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i didnt see that post earlier for pressure tester kit. It looks like the one at auto zone. however if you notice the tee fitting in that picture it looks the same as the one at auto zone. The problem with auto zone and possibly that one is it is knurled on the end and wont go into the quick disconnect. I guess i could cut the knurl off with hacksaw and then it would fit I hope. I believe my scanner does have an stft and Ltft reading. I will get that and post it. Do these readings check out the throttle body. The symptoms I am having does act like a TPS sensor. A component that I have changed out in several other cars. Thanks for the info I didnt know that it was built into this throttle body, good to know.
i have an actron 9180 – not seeing any codes. no mil light ever. i changed plugs at 100k i now have 175k. This is an intermittent problem which to me means electrical. Probably a sensor. May even be the cvt. Lotta people having problems with tranny on these cars. Checked hoses they seem good. I actually found an adapter on snap on tools however without a picture not sure it will work with autozone fuel pressure tester. Not looking to buy a fuel pressure kit from snap on. Here is something weird I dont understand. Before I realized I needed an adapter. I followed the procedure to remove fuel pressure. I removed the fuse, then i ran the car until it was out of gas, tried to crank it a few times. I did not disconnect battery though although this is a safety feature. When i went to pull fuel line , gas sprayed out like it was never drained of gas. Wonder how that is possible
I went to local auto zone to rent fuel pressure tester. Only problem is it takes a special adapter to hook to Nissan fuel manifold. Where do I find such an adapter.
Thanks for your reply. I finally called Nissan. I hated to do that. There is no separate idle air control valve. The entire throttle body has to be replaced. They said check for vacuum leaks or try cleaning it and then do the relearn. If that doesnt work change throttle body. Nissan price is 700 bucks. Auto zone has them for 125.
I had the same problem with my F150. I bought a brand new scan tool and it would not work. Many years before i was in a collision. The airbag never deployed. To make a long story short there is a fuse in the airbag module that blows which feed the diagnostics connector.. 300 bucks for module and since airbag did not deploy first time i had no confidence in it working again or replacing it. What i did is find the wire on the diagnostic plug that supplies 12v to tester. I ran 12v from battery to that pin. Diag tool now works. I also made it a quick disconnect for whatever reason over a course of weeks it will drain car battery unless you drive it eveyday then its not a problem. so when not using diagnostic tool; unplug the wire. This works on my 1996 f150 been using it that way for 8 years. The fuse in the airbag module can not be replaced and I didnt even try. So I improvised. Truck has quite a few mods on it. Once again this worked for me don’t do this unless you can read a wiring diagram or know someone who can.
If you have never changed an engine before I would leave 6 in. Especially if it runs ok. You will get better mileage in 6. Now if engine blows then its time to swap. Make sure the friends trying to talk you into swapping are available to help. Just installing an engine can be fun. Going with something different even more fun.
Hope I haven’t posted twice. Let me see if I understand. I don’t need to remove lower engine mount just the upper one on passenger side of car. Have to admit it makes me nervous lifting at the oil pan. I will give it a try and let yall know how it goes.
Thanks
Thanks but I have seen this video. Not wanting to rebuild just swap out. I called a couple junkyards they said programming is not necessary. So that is a relief. Thanks for responding. banana: