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If there’s a possible broken wire, why does the meter reading change when I push the switch to turn the light off? It reads zero volts with the switch off, OL with the switch on. Why not zero volts or OL all the time, regardless of the switch position?
I’m not trying to be argumentative BTW, just trying to learn 🙂
The fuse is fine until you press the brake pedal. Then the brake lights come on for a second, and then the fuse blows.
Are TTY nuts a thing? I thought you only got that in bolts.
TBH, I’d rather not pay $6 per nut from the dealership. Any reason why I couldn’t use generic hardware store nuts at $6 for a bag of 100?
No, those are NOT the tools required.
I already have those tools. The pins are used for setting the engine at TDC and the flat bar is used for locking the camshafts while the belt is removed and while the sprockets are off.
However, the bar CANNOT be used to hold the camshafts while the sprocket bolts are broken loose. The FSM is explicitly clear about this; attempting to use the bar to hold the camshafts still while breaking the torque on the sprocket bolts will result in damage to both the bar and the camshafts. Ditto when you re-torque them.
This is why the camshafts have to be held another way. The FSM says to use a special camshaft sprocket holding tool (which is relatively expensive), but it seems that it’s pretty common to use vice grips on a “safe” part of the shaft.
Would you mind taking the time to read posts properly and be sure of what you’re talking about before you throw around unfounded allegations like “pinching a few bucks” again? Thanks.
As well as the usual range of sockets and ratchets, I’d highly recommend a decent 1/2″ cordless impact. I have the IR W7150, which is a few years old now but is still a powerful professional-level tool that’s significantly cheaper than when I bought mine! It’s never been beaten by anything, including the biggest axle nuts and suspension fasteners on old rusty Jeeps.
Ah, that’s interesting. I’ve already used my electric impact (the 1/2″ Ingersoll Rand W7150, so a pretty beefy one) to tighten the nut until the hub started turning with it. So you reckon that’s now tight enough to drop safely onto the deck for final torquing?
The door problem could be down to a broken wire in the harness where it runs from the body into the door. You’ll have to pull back the boot that covers the wire bundle to check it.
That said, if the door won’t even lock manually, that’s not an electrical problem. The manual door lock control is entirely mechanical and just moves a metal rod that actuates a lever on the latch module. You’ll have to remove the door panel to see what’s going on.
The door lock rods are connected at each end with plastic clips. It’s fairly common for these to break over time, so that might be your problem. Dorman sells replacement clip assortments in its Help! range.
It would indeed be the easiest way, but in this case it doesn’t make economic sense.
The Escape was never popular here in the UK, only being sold between 2001-03. Consequently parts support is poor and the cheapest shaft assembly I can find locally is the equivalent of $180. As for that Cardone shaft from RockAuto, international shipping costs would knock it up from $55 to $140.
If my shaft was clicking, then I’d save the $40 and ship the Cardone one from the States in a heartbeat. But it’s mechanically fine, the only issue is that the inner boot is starting to deteriorate and this was noted as an “advisory” at its last annual inspection (it’s not torn, that would have been a straight fail), and a boot kit is easily obtained (I’ve already got one) for $15.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=185606]
It’s worth noting that the production company (velocity) cited that the technical segments were too difficult to produce cost effectively.[/quote]Maybe they should have asked Attaboy TV how they managed to do it for 12 seasons…
[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=185263]What is the highest torque value of your current wrench?[/quote]
240 Nm, which is about 175 ft/lb.You kind of have to be willing to sign a blank check for this sort of work. If you really want to get your Explorer running with that combination of engine and transmission, then nightflyr’s suggestions are the only way to achieve it, and you need to be prepared to spend. Quality work of that nature requires specialised knowledge, experience and time, and does not come cheap.
After running the car for a week or so, it seems pretty clear that it’s just the fact that it’s an aftermarket alternator. Everything’s working fine, it’s charging the battery normally, but the ECU keeps turning on the battery light.
I’ll just have to live with it. The Escape was never a popular model in the UK, in fact it was only sold for three years (2001-03), so parts support is very poor. I’m not going to find any in junkyards (I’ve called around and not even specialist Ford junkyards have any Escapes) and while my local Ford dealership confirms I could still get a brand-new OEM alternator, it would cost me the equivalent of $600, which is more than half the value of the car at this point.
I strongly suspect I will be pulling the cluster out to see if I can disable the battery light… I think it’s a soldered bulb, not a replaceable one, so we’ll just have to see.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=176706]The theory is correct ..
But a safer method would be to lower the wheels on a solid support ( 4×4 stacks or such )
Then there is no worry of wrenching the bolts while resting on a jack.[/quote]Just to clear up any ambiguity, the vehicle is still being supported by the jackstands under the frame. All the jack is doing is raising the axle (and compressing the springs) to replicate the loading of the wheels being on the ground.
I guess an alternative approach for solid-axle vehicles would be to place the jackstands under the axle tube, which would achieve the same result.