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I’m taking it that you have fitted a new coil and not a second hand part as you might have swapped bad for bad.
The igniter units are available on eBay quite cheaply so another cheap fix and you know how to do it if you have watched the vids.
You can remove the plug leads one at a time as the car is idling and see if each one makes a difference to the way the car runs if three of them make the car run even rougher and one makes no difference you have found the bad plug.
Don’t go to changing the whole distributer until you have exhausted all the other options and then if you go for used parts your always taking a chance that it might not be any better than what you have taken offGlad to see you’ve had a go sorry to hear it wasn’t a fix changing the igniter would be the next logical step not sure what the cost is for that but first are your spark plugs in good order and when you took the dissy cap of did you inspect the edge of the rotor arm and the contacts they can get a build up on them from the spark jumping from the rotor arm.It sounds to me like you might have a bad plug .
The EVAP canister is mounted on the engine bulkhead on my car it’s on the left as you look at the car from the front but on yours it might be on the other side if your left hand drive ,it’s a black plastic canister slightly larger than a can of beans with two rubber tubes attached to the top,one slightly bigger than the other and another larger drain pipe coming out the bottom,an easy way to test if there is a problem with the system is to put a couple of plastic hose clamp on the two top pipes and see if it makes a difference to the.cars running but I doubt it will but obviously if it sorts the problem you now there is a fault in that system .all the EVAP canister does is store fuel gasses from the petrol tank until the purge valve opens (also mounted on the bulkhead )and they are sucked into the engine and burnt if you clamp the two pipes as said before and leave the fuel cap a little lose you have cut out the system , which brings me to a point that as the fuel system is normally a sealed system if you are runnning with the wrong filler cap on or just some bung shoved in this would probably upset the whole system so check that it is the correct fuel cap that when you turn it in it starts to click when it’s sealed.
Hope this helps[quote=”rustymoto” post=200285]mot a huge mechanic myself but maybe got some ideas to throw at you. how is it stalling, possible over heating ? just because they said they topped off the coolant doesnt mean squat unless they have burped the system properly so that the coolant is truly running through the system without airbubbles. if thats good, maybe your thermostat needs to be replaced, super cheap. notice your fan kicking on way too soon or anything with overheating symptoms. second, like the last guy said, possible bad ignition module. but i still dont see how a missfire could completely kill the power. again you haven’t described how it dies on you. maybe a bad ground, or simply a battery going out. again i honestly have no experience on that car in particular, but i hope these suggestions help you get back on the road. since your doing delivery, my guess might be on the cooling system..[/quote]
You don’t just get a misfire you can get a total shut down mine went a 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway (freeway) not much fun
I have just been on you tube and typed in Honda integra ignition coil and up comes ETCG 1’s vid on how to do it there are others as well you should only need to do the first part of this where he takes out the coil and then you put a new one in and put it back together.
Been on eBay and in the UK at least they are still available for £16 and £24 for a quality NGK item so I would think they should be available in the US for similar money.
It really is very easy to do so have a go yourselfI don’t know if it would throw a code or not all I know is that the the fault can be intermittent when the coil heats up it goes faulty when it cools down it can work again like I said before it’s a dirt cheap fix that any one with a little common sense can do and there are even videos on you tube to show you how in fact I do believe that ETCG 1 has done one himself on the subject on his own integra so for what it cost to change it I would just get it done and see if it fixes your problem before going down the other very expensive route of getting some mechanic to start looking at all your sensors
The only time my integra let me down and stalled and would not restart it was down to the ignition coil in the distributor failing,a very easy fix and cheap to buy on eBay cost about £15 for the part .I found out from the tow guy it was a common problem and about the only thing that ever went wrong with them he said at one time they always. Carried a couple with them .
A bit surprised no one has been able to sort it for you,hope this helpsWell that was very short lived, took the car for a short run on urban roads and the charcoal canister started dripping fuel again and stinking
I can’t figure how this system is supposed to work as there seems to be only one purge solenoid on the bulkhead and no vent solenoid anywhere, I’m not sure what activates the purge solenoid
The fuel pipes seem to be not as you woul expect,the pressure fuel feed and the return both go to the top of the tank but the vent pipe running to the canister comes out halfway down the tank and goes through a small plastic two way valve with no electrical connections which to me doesn’t make sense if it is supposed to vent fumes surely it should come out of the top of the tank and not half way down .
I was hoping Eric could help me on this one as you have the same car although maybe American cars might have a completely different system on themWell it seems the gremlin that has been having fun In my car has decided to go play elsewhere as after repeating the procedures I have tried before to sort the problem without success,which I believe is the definition of lunacy I took the car for another test run and it ran faultlessly no smells no misfires just perfect smooth running and when I got home and checked for fuel coming out the charcoal canister it was perfectly dry so alls well that ends well I suppose just hope the gremlin doesn’t return
Thanks yes an easy fix and it only took about 20 mins to do it was just a thought and hoped it might help,another problem I once had with an alfa with a boxter engine was that there was a rubber coolant pipe that ran along the top of the block underneath the inlet manifolds that engine vibrations rubbed a minute hole in that leaked when hot and pressurised that caused coolant loss but was hard to fin as the leak was straight on to a hot engine block and simply evaperated off
In all this searching for an answer the water pump has never come into it I had ridiculous issues with temps and cabin heating issues and my local garage advised that sometimes the plastic impellar on the pump can slip on the shaft when hot causing all sorts of problems it was a jag v8 so completely different I know but you never know I fitted a new pump and everything was sorted
Another great video Eric,in fact the only time my integra let me down was when the coil pack failed while driving on a motorway (freeway) luckily my son was with me and he had his mobile with him I had left mine at home we phoned the AA (Recovery company) who turned up quite quickly and basically new what the problem would be right away he said they used to always carry a few coil packs on their vehicles but had stopped doing it some time ago,luckily we weren’t far from home so he towed be home and I got one of the cheaper packs you talk about on eBay job sorted, didn’t know about the igniter though so more great info thanks
Tegranut
All great information to have at your disposal when tackling these jobs this vid answers a lot of problems I have encountered when doing this work GREAT VIDEO Eric and GREAT after posts too
As I intend to do a timing belt renewal on my 98 integra Type R 118,000 miles and renew the water pump at the same time this subject is of great interest to me after searching the webb for advise I have found videos of people struggling with 10ft long scaffold bars trying to break the lock on these bolts and others that seem to just fly past this part without a mention to the difficulty there can some times be.I have seen the use of specially weighted sockets that multiply the action of the impact guns and make the job much easier.I have a pulley locking tool that a friend that had the same car once gave me and he said the hardest part of the whole job was undoing that bolt.I do not have an impact gun at the moment but am seriously considering getting one,what is your take on electric over air on these and would a small DIY air compressor with small tank and 118 psi max operate one of these guns
thanks in antisipation TegranutI have sprayed a lot of the pipe junctions with soapy water and found a couple of leaks so far,one as the pipe connects to the collector/drier and two on the compressor,one where there seems to be a small hole at the back of the compressor and another on what appears to be where the body itself joins together just behind the main pulley wheel,these seem to be very small leaks and I am wondering if I purge and vacuum the system and then put some refrigerant and oil in then run it if these leaks might seal themselves when the oil gets to the various seals and cause them to expand.I haven’t taken the front bumper off yet to see if there are any leaks around the condensor