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TRY THIS WEBSITE FOR A WIDE ASSORTMENT OF SS BREAK LINES & GOOD LUCK! http://www.calibex.com/shopping/products?search=Steel-Braided-Brake-Hose
Yes, saw that one, some aftermarket companys use asbestos as a filler,unfortunately. I personally found that ceramic pads worked best on different vehicles that I previously owned, but it also depends on driving practices . When in doubt, though, use the OEM BRAND, designed for that make & model.
Bonnieman; I stumbled on to this site by researching “auto break pad material” & the link was on the explanation from consumer reports, but I’m not a member, sorry about that.
ETCG HAS A VIDEO ON THAT SUBJECT,WHERE SOMETHING IN THE ELECTRIC SYSTEM IS DRAWING SMALL AMOUNTS OF AMPERAGE FROM THE BATTERY WHEN VEHICLE IS NOT USED.A QUICK CHECK TO VERIFY IS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHEN THE VEHICLE IS NOT USED.THEN AFTER A DAY OR TWO REATTACH THE BATTERY & IF IT STARTS,THEN YOU HAVE A (parasitic) ELECTRICAL DRAIN.IF YOU GET THE SAME PROBLEM ,THEN CELLS IN BATTERY DEFECTIVE.
also , all brands of oil are regulated by API & labeled with the certification starburst on the container, ie a mnfg that specifies”sj” grade can be higher as for instance “sn” but not lower than “sj”
start with checking battery cables (if you haven”t already)for insulation cracks,all connections etc. Intermittent electrical problems can be very difficult to solve.as a personal ex: years ago i had an intermittent elec. prob with a ’89 plymouth voyager, after acceleration at times all interior/exterior electricals would fail,and would have to pull over the roadside.then after a few min would be able to start & run normal till next occurance.Took it to dealership,they at first couldn’t duplicate the prob.then one day the tech drove the car & it happened,but it wouldn’t start,so the dealership had to tow it back to the shop & found the prob,which was the main elec. control module.Hope this helps
I would recommend the basics 1st such as check the spark plugs for any sign of fowling & the resistance on the coils according to manfg specs. I would also change the trans fluid/filter if like you said is due.then test performance,then start looking for further issues if needed.
NOTICE “DO NOT ASSUME” EVIDENTLY YOU MISSREAD THE QUESTION. LET ME CLARIFY: I’VE READ MANY COMPLAINTS OF VEHICLES BEING TURNED AWAY FOR NOT HAVING MONITORS READY .IN MANY CASES INSPECTION TECHS MAY TELL YOU TO DRIVE AROUND FOR A HUNDRED MILES & COME BACK. & IF YOU DID HAVE AN EMISSIONS PROBLEM, UNKNOWINGLY,THEN YOU WOULD BE ADDING TO THE POLLUTION PROBLEM. THE NEW TECHNOLOGY MAY BE ABLE TO OVERIDE YOUR VEHICLES MONITOR SYSTEM TO GET A TRUE EMISSION TEST WITHOUT NEEDING A DRIVE CYCLE. YOU CANNOT CHEAT AN INSPECTION IF THE EQUIPMENT THEY ARE USING IS FOR STATE INSPECTIONS! THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX IS WHAT MAKES PROGRESS & NEW TECHNOLOGY
Thanks for your reply. I know even though a code is erased it will still read pending if inspected, but the emissions are what is inspected. I’ve heard that if the inspection station sees the MIL, they may not even bother to take emissions test, but I wasn’t sure if there was a way to erase the MIL WHEN NOT AN EMISSIONS PROBLEM& keep the ready monitors READY. Thanks again for your input