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[kris]

interesting, have a look at this Eric and tell me what you think. Note All rights belong to respected party’s.

edit: could not add a pdf so i used a site.

[kris]

lets say it’s a last ditch effort and its not reading right what would you try?

[kris]

lets say it’s a last ditch effort and its not reading right what would you try?

[kris]

Used car thinking about buying, hear a tick. Thought it was part of a tune up 🙂

[kris]

Used car thinking about buying, hear a tick. Thought it was part of a tune up 🙂

[kris]

Check timing, check plug wires with dmm, check coil with dmm, check cam and crank position sensors can be done with dmm to a point. Most of all check out the asd relay and its circuit. The DOHC crank position sensors pickup likes to melt off in to the oil pan fyi, this throws an intermittent ckp cmp code. The asd circuit is linked to all the ignition timing and fuel stuff if i recall correctly.
I got the book laying around if you need some info. Might take me some time to get it to you tho.

[kris]

Check timing, check plug wires with dmm, check coil with dmm, check cam and crank position sensors can be done with dmm to a point. Most of all check out the asd relay and its circuit. The DOHC crank position sensors pickup likes to melt off in to the oil pan fyi, this throws an intermittent ckp cmp code. The asd circuit is linked to all the ignition timing and fuel stuff if i recall correctly.
I got the book laying around if you need some info. Might take me some time to get it to you tho.

[kris]

I have unbolted just about everything under the hood of a car and replaced it. I have rebuilt starters, alternators and other things. I have done timing belts and chains. I have not ever rebuilt an engine or removed the head(s). I know I have it in me, mechanically speaking to complete such a task. I know what is involved to do it right, checking spec’s, milling the block deck and head, boring the engine etc…

That cost way too much money right now. I just need a junker for my mom to drive around town until I can do something better. This car is not worth another engine based on what I read about the engines for this time frame. I am however willing to gamble with about another $150. I can get a used head from a working car if I go pull it for $65. I can get the gasket kit for $50. I can have the head milled if it’s not flat enough. I know the bearings, rings, and cam may be worn due to water in the oil.

With your experience what do you think the chances are that the block is cracked on this car?
no smoke or steam at exhaust.
no oil in coolant.
no combustion gasses in radiator.
starts easy.
coolant going in to oil.

would it help if I pulled the head and could tell you if the head was warped and gasket bad? or would the chance still be the same?

Thanks for all your time

[kris]

I have unbolted just about everything under the hood of a car and replaced it. I have rebuilt starters, alternators and other things. I have done timing belts and chains. I have not ever rebuilt an engine or removed the head(s). I know I have it in me, mechanically speaking to complete such a task. I know what is involved to do it right, checking spec’s, milling the block deck and head, boring the engine etc…

That cost way too much money right now. I just need a junker for my mom to drive around town until I can do something better. This car is not worth another engine based on what I read about the engines for this time frame. I am however willing to gamble with about another $150. I can get a used head from a working car if I go pull it for $65. I can get the gasket kit for $50. I can have the head milled if it’s not flat enough. I know the bearings, rings, and cam may be worn due to water in the oil.

With your experience what do you think the chances are that the block is cracked on this car?
no smoke or steam at exhaust.
no oil in coolant.
no combustion gasses in radiator.
starts easy.
coolant going in to oil.

would it help if I pulled the head and could tell you if the head was warped and gasket bad? or would the chance still be the same?

Thanks for all your time

[kris]

update grand total of $200 in this car ATM. It has new belts, battery, alternator, tires, radiator and radiator hoses. Can get money back two ways, junk and somebody that want to buy to put new engine in. wanting a cheap running car, but if not away it will go.

Notes This engine is know for bad head gaskets.(edit: other forums nick name is “The head gasket eater”)

I inspected the car and found water in the oil.
There was no oil in the new radiator or old radiator.
The car does not overheat as long as there is coolant/water in the car.
It starts on the first try and runs great.(really, it sounds good, idles fine.)
used block tester and tested for combustion gases in the coolant. It indicated no gases in coolant.
I ran an engine flush and changed the oil, hoping that someone had put something stupid in the oil……..
This car holds ~3 quarts of oil if bone dry. I drained 2 gallons of oil/coolant mix out of the oil pan.
added more oil,drained the oil again.another gallon of oil/water mix…..

Time for some questions
1. The engine has freeze plugs. Theoretical these keep the block from cracking correct?
2. Is there a cheap way to find out if the block is cracked, beyond what I have already done?
3. Will pulling the head make it clear it was the head warped/cracked and gasket,not a crack in the block?
4. The car has 200k. If it needs a head/gasket, should I go used or new/rebuilt? I ask because I heard somewhere that a new head may up the combustion pressure, break old piston rings, and cause a failure.
5. If this engine if fixable, is a new timing chain needed or just a new tensioner? (I heard that only the tension goes bad and not the chain.)
6.would a good cleaning (engine flush + oil pan dropped) and some synthetic oil or something like lucas oil additive keep bearings/rods working? Or do you think this engine is done?

for question # 6 what type of wear would i look for with the oil pan dropped and head off to tell what damage has been done via coolant in oil.

