Could be a failing clutch coil starting. I also found that the relay and diode were bad before when the compressor wouldn’t start-up before. Sorry if I stated this just recently. I’m a member of a Saturn forum and can’t remember where I’ve post things and what forum I haven’t. Bear with me. I’m not 25 anymore. lol. Add over 30 to that. Still love cars and working on them and helping others with theirs. Thanks for your comment. You people have been a huge help.
After I did a vacuum of the A/C system and it sat for 30 min. the high side gauge rose above the peg slightly but still not above “0”. The low side remained on the peg. Could that mean there still could be a leak in the high side somewhere or either ? There also is an intermittent sound behind the radio area like gas or something flowing. I assume it’s coming from the evap coil behind the dash that may mean it’s getting lower on refrig. My Mom’s 2003 also makes that same sound but still cools fine after I found a leak from the low pressure valve two years ago and did a recharge on it. Thanks for any advise.
As a matter of fact I did notice that about the way the car design looked. It appears exactly how you stated with the body style. My Mom has a 2003 L200 and she said the first time she saw that, “It sits higher than mine.” It does but not that much. Anyway, thanks for the tip. Never heard of the term. I will Google it.
That’s what I figured because my manual doesn’t show anything on it for an automatic. That’s why I assumed it was there myself. Thanks for the info.