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Thanks to this video:
I may have just found what my problem was. My end links are extremely rusty and one of them has the boot torn. I’m going to jack the car up tonight and pry on it to see if it makes noise, but I’m pretty sure that’s what it is. I just don’t know why it would make a noise when turning the wheel at a standstill…I hope replacing them both will fix it. I’m going to have to use my Dremel™ to cut them off.
Thanks to this video:
I may have just found what my problem was. My end links are extremely rusty and one of them has the boot torn. I’m going to jack the car up tonight and pry on it to see if it makes noise, but I’m pretty sure that’s what it is. I just don’t know why it would make a noise when turning the wheel at a standstill…I hope replacing them both will fix it. I’m going to have to use my Dremel™ to cut them off.
Maybe you’re right, this video is what it sounds like in the car, but it doesn’t make the noise when standing still. Could it still be the cause do you think?
Maybe you’re right, this video is what it sounds like in the car, but it doesn’t make the noise when standing still. Could it still be the cause do you think?
I cannot feel or notice that it requires any extra effort to move the steering wheel.
It only required about half my body weight to separate the rack from the intermediate shaft. And, of course, any subsequent removals it’ll come off somewhat easy.
When I installed it I made sure that the U-joint clamp bolt was tight, the 4 mounting bolts for the rack were tight and secure, and that the fluid feed/return lines were snug as well. The rack is not leaking anywhere and there is no loss of pressure.
I want to blame the rack, but I find it odd that I would be sent two faulty racks. They’re not remanufactured either, they’re advertised as brand-new.
In that first video I posted the noise seemed to be coming from where the passenger side of the rack meets the inner tie rod. I could hear it louder than the video was portraying.
I cannot feel or notice that it requires any extra effort to move the steering wheel.
It only required about half my body weight to separate the rack from the intermediate shaft. And, of course, any subsequent removals it’ll come off somewhat easy.
When I installed it I made sure that the U-joint clamp bolt was tight, the 4 mounting bolts for the rack were tight and secure, and that the fluid feed/return lines were snug as well. The rack is not leaking anywhere and there is no loss of pressure.
I want to blame the rack, but I find it odd that I would be sent two faulty racks. They’re not remanufactured either, they’re advertised as brand-new.
In that first video I posted the noise seemed to be coming from where the passenger side of the rack meets the inner tie rod. I could hear it louder than the video was portraying.
Got a new throttle body and other miscellaneous things that I broke. Car runs great now! Now I just need to make sure the check engine light doesn’t come on again. These were the codes that came up with my Android app:
[IMG]http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8616/di8j.jpg[/IMG]
Got a new throttle body and other miscellaneous things that I broke. Car runs great now! Now I just need to make sure the check engine light doesn’t come on again. These were the codes that came up with my Android app:
[IMG]http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8616/di8j.jpg[/IMG]
Ok, I re-did all my work and it runs now. However, I ended up breaking a few things. The TB is unresponsive to gas pedal input, so that’ll need to be replaced. I broke a nipple off of a T-splitter for the coolant-to-TB hose and also broke the breather hose. Hopefully replacing all that will make it run like new again.
Ok, I re-did all my work and it runs now. However, I ended up breaking a few things. The TB is unresponsive to gas pedal input, so that’ll need to be replaced. I broke a nipple off of a T-splitter for the coolant-to-TB hose and also broke the breather hose. Hopefully replacing all that will make it run like new again.
She has 4 codes all relating to O2 & misfires. So, that’s why I opted to change out her spark plugs. I erased the check engine light. I’ll have to check it again, but its on regardless because it always comes on when you turn the key to the “ON” position. So I don’t know if there is actually another fault code or not.
She has 4 codes all relating to O2 & misfires. So, that’s why I opted to change out her spark plugs. I erased the check engine light. I’ll have to check it again, but its on regardless because it always comes on when you turn the key to the “ON” position. So I don’t know if there is actually another fault code or not.
