Compare list 0

[Sean]

[quote=”nightflyr” post=175247]Is the seal leaking?
If not, don’t kick a sleeping lion.
If it is, by all means.

Clean the flywheel of what?
Dirt and grime?.. brake clean should do just fine.
Might also consider having it faced.[/quote]

Keep in mind this is a used car, that was very much not looked after by its previous owners. So I was thinking more preventative maintenance, but no it is not leaking.
How much does having it machined usually run? I know Eric likes using the plastic disc with his die-grinder.

[Sean]

[quote=”Rob781″ post=171471]thats very easy to check if the tires are round…. take each tire off… find a flat and level area and roll the tire and it should like roll like 15 ft on it own… if it will not do atleast 2 rev and keeps falling on one side… uslly the tire has a bump on it… then put the donut on and try your car and see if that goes away… then you fix it… a very easy diagnostic[/quote]

Brand new tires on all 4 wheels, im worried the actual wheels arent round.
Also about the timing, I checked that yesterday, still good. Still tension on the belt too.
And about the exhaust rattle I haven’t actually checked the brackets, will do that too in the morning.

[Sean]

[quote=”Rob781″ post=171465][quote=”DaCoder” post=171462]Hello!
I’m back again with more questions about issues I have had no luck solving, even after spending hundreds of dollars 😀
These problems are the three WORST about my car right now, and happen on a daily basis.
Now I am not asking for “oh its this part for sure” because I know that is impossible. What I am asking is what could be causing this?

1. Vibration at VERY certain speeds above 60. Usually only a 1-2 mph window that it will happen and a 5 mph gap in between where it won’t. It just simply shakes the whole car, not just the steering wheel. The steering wheel however, I have the most vibration in.
I have replaced the following:
wheel bearings (cheap),
upper control arms and ball joints,
lower ball joints,
inner and outer tie rods,
tires,
struts…
and services:
did a steering rack adjustment,
checked all bushings for play,
got wheels all balanced TWICE,
I had it aligned after installing tie rods, fronts were perfectly in spec, and the rear passenger side was good too, the rear driver side was camber off.
[/quote]
I would duble check it yourself…. goto each tire and shake it up and down the car, check the shoks and with the tires off the ground shake them left and right and up/down and spin each tire… and see if you notice anything diffrent…
have you checked your sway bar bushings and sway bar links both front and back???

what I think you might be getting into is humatics frequency sorry I dont know how to spell it… but it happens to my car I have bad back shocks in it… runs fine at like 30mph but when I get up to 55+ sometimes it will start to shake and will then if I speed up or slow down or change lanes it will go away.. what it is doing is the feq is amplifying on it self and building on it self…. and growing…. when I chaange lanes or do something diffrent it will brake the osilations and will go away… this only happens on the highway and on side streets you have cracks and other bumps that will brake up the hermonics osillations…. and highways are very smooth that will allow it to build and build un like side streets…
and if you dont beleave this can happen the golden gate bridge broke because of the feq of the hermatic osilations… but if that is it sorry that will not tell you what it is but might explain what and why your having it… but you will have to recheck everything of your suspention yourself and see if you see anything wierd and explore it.. hopefully that helps you[/quote]

I know what you are stating, its harmonic oscillations. Possible, but I have new struts. The sway bars have bad bushings, cause clunks over bumps.
I was thinking it might be wheels aren’t round… But i will recheck them tomorrow.

[Sean]

[quote=”college man” post=168667]Sounds like you need to recheck all the work.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues%5B/quote%5D
Thanks, read up on the brakes, the performance issues I have read in depth beforehand.
I redid the brakes and found the rear wheel cylinder was leaking horribly.
New ones from Advance Auto and a quick bleed later and all is good.

[quote=”Nodak81″ post=168675]Sorry I can’t offer much advise about the troubles, but for the torque issue you need to get a inch-pound torque wrench. Even good brands of torque wrenches are usually way off when used at their extreme limits (either minimum or maximum ratings). 2.9 * 12 = ~35 in-lbs.[/quote]
So I went back in and retried again…
But this time I used a 12 inch long 3/8ths inch ratchet, and a 0 – 10 pounds mail weight scale.
Pushing that down on the side of the ratchet and I got it perfect now. Also used a protractor for the 20 degrees portion.
Feel pretty proud of that. 😀
in/lb torque wrench will be my next tool purchase.

For the valve adjustment, I will be turning the screws on the intake side 1/4th out and then re-learning idle procedure.

[Sean]

[quote=”college man” post=165547]not sure on the car quest. but heard good things about this.

Ah, I have heard the the brand name Exedy mentioned before, however it was always used in a “modder” or “bad-ass” tone. It’s not going to be super tough to shift or “performance” is it?

[Sean]

[quote=”LemonadeAlex” post=165503]1990 Chevy 1500
5.7

Story. Replaced; compressor, condenser, drier, orifice tube. Then took it to go get charged. Found out it also needed the low pressure switch, but left the charge. After replacing all that it went fine for a few days, no sounds nothing. I put some oil in all units that i replaced. about 3/4 of an 8 oz bottle. After a week, there was no charge. A leak was then was found on the connection fittings.

Then I replaced the whole discharge hose assembly and went to go get it charged again. Now there is a sound that sounds mainly like a whining but possibly with a slight girding undertone to it . This sound was not there the first time i tried charging the system, and it only happens at a certain rpm. but I hear it when I drive as well as feel it through the pedal.

What could it possibly be?

Slipping belt?
Low refrigerant?
Fan clutch?

I also notice that the clutch does not ever cycle off, it just stays constantly on.

I need advice because if this is a truck I will eventually sell, this sound can not exist.
I have been dealing with this system too much and its starting to really irritate and stress me out with a baby due next month, so I’m running out off time that I’m able to work on the system.[/quote]

Sounds like a compressor issue to me, have another person hear around the a/c compressor when the car is at that certain RPM in neutral.
As far as the cycling on / off; get some manifold gauges on there and read them while at that certain RPM.

[Sean]

[quote=”Phoenix-9-7″ post=163891]Ok well here’s where I got today, thank you guys so much for the help! I got it off, got myself a BFH and hammered it off, turns out I didn’t break the pins I just bent one (thank God it can be slid out without having to remove the whole assembly). The parking brake shoes were so stuck that I actually took a chunk off of one of the shoes. I figured it’s not a big deal since it’s only parking brake but I’ll see how it works. I’ll order new pins tomorrow and I’ll replace it. But everything so far looks good[/quote]

Nice to hear! BFH are a man’s best friend. … Or tool 😛

[Sean]

[quote=”Phoenix-9-7″ post=163831]I don’t have a vice in my garage but I know a few people with a vice, as far as taking off the knuckle how would that help my situation? I’d rather not have to do that but if that’s all I can do then i’ll get cracking I guess. As far as checking the parking brake from the inside of the vehicle how would I go about doing that? it is a pedal not a lever. Ill try the penetrating oil but I was afraid it would collect all the dust and it would gum it up.[/quote]

Its probably a standard Toyota parking pedal mechanism:

The knuckle is a LAST resort. Try hammering around the top of the “hat” (in between the studs basically) when I worked on my sister’s Mazda the rear brakes REFUSED to come off, so I used some penetrating oil and hammered around the studs (with quite alot of force, btw) and it popped off eventually.

Eric’s video on the subject: go to about 0:26

[Sean]

[quote=”Phoenix-9-7″ post=163829]Hey guys! hope everyone is all and well. Anyways I have found myself in a shitty situation. I’m working on a 2010 toyota venza AWD model. As the title says the rear rotors are stuck on the parking brakes (it’s the design with the drums inside the rotor).

Here’s what i’ve done so far:
1. Made sure the parking brake is off
2. Have tried to adjust the star wheel so that it moves in but it doesn’t seem to be doing anything (I don’t know if they’re the same as the star wheels on drums but if they are they would have the little metal arm that clicks in between the teeth of the wheels correct? so then that would mean that the way it moves easily is to adjust outward and the only way to adjust in would be to lift the arm and rotate up right? I have tried looking for an access hole in the backing plate but there doesn’t seem to be one.
3. I have tried to use the threaded holes on the rotors to push them off but all i heard was a popping noise and later came to find out that was the pin holdng it to the backing plate that went POP! At this point I can’t put it back together and say forget about it and do it another day. I’ve passed the point of no return. I have read many threads dealing with this problem and as far as i can see i have a few options:

1. Hammering it off from the back and hope nothing expensive breaks
2. continue to play with the star wheel in hopes something happens
3. torch it (I don’t have access to a torch that would heat it up enough though so I don’t think this option is going to work.)

I need to get this done by Sunday night because it needs to be on the road for Monday. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance![/quote]

Can you take the rear knuckle off of the car and over to a bench vise to get a better hold on it? Did you make sure the parking brake wasn’t adjusted too tightly (from inside the car)? Penetrating oil does help btw, and hammer blows to the front “hat” of the rotor help to break that corrosion.

[Sean]

[quote=”college man” post=163708]It sounds like the aftermarket part is the problem.[/quote]

Yeah got myself a part from Advance Auto Parts, simply because I can’t afford OEM through Majestic Honda… And i need my car for work (to get enough money to fix other stuff on it)

Clutch is now within spec, the Honda dealer told me I can use the clutch switch to bring in any free play, down to the specified amount. The FSM I have from online skips that page.

Brake pedal height is now an issue, however.

Fixed that clutch pedal.

Here’s a pic of the brake rod.

[Sean]

[quote=”DrD” post=162995][quote=”DaCoder” post=162962]I applied about 30 lbs of pressure, so prob around 30-40 ft/lbs on each bolt, i did in a cross pattern, and the bolts call for 27 ft/lbs.
You don’t think the mating surface could cause it?[/quote]
With an o-ring seal like this, the o-ring is compressed within a groove – it’s very difficult to over compress the o-ring, since the system by design limits how much the o-ring can compress – so unless the torque is so high you deform the water pump housing, it’s not going to cause a leak.

Scoring/damage to the mating surface can definitely cause a leak, but unless it happened when you removed the old pump and installed a new one, it’s not a likely culprit (unless it was leaking before) – damage in the o-ring groove on the new part could cause the same thing to happen – so if the part is defective, then that could be the cause as well.

You really need to start pulling it apart and see where the leak is coming from – complete removal of the pump might not be necessary – if the bolts are readily accessible, you could certainly start with loosening then re-torquing them down. (if that fixes it, it saves you the headache of tearing things down all the way, that’s for sure!)[/quote]

Yeah that is my plan, I just need to wait for my torque wrench that I bought off of Amazon to arrive. You think its safe to drive?

[quote=”Cammed 05″ post=162977]What vehicle is this on? I would pop the cover off and take a gander to see where the leak is at and start from there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/quote]

1994 Accord LX. The timing belt kit I bought was for an EX model, but it should be the same block so I installed the water pump anyways.
EDIT: same part number from Honda on both engines: 19200-P0A-003

[Sean]

[quote=”DrD” post=162960]you need to pull it apart and look. could be the o-ring shifted, and if so, it might be damaged now (the o-ring, not the pump). Could also be the new part is defective and leaking at the seal… for a static o-ring seal on the water pump, I generally have not used a torque wrench, but do take care to do the bolts in a cross pattern starting from the center and working out (how well you can do that depends on what your water pump looks like) – I would be surprised if it were just too low torque on the bolts, unless it was so low they backed out…[/quote]

It was probably on the over-torqued side.
3/8th inch ratchet about 12 inches long.
I applied about 30 lbs of pressure, so prob around 30-40 ft/lbs on each bolt, i did in a cross pattern, and the bolts call for 27 ft/lbs.
You don’t think the mating surface could cause it?

