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[Gareth Randall]

So ideally I really need that weird tool to pop them out?

[Gareth Randall]

Thanks Karl. So it’s fine to leave the new evaporator disconnected (with the lines capped) and let the compressor pulley turn even though the compressor and accumulator won’t be connected to the evap?

I’d been led to believe that if moisture got into the AC system while it was open, it would cause corrosion inside the various components. Is that the case?

[Gareth Randall]

Thanks Karl. So it’s fine to leave the new evaporator disconnected (with the lines capped) and let the compressor pulley turn even though the compressor and accumulator won’t be connected to the evap?

I’d been led to believe that if moisture got into the AC system while it was open, it would cause corrosion inside the various components. Is that the case?

[Gareth Randall]

Cool, thanks. The reason I asked about break-in is that I replaced the lifters as well, and read somewhere that they need to break into the cam.

[Gareth Randall]

Cool, thanks. The reason I asked about break-in is that I replaced the lifters as well, and read somewhere that they need to break into the cam.

[Gareth Randall]

[quote=”grg8888″ post=92377]
I would go with the factory manual procedure. it’s no harder to do it the right way, and the downside is pretty dreadful[/quote]

Sorry, I must have not explained myself very well. I wasn’t questioning the tightening sequence (which is fully laid out in the FSM), I was talking about how you actually tighten each bolt.

Eric’s video shows that he fully tightens each bolt to its stage 1 torque before moving to the next. Then again for stages 2 and 3. My question actually was (before I saw the video), is it OK to do that, or should each bolt only be tightened a couple of turns before moving on to the next? Meaning it could take many passes over each bolt just to get them all to stage 1 torque?

The fact that Eric is shown doing it on an aluminium head pretty much confirms that it’s going to be fine to do that with a cast-iron head 🙂

[Gareth Randall]

[quote=”grg8888″ post=92377]
I would go with the factory manual procedure. it’s no harder to do it the right way, and the downside is pretty dreadful[/quote]

Sorry, I must have not explained myself very well. I wasn’t questioning the tightening sequence (which is fully laid out in the FSM), I was talking about how you actually tighten each bolt.

Eric’s video shows that he fully tightens each bolt to its stage 1 torque before moving to the next. Then again for stages 2 and 3. My question actually was (before I saw the video), is it OK to do that, or should each bolt only be tightened a couple of turns before moving on to the next? Meaning it could take many passes over each bolt just to get them all to stage 1 torque?

The fact that Eric is shown doing it on an aluminium head pretty much confirms that it’s going to be fine to do that with a cast-iron head 🙂

[Gareth Randall]

Thanks guys. I’d heard the tip about pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine for about 10 seconds just to build up oil pressure first. With any luck, everything will go back together this weekend, then it’s crossing fingers and hoping… :unsure:

[Gareth Randall]

Thanks guys. I’d heard the tip about pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine for about 10 seconds just to build up oil pressure first. With any luck, everything will go back together this weekend, then it’s crossing fingers and hoping… :unsure:

[Gareth Randall]

I’ve never done it either. That’s the problem here.

[Gareth Randall]

I’ve never done it either. That’s the problem here.

[Gareth Randall]

Thanks Raistian, I’ll check both of those out B)

[Gareth Randall]

Thanks Raistian, I’ll check both of those out B)

[Gareth Randall]

Raistian77 – the plugs and coil packs were replaced about six months ago. I haven’t tested the wires running from the PCM to the coils.

Thanks for the heads-up about the power balance test, I’ve never heard of that before. But will it necessarily be helpful, given that there’s about 1000 miles between each instance of a misfire code and the engine seems to run smoothly all the time? As I say, I’ve never actually noticed a misfire – if I felt a stumble and the light came on then that’s one thing, but that never happens. The light only ever comes on and stays on at startup, and if I don’t reset it myself it goes away after 40 key cycles, which means that the fault condition hasn’t recurred.

[Gareth Randall]

Raistian77 – the plugs and coil packs were replaced about six months ago. I haven’t tested the wires running from the PCM to the coils.

Thanks for the heads-up about the power balance test, I’ve never heard of that before. But will it necessarily be helpful, given that there’s about 1000 miles between each instance of a misfire code and the engine seems to run smoothly all the time? As I say, I’ve never actually noticed a misfire – if I felt a stumble and the light came on then that’s one thing, but that never happens. The light only ever comes on and stays on at startup, and if I don’t reset it myself it goes away after 40 key cycles, which means that the fault condition hasn’t recurred.

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