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Gotcha. I read past some of your post. The car was just at the dealer for a trans fluid change. They checked the battery and a couple other things and gave a report of minor things that were wrong. The battery wasn’t on there, but that doesn’t mean anything. The connections are good though. I’ll check that out tonight. I don’t remember the last time it was changed, which means it probably needs to be changed. Thanks again for the help
Gotcha. I read past some of your post. The car was just at the dealer for a trans fluid change. They checked the battery and a couple other things and gave a report of minor things that were wrong. The battery wasn’t on there, but that doesn’t mean anything. The connections are good though. I’ll check that out tonight. I don’t remember the last time it was changed, which means it probably needs to be changed. Thanks again for the help
Thanks Karl, you are a master. Disconnected the battery for while, lights still on, but car was running great. Drove it for a bit, and wow, the lights went off. No check engine, nothing.
Does the computer need a bit of time to reset?
The car is running great. Averaging 31 miles per gallon for a v6.
Thanks again for the expert advise.
SquibThanks Karl, you are a master. Disconnected the battery for while, lights still on, but car was running great. Drove it for a bit, and wow, the lights went off. No check engine, nothing.
Does the computer need a bit of time to reset?
The car is running great. Averaging 31 miles per gallon for a v6.
Thanks again for the expert advise.
SquibOk I got the coil packs changed out. I still have a code P0365 camshaft position sensor bank 1, P0368 which also has to do with the position sensor, and C1201. Where is the camshaft bank 1 position sensor located?
I find it strange that I’m getting all of these codes at once. I didn’t have any check engine lights on until yesterday, now all of this.
Thanks
Laughing about the 5.7, not sure where that came from, it’s the 3.5. Was up for 20hrs when I posted last night.Ok I got the coil packs changed out. I still have a code P0365 camshaft position sensor bank 1, P0368 which also has to do with the position sensor, and C1201. Where is the camshaft bank 1 position sensor located?
I find it strange that I’m getting all of these codes at once. I didn’t have any check engine lights on until yesterday, now all of this.
Thanks
Laughing about the 5.7, not sure where that came from, it’s the 3.5. Was up for 20hrs when I posted last night.I checked the fuse in the same panel as the relay under the hood, it’s good. The A/C does not work on this car, but I did turn it on thinking it would activate the fans, and it doesn’t. That’s why I’m perplexed. I’ve researched this problem on many boards, and have tried to rule out different things, but I’m at a loss at this point.
Thanks for the replyI checked the fuse in the same panel as the relay under the hood, it’s good. The A/C does not work on this car, but I did turn it on thinking it would activate the fans, and it doesn’t. That’s why I’m perplexed. I’ve researched this problem on many boards, and have tried to rule out different things, but I’m at a loss at this point.
Thanks for the replyEverything is hooked up correctly. The battery cables don’t reach if you put it in backwards. When I looked at Eric’s video on relays it has to be a fried relay. It was making a steady clicking noise when I hooked the battery up. I don’t have a power probe so I’ll have to hook it up the other way to test.
Everything is hooked up correctly. The battery cables don’t reach if you put it in backwards. When I looked at Eric’s video on relays it has to be a fried relay. It was making a steady clicking noise when I hooked the battery up. I don’t have a power probe so I’ll have to hook it up the other way to test.
Changed out the VCT solenoids today and still a problem. I went for a ride with him and in the beginning no problems. Then after the engine came up to temp, the rough idle started again. It’s intermittent. He also stated that when he’s on the interstate he has to shift out of overdrive for the engine to quit running rough. Another thing is if the truck is at or above 2000 rpm, no problems. The rough idle almost sounds like a knocking of some type.
Here is the work that’s been done so far. Cleaned mass airflow sensor, cleaned throttle body, changed vct solenoids, changed cam positioning sensors, checked for voltage leaks.
Looking on the net I see a large amount of people with the same issues as this, but no real solutions other than what has been tried above.. The threads just die. I was hoping I could find a Ford mechanic on this site that’s seen this issue and knows how to repair it. Now I haven’t done a vac test on it yet, so I think that’s next. Also would a fuel filter cause this as an intermittent problem, or spark plugs. I was thinking that with plugs or a bad fuel filter that this would cause problems from the first minute the engine was fired, not after it’s warmed up.
This site has been a great help on many of my projects and I appreciate all the helpThe correct viscosity of oil is being used. He also ran another check for the codes. The first is P0340 . The readout states that the cam positioning sensor is bad or wiring is bad. Those have already been replaced. The second is 0012, cam timing over retarded-bank1 Cause, 1 -cam timing incorrect 2- vct solenoid stuck open. The VCT solenoids on both sides have been replaced with genuine Ford parts. After the solenoids were replaced he pulled the battery cables and reset the computer. It drove fine for about 15 minutes. Had great pickup and sounded like it was running well. After it fully warmed up it started to run rough and was knocking really loud. It doesn’t continue all the time. When the vehicle slows down then it starts to sputter and knock, but like I said only intermittently.
If it were a timing chain issue, wouldn’t it start off running rough?As i’ve been reading about this year of pickup, it seems there are lots of people that have this very same issue. Not getting to many solutions though. It seems it goes from bad coil packs to a vct valve.
I installed a radiator in a 96 accord and if I’m not mistaken it was pretty reasonable. Just a bit of time. If it’s leaking there them I’m sure that means it’s junk.