Thanks

[kris]

update grand total of $200 in this car ATM. It has new belts, battery, alternator, tires, radiator and radiator hoses. Can get money back two ways, junk and somebody that want to buy to put new engine in. wanting a cheap running car, but if not away it will go.

Notes This engine is know for bad head gaskets.(edit: other forums nick name is “The head gasket eater”)

I inspected the car and found water in the oil.
There was no oil in the new radiator or old radiator.
The car does not overheat as long as there is coolant/water in the car.
It starts on the first try and runs great.(really, it sounds good, idles fine.)
used block tester and tested for combustion gases in the coolant. It indicated no gases in coolant.
I ran an engine flush and changed the oil, hoping that someone had put something stupid in the oil……..
This car holds ~3 quarts of oil if bone dry. I drained 2 gallons of oil/coolant mix out of the oil pan.
added more oil,drained the oil again.another gallon of oil/water mix…..

Time for some questions
1. The engine has freeze plugs. Theoretical these keep the block from cracking correct?
2. Is there a cheap way to find out if the block is cracked, beyond what I have already done?
3. Will pulling the head make it clear it was the head warped/cracked and gasket,not a crack in the block?
4. The car has 200k. If it needs a head/gasket, should I go used or new/rebuilt? I ask because I heard somewhere that a new head may up the combustion pressure, break old piston rings, and cause a failure.
5. If this engine if fixable, is a new timing chain needed or just a new tensioner? (I heard that only the tension goes bad and not the chain.)
6.would a good cleaning (engine flush + oil pan dropped) and some synthetic oil or something like lucas oil additive keep bearings/rods working? Or do you think this engine is done?

for question # 6 what type of wear would i look for with the oil pan dropped and head off to tell what damage has been done via coolant in oil.

Thanks

[kris]

Thanks for all the input guys. I will give the FCS complete struts a try,you just cant beat them for the price. I found at max 30 different reviews and comments about them. Only two saying they had issues, one was the studs for the mount were bent, and the other was they wore out at only 7.5k.

I will be more than glad to give feed back on the parts if anyone has interest in it. This will be put on my soon to be daily driver. I plan on being around here for a while learning so I can review the build quality and then after some miles come back and update the review.

[kris]

Thanks for all the input guys. I will give the FCS complete struts a try,you just cant beat them for the price. I found at max 30 different reviews and comments about them. Only two saying they had issues, one was the studs for the mount were bent, and the other was they wore out at only 7.5k.

I will be more than glad to give feed back on the parts if anyone has interest in it. This will be put on my soon to be daily driver. I plan on being around here for a while learning so I can review the build quality and then after some miles come back and update the review.

[kris]

Ok so now I am looking for input and answers.
so here are my pricing options on complete units
~ $368 before rebate for all 4 Monroe quick struts (lifetime warranty) rebate(~$100)
~$372 before rebate for making all 4 KYB strut assembly (lifetime warranty) rebate(~$40)
~ $400 before rebate for all 4 KYB quick struts (1 year warranty) rebate(~$40)
~$240 for all 4 FCS quick struts (New company not many reviews, lifetime warranty)
Now for the questions:
what does sagging springs do to the car ride and its components?
This goes with the question above I guess: This car has no rust, not been in a lot of salt if any. The mounts look good, but the rubber coil isolators are bad, would just replacing the struts and bad rubber parts cause issues?
what would new units on the front and old sagging units on the rear do to the car ride and its components?
would new struts on the front using old springs cause issues with the rear old struts and spring??
All the reading I have done told me to go with KYB for non oem struts. Any input on this?
anyone know of the company FCS?

[kris]

Ok so now I am looking for input and answers.
so here are my pricing options on complete units
~ $368 before rebate for all 4 Monroe quick struts (lifetime warranty) rebate(~$100)
~$372 before rebate for making all 4 KYB strut assembly (lifetime warranty) rebate(~$40)
~ $400 before rebate for all 4 KYB quick struts (1 year warranty) rebate(~$40)
~$240 for all 4 FCS quick struts (New company not many reviews, lifetime warranty)
Now for the questions:
what does sagging springs do to the car ride and its components?
This goes with the question above I guess: This car has no rust, not been in a lot of salt if any. The mounts look good, but the rubber coil isolators are bad, would just replacing the struts and bad rubber parts cause issues?
what would new units on the front and old sagging units on the rear do to the car ride and its components?
would new struts on the front using old springs cause issues with the rear old struts and spring??
All the reading I have done told me to go with KYB for non oem struts. Any input on this?
anyone know of the company FCS?

[Author]

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