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[quote=”college man” post=182692][quote=”DaCoder” post=182686][quote=”college man” post=182682]See if this helps.
Yeah I have seen that multiple times, thanks however. The punch method (which was the only method that might have worked) wasn’t working since I can’t orient the punch to spin the bolt. Its too constricted. I broke an easy-out in the bolt, so i can’t drill it out again and try another.
I tried again this morning, and upon just making it worse, I am just going to take it to the shops instead.Just to re-iterate:
“How would I clean/prep the head for gasket mating?
Can I re-use the head-to-manifold gasket?
And can i also re-use the manifold-to-downpipe gasket?”If it is too much to get the bolt removed, I will have to leave it as it is, and just get the exhaust manifold flattened.[/quote]
Heres how I would prep the head and block. you can buy a smaller sanding block.
if the gaskets are metal reuse if not I would replace.[/quote]
They are steel, but they have carbon build up on them (in between the steel sheets). Would I have to somehow clean off the areas between the steel sheets?
Sorry when I asked about the head, I didn’t mean head gasket surface, I mean’t head to exhaust manifold area.
[quote=”college man” post=182682]See if this helps.
Yeah I have seen that multiple times, thanks however. The punch method (which was the only method that might have worked) wasn’t working since I can’t orient the punch to spin the bolt. Its too constricted. I broke an easy-out in the bolt, so i can’t drill it out again and try another.
I tried again this morning, and upon just making it worse, I am just going to take it to the shops instead.Just to re-iterate:
“How would I clean/prep the head for gasket mating?
Can I re-use the head-to-manifold gasket?
And can i also re-use the manifold-to-downpipe gasket?”If it is too much to get the bolt removed, I will have to leave it as it is, and just get the exhaust manifold flattened.
[quote=”Lampert” post=181244]You know what, upon rereading the topic, I don’t think that the balance is the issue, I was’t paying full attention and jumped to a conclusion, sorry and I hope someone else could answer your question better,[/quote]
Video of my steering rack visibly moving when in park and turning wheel: https://youtu.be/Wb0TIKpP8Wg
Does that amount of movement look ok to you?
[quote=”Lampert” post=181244]You know what, upon rereading the topic, I don’t think that the balance is the issue, I was’t paying full attention and jumped to a conclusion, sorry and I hope someone else could answer your question better,[/quote]
Ok, well thanks anyhow…
[quote=”Lampert” post=181238]sounds like your wheels aren’t balanced, and may need counter weights installed on them. Ask the shop to balance your wheels on the car. They have a machine that aligns the wheel when its off the car (they do it when replacing tires), that obviously doesn’t take the deviation of the bearings, brakes and hub into account. It should cost around 45$ to do all four wheels (at east where I’m from). The machine they use for this looks like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hz_vhHEk-qQ/maxresdefault.jpg
Good luck.[/quote]I had them balanced at discount tire, then again at firestone. You are suggesting that “roadforce” balance? I don’t really know where to get one here… Thanks for the suggestion, ill see if i can find one.
What do you want to be your legacy? And i am not referring ty the Subaru 😛
What will people hopefully remember you from?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=175253]”Machine shop flywheel resurfacing normally costs around $80. A mechanic that does regular business may get it for $50, and a high retail/counter price would be $100.”
:pinch: Dannnnng.
Shops around here are cheap.
To cut rotors and drums is usually $10.00 – $15.00[/quote]Ok so the clutch has been replaced, the rear main as well, and the throwout bearing too. Used locktite on the flywheel, it was perfectly machined (brand new clutch looks like). Rear main was leaking, and there was no metal bearing in the flywheel (came in kit)… so this leads me to suspect the PO got the clutch replaced, but didnt have the throwout bearing / rear main replaced. I’ll keep the clutch that I pulled out just in case.
