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Update: confirmed bad cap on the board.
current plan is to find an ECU with matching numbers (TOYOTA 89661-50303).Do I need to match the numbers below it as well? (175000-8780 12V, shown in picture).
Hey karl, if you’re still monitoring this thread, I’ve got another electrical issue apparently. I’ve had pretty bad random missfires since I got this car (maybe 4-5 days no), had it into a shop today because it was driving me nuts and I couldn’t figure out what it was.
Guy says the #4 and 6 injectors are stuck open, and the ECU is sending them a constant open signal or something of the like. Recommended replacing it.
Now, I literally just got home and am going to start research now but could you field some questions for me?
1. Will any ECU from a same year LS400 do, or is the situation more complicated than that?
2. was going to ask if I had found the unit underneath the steerig wheel, but a little research and googling the part number on it shows it’s something about mpx body control, whatever that is.3.are the cheap (well, $65 ) rebuild ebay services like this a good idea?
4. is this is a common issue? I’m going off this thread http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html claiming it is.have it pulled now, going to open it up and see if there’s anything obvious.
also advance said the battery was k, just needed to charge for a bit.
Alright, I’m gonig to make a long winded post on all that was fucked up underneath the steering wheel and how I thought of looking under there in the first place, but right now I’m tired and relieved it’s working, so I’ll just post this picture, should explain enough of what the problem was.
http://www.avital.com/
goddamn aftermarket alarmsNot even Lexus’ fault lol
Huh, didn’t know 12.2 was bad. Going to head to advance with a friend and get a new one or at least have the old one tested, old one is an AC delco but looks at least 4 years old.
would having the battery at 50% charge affect their testing machine or can it still tell if the battery is good?
also checked fuses, only ones that looked suspicious I took pictures of.
Hey Karl, yeah I really am a bane to these things.
battery reads 12.25v…I also had a neighbor come over and we tried to jump it, no luck. terminals did have some corrosion on them, cleaned with a toothbrush to make sure it had good contact.
given i’ve been at this all day I wouldn’t be that surprised to find out it’s kinda low on charge by this point.
I would not immediately go looking for a short in the same place I had it. Rather use that thread (and more specifically the diagnostics he recommended) to find the fault.
I had to go around checking continuity and voltage at various points, and the AFRHTR relay.
there could be faults anywhere in it, diagnostics by checking continuity can help determine where.
>battery and fuse
>fuse and relay (good luck with that lel)
>relay and HTR
>or even a problem in the ECM that controls the HTR circuit.Don’t worry to much about not being into electrical stuff, i wasn’t really but IIRC in the thread the guy was pretty helpful in describing what I needed to do. You can also hit up youtube and search stuff like “how to test continuity with a multimeter”. Lastly if you need a multimeter and need it today, hit up radioshack and grab their cheapest one with a continuity tester (also tell them you’re a student and ask for the 10% discount).
I would not immediately go looking for a short in the same place I had it. Rather use that thread (and more specifically the diagnostics he recommended) to find the fault.
I had to go around checking continuity and voltage at various points, and the AFRHTR relay.
there could be faults anywhere in it, diagnostics by checking continuity can help determine where.
>battery and fuse
>fuse and relay (good luck with that lel)
>relay and HTR
>or even a problem in the ECM that controls the HTR circuit.Don’t worry to much about not being into electrical stuff, i wasn’t really but IIRC in the thread the guy was pretty helpful in describing what I needed to do. You can also hit up youtube and search stuff like “how to test continuity with a multimeter”. Lastly if you need a multimeter and need it today, hit up radioshack and grab their cheapest one with a continuity tester (also tell them you’re a student and ask for the 10% discount).
Not entirely sure how helpful this will be but I went through a similar problem that actually was resolved on here:
The end problem turned out to be a short in the AFR heater circuit from the fuse to the battery.
Not a mechanic but hopefully some of the diagnostics gone over in the thread I linked can help.
Not entirely sure how helpful this will be but I went through a similar problem that actually was resolved on here:
The end problem turned out to be a short in the AFR heater circuit from the fuse to the battery.
Not a mechanic but hopefully some of the diagnostics gone over in the thread I linked can help.
Yeah I was kind of losing my mind a little bit near the end, tracing a mass of wires knowing that you could be going in the entirely wrong direction doesn’t do a man’s sanity any good lol.
all paid off though, and yeah I’ll get down to work and pick up some thicker wire for a less …fire prone solution.
car still stutters at idle(well it has since I got it), but that’s another thread for another time :p
thanks again.
Yeah I was kind of losing my mind a little bit near the end, tracing a mass of wires knowing that you could be going in the entirely wrong direction doesn’t do a man’s sanity any good lol.
all paid off though, and yeah I’ll get down to work and pick up some thicker wire for a less …fire prone solution.
car still stutters at idle(well it has since I got it), but that’s another thread for another time :p
thanks again.
and finally
I just want to say HUGE thanks to you Karl, I wouldn’t have gotten even halfway here without your help (or without spending a lot of money that I don’t have in the first place lol).
Also, if anyone happens to need a pair of 14 year old (but completely functional, apparently) Denso AFR sensors, I do seem to now have a spare pair, seeing as how I bought two new ones at the start of all this fun.
I’d be more than happy to mail them out to anyone that needs one.
and finally
I just want to say HUGE thanks to you Karl, I wouldn’t have gotten even halfway here without your help (or without spending a lot of money that I don’t have in the first place lol).
Also, if anyone happens to need a pair of 14 year old (but completely functional, apparently) Denso AFR sensors, I do seem to now have a spare pair, seeing as how I bought two new ones at the start of all this fun.
I’d be more than happy to mail them out to anyone that needs one.
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