[Sean]

[quote=”DaCoder” post=162136][quote=”nightflyr” post=162135]Of the cuff..
From what I can see from the pic you took and the drawing..
Is it possible remove the shaft and pulley by raising the engine enough?
That way all you need to bring to the mechanic is the shaft itself to weld a nut[/quote]

I don’t know for certain what it entails to lift the engine enough to take out the front balance shaft.
Rear mount and front mount of course but I don’t know if I would need to remove the axles or any wiring…
EDIT: taking out the rear and front engine mounts, and the timing belt side mount, leaving the trans mount. Also disconnecting the A/C compressor (not the lines just the mounting bolts) I am getting it to work!
Will update with pic when I get it out, need 1/2 inch swivel to pull rear mount out completely.
I got it up to the uppermost point it could: exhaust, axle, and rear mount all disco’d. It raised it high enough for me to see that the “retainer” is actually the WHOLE oil pump assembly on the front of the engine! So I couldn’t take that off, having not enough RTV. Instead I tried drilling + extractor. Well it sheared off before I could even see if it would grab *sigh*. Can’t get it out so I gave up and put everything back on. Will have to tow it to a shop.
I’ll have to ask my grandparents for a loan.[/quote]

Update: timing belt is replaced!
Bled the coolant, and checked the oil.
Re-adjusted the timing, its spot on now, and re-did the idle speed at exactly 750RPM.
Runs MUCH smoother now, and I am not getting the ignition timing bouncing all over the place as I did before.
Still need to replace the spark plug seals under the valve train and adjust the valves since they are making noise.

[Sean]

[quote=”nightflyr” post=162135]Of the cuff..
From what I can see from the pic you took and the drawing..
Is it possible remove the shaft and pulley by raising the engine enough?
That way all you need to bring to the mechanic is the shaft itself to weld a nut[/quote]

I don’t know for certain what it entails to lift the engine enough to take out the front balance shaft.
Rear mount and front mount of course but I don’t know if I would need to remove the axles or any wiring…
EDIT: taking out the rear and front engine mounts, and the timing belt side mount, leaving the trans mount. Also disconnecting the A/C compressor (not the lines just the mounting bolts) I am getting it to work!
Will update with pic when I get it out, need 1/2 inch swivel to pull rear mount out completely.
I got it up to the uppermost point it could: exhaust, axle, and rear mount all disco’d. It raised it high enough for me to see that the “retainer” is actually the WHOLE oil pump assembly on the front of the engine! So I couldn’t take that off, having not enough RTV. Instead I tried drilling + extractor. Well it sheared off before I could even see if it would grab *sigh*. Can’t get it out so I gave up and put everything back on. Will have to tow it to a shop.
I’ll have to ask my grandparents for a loan.

[Sean]

[quote=”DaCoder” post=161923][quote=”nightflyr” post=161872]

[/quote]

Ok… so its a day later again and I have given up. Sort of.
My grandpa, who owns the garage my car was in to work on, said no to torching the shaft where there is oil nearby.
So I tried everything else I could think of, ended up looking like this…

I will be towing the car to a mechanic (for free luckily) and having him remove the bolt for money. I will then continue the installation of my timing belt.
Good thing I waited till spring break, cus this “1+1/2 day” job is gonna take 5-6 now. I have classes next Tuesday, hopefully I can drive there by then 😀

To EricTheCarGuy, you should update the VManual you have because the FSM says to insert a screwdriver down into the hole for the balance shaft, whereas you use a pair of channel locks as I did at first and ended up damaging the pulley. As seen in the above picture.
TBH this whole issue has arisen because I didn’t know you should use a screwdriver down on the balance shaft to lock it in place. Holding two different tools ended up making the wrench pop off the nut and round off the top. And after a few thousand more tries its wasted.[/quote]

Local mechanics want to charge 100 bucks to weld on a nut and remove it, and its 85 dollars to tow it both ways. I don’t have that much money so Is it ok to leave that seal leaking and the bolt all whacked up like that? I am faced with two options: (both really bad) either keep trying to remove the bolt and have the car not running for longer, or slap it back together and drive around with a leaking seal…
Currently I am waiting on the cam seal and valve kit, until they come here I think I’ll just keep trying to remove it.
I have literally 0 clue how to do so, since even if we heat it up i still cant get a grab on the bolt to torque it off.

[Author]

Replies