HOWEVER: I followed ETCG’s vid on axle boot replacements, and three things happened: I smashed my face with my hammer (and have quite a bruise from it) after it glanced off the axle… because the axle did not budge at all… then i cut my finger trying to take it out of the vise. (no anger at ETCG though, just at these stupidly cheap axles the PO put in (they aren’t OEM, and one of them has ABS ring on it.
Oh and the axle blew up when I hit it hard enough. I kept some of the metal ball bearings (for slingshots ofc) all I am waiting on now is for a ride to buy a new axle. The other one I didn’t even attempt to fix, I just electrical taped around the hole and zip-tied around that. Hopefully it holds. (trying to keep the axles from spraying grease all over the place through some small holes in the boot)
New axle (remanuf.) and its all together, no leaks. The new pressure plate is MILES better than the one I pulled out. The one I pulled out took like 20Lbs of pressure just to floor the clutch. New one is super smooth, and easy. Exedy “exeeded” my expectations here 😛
[quote=”Rob781″ post=178360]now did you take the other nuts off? those nuts looks like locking nuts and are not ment to be taken off like the nuts that are an sway bars links that you uselly have to cut the stud off to get the nut off… you can try a nut splitter that will cut the nut in two that will if used correctly will not damaged the stud… but the studs you have broken already I see two options to shorten the stud and weld another stud on it to extend the stud out so that,,, what you would do is get a cheap nut put it on the stud and cut the stud so the stud is flush to the stud uselling the nut as a gide then taking the nut and throwing it away….. and welding a new add on stud to teh old stud… the other way is to try and take the stud off and hope it doesnt break off… you might be able to reweld anothe stud on if your lucky or you would have to drill it out… there are some tools that might be able to get the broken stud out but with aluminum head vs a steel stud you will have to be very careful with it… you might have to take the head off and take it to a meshine shop to have them re drill it and plug it… you might have problems with a hand drill trying to go off the stud and keep trying to drill the softer aluminum so you might have to use a drill press to do it but req the head to have to come off… you can try heating the head around the stud when trying to remove it might help but all I can tell u is good luck and see what happens but be prepared for the worst… I would also tell you to ask some machine shops on there thoughts and ideas because you might have to take it to them to have it done.[/quote]
Whoa there, i didnt touch anything lol. They were broken already when i pulled the heatshield. Also those nuts are oem for this year. I’m guessing theyve never been removed, and someone tried to fix the same exhaust leak I’ve found, and it snapped the studs.
So you are saying take it to a shop or forget about it effectively, because i have no decent welder, or stud cutter, etc. Ill probably just have to let it slide, seeing as how i dont have enough money to take it to the shop.
[quote=”Rob781″ post=178231]Now did the nut break off? did the stud break in two?… if you can get the stud off with out breaking it I would do that but my fear is it breaks off and you would have to take the whole head off to drill it out…I would replace it with a stanless stud… what I would try because I would be afreaid of breaking the stud is take a tap set and retap the stud and get a stainless nut and put it back on, but if you think you can get the stud off I would go that route just becaufe that you dont crack the aluminim head by driving it in to far… thats my thoughts
[quote=”DaCoder” post=178228]Well as life usually goes, i have not yet had time to replace my clutch…
But today while detailing my car, i noticed an exhaust leak near the manifold. I pulled off the exhaust heat shield (broke one of those bolts out of the three), and saw that two studs are sheared off on the right side, and one on the left. The manifold has deformed over heat cycles, and is now no longer sealing cylinder 4.
Should i try and drill out the bolt from the manifold, or leave it? And with the manifold removed, i have about a 1-inch length of stud that i can use… Maybe the 2 nut method, or straight to vise-grips? Are these special nuts reusable?
Mpg has decreased from 26-30 to sub 22. Also will be replacing the gasket just below the exhaust manifold.[/quote][/quote]
Ok here is the video: https://youtu.be/u5bnjAHAPOM
I intend to just replace those studs / nuts, and the gasket for the manifold to head, and manifold to a-pipe.[quote=”Rob781″ post=178231]Now did the nut break off? did the stud break in two?… if you can get the stud off with out breaking it I would do that but my fear is it breaks off and you would have to take the whole head off to drill it out…I would replace it with a stanless stud… what I would try because I would be afreaid of breaking the stud is take a tap set and retap the stud and get a stainless nut and put it back on, but if you think you can get the stud off I would go that route just becaufe that you dont crack the aluminim head by driving it in to far… thats my thoughts
[quote=”DaCoder” post=178228]Well as life usually goes, i have not yet had time to replace my clutch…
But today while detailing my car, i noticed an exhaust leak near the manifold. I pulled off the exhaust heat shield (broke one of those bolts out of the three), and saw that two studs are sheared off on the right side, and one on the left. The manifold has deformed over heat cycles, and is now no longer sealing cylinder 4.
Should i try and drill out the bolt from the manifold, or leave it? And with the manifold removed, i have about a 1-inch length of stud that i can use… Maybe the 2 nut method, or straight to vise-grips? Are these special nuts reusable?
Mpg has decreased from 26-30 to sub 22. Also will be replacing the gasket just below the exhaust manifold.[/quote][/quote]
I’ll take a video showing the damage so there is no question, after i get out of my college classes today, 12:45pm CST.
[quote=”gorillaarm” post=176879]That’s where my mind was goin as it doesn’t seem to have anything else wrong. What’s concerning to me and kinda confusing is the only first gear part.[/quote]
Could be some oil in the connector, and when you accelerate (first gear = highest acceleration) it might short it out.
Could also just be at that certain RPM.[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=176884]That is a vibration damper.[/quote]
So, is it a good idea to repair it? Or will it be fine?
[quote=”gorillaarm” post=176877]3 weeks ago I replaced my hydraulic lifters in a 2000 dodge stratus v6,everything went great and came together as planned. Drove around for about a week an a half(100 miles) before changing the oil and leaving for a mini road trip. I drove 260 miles on the highway and on my return I got about 270 miles before pulling over when I took off my oil light began to flicker on very faint but it would only do it in first gear under moderatly heavy acceleration. I pulled over oil level was fine. Regrettingly I proceeded with my trip as it was closer than home no other problems. 2 days later drove home (100 miles). I did a “motor flush” from a bottle changed the oil an the problem continues to arise. First gear from a stop it will flicker on until I let off, however I can go full throttle in any other gear and it’s totally fine. I don’t have a oil pressure gauge in the car but is my first thing I want to use but don’t really know where to go from there. The only thing that I can think may have cause this that should have been fixed with the “flush” would be that I used grease to hold the lifters in the rocker arms[/quote]
I don’t think the issue is related to your service. Especially after 270+ miles.
Common issue on the Stratus is the oil pressure sending unit failing. Usually when it fails it will leak oil on to the connection.
Those are fairly cheap, but I would check oil pressure with gauge first. If its good then check your signal from oil pressure sending unit to the instrument panel. If that’s good you can reasonably say the sending unit is bad.[quote=”shaun” post=175285]I would replace the rear main. You never know how much life it has left. Your in there anyway[/quote]
Ok so rear main it is, need a 1/2″ torque wrench, so that is on order (arriving tomorrow).
Need some transmission fluid, and the Exedy clutch came with some grease, I am assuming hi-temp lithium, for the splines. Following ETCG’s vmanual I think I would need some more than that.One quick question which is stuck in my mind: the transmission has really worn syncro’s on first and reverse. Should I get that fixed while it is out? I don’t really have the money (only 50 bucks after clutch and all the tools. etc) to buy a new one.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=175253]”Machine shop flywheel resurfacing normally costs around $80. A mechanic that does regular business may get it for $50, and a high retail/counter price would be $100.”
:pinch: Dannnnng.
Shops around here are cheap.
To cut rotors and drums is usually $10.00 – $15.00[/quote]The prices that I was quoted were actually around $30-$40.
Bought the VManual.
Going to start on Monday afternoon.
