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Both of us went to GMI together (you now know it as Kettering University) and were in the same pledge class at the same fraternity (Theta Xi). I think my book (has all the frat brothers names/phone numbers/addresses) is back at my parent’s, and besides, I know he’s changed phone numbers.
Both of us went to GMI together (you now know it as Kettering University) and were in the same pledge class at the same fraternity (Theta Xi). I think my book (has all the frat brothers names/phone numbers/addresses) is back at my parent’s, and besides, I know he’s changed phone numbers.
A fella I know one time left the diag tool in the vehicle (dunno how that happened … but we all know a SnapOn M2500 isn’t exactly what you would call a cheap tool). Either way, the customer found out later that day, returned it back to him. 🙂 Needless to say he was quite thankful, and then went out and cancelled the order for a new one from SnapOn.
A fella I know one time left the diag tool in the vehicle (dunno how that happened … but we all know a SnapOn M2500 isn’t exactly what you would call a cheap tool). Either way, the customer found out later that day, returned it back to him. 🙂 Needless to say he was quite thankful, and then went out and cancelled the order for a new one from SnapOn.
As I said, there’s exceptions. Oh, with the MX6 (and it’s cousins, the 626 and Probe) beware of the ford transmission. It’s the 4-speed auto they put in them, known to detonate after 100k, we call them ticking time bombs. The 5 speed will hold up to factory power no problem, but those auto’s … just never should’ve gotten off the drawing boards (they needed a better auto trans).
As I said, there’s exceptions. Oh, with the MX6 (and it’s cousins, the 626 and Probe) beware of the ford transmission. It’s the 4-speed auto they put in them, known to detonate after 100k, we call them ticking time bombs. The 5 speed will hold up to factory power no problem, but those auto’s … just never should’ve gotten off the drawing boards (they needed a better auto trans).
Going to Mott? Do you know a Matt Fittante, he’s in welding right now, I believe, if so, say hi to him for me, and tell him I’ll try and meet with another guy he knows to have this guy bring him the classic plate I offered him (it’s an original plate from a Vietnam War Jeep – B3039 is the plate number – and he has a Vietnam War Jeep that he’s restoring, so I told him he could have it for free as long as he owns that vehicle).
Going to Mott? Do you know a Matt Fittante, he’s in welding right now, I believe, if so, say hi to him for me, and tell him I’ll try and meet with another guy he knows to have this guy bring him the classic plate I offered him (it’s an original plate from a Vietnam War Jeep – B3039 is the plate number – and he has a Vietnam War Jeep that he’s restoring, so I told him he could have it for free as long as he owns that vehicle).
I got REALLY lucky … and I know a decent amount about cars, so I really went over that car with a fine-tooth comb before I bought it anyways (and although I abused it, I did so “carefully” and didn’t overdo anything; any car can break in 100 miles, only with skill – and luck – can you get 100 thousand miles). And, as I said, I bought one of the millions that they built, so no guarantees that any others will be as good, I just got lucky partially, and also, took good care of it, did the maintenance it needed, etc.
Remember the old rule – PERFORMANCE (or RELIABILITY), LUXURY, PRICE. PICK TWO. That’s really all you can do, you get what you pay for, and some people get better “deals” than others, but really, you can’t pick all three and expect it. Good luck to ya.
I got REALLY lucky … and I know a decent amount about cars, so I really went over that car with a fine-tooth comb before I bought it anyways (and although I abused it, I did so “carefully” and didn’t overdo anything; any car can break in 100 miles, only with skill – and luck – can you get 100 thousand miles). And, as I said, I bought one of the millions that they built, so no guarantees that any others will be as good, I just got lucky partially, and also, took good care of it, did the maintenance it needed, etc.
Remember the old rule – PERFORMANCE (or RELIABILITY), LUXURY, PRICE. PICK TWO. That’s really all you can do, you get what you pay for, and some people get better “deals” than others, but really, you can’t pick all three and expect it. Good luck to ya.
I see that all the time, carfax, although good, isn’t perfect. I had the prior owner on my Firehawk show me service records, or something, showing he owned the car prior to 2001, since he called it a single-owner, but carfax showed one owner in PA and one in MD (where he was). He showed me it the next day (and I did buy it), turns out when he moved across state lines, CarFax called up a “new owner”. Heck, my 2011 Chevy Cruze eco, because I moved from apartment to apartment since buying it (now own a house and won’t move again) shows as a 8-owner car! And I know I bought it with 23 miles on it, so that seems a little odd … lol. I moved 8 times, 7 between apartments, then bought my house, and it just kept calling my new registration address a “new owner”. Also, I am recording all my oil changes, since I do my own, and CarFAX reports no maintenance at a shop as a vehicle “not being properly maintained”. It’s good, but only if you know how to use it.
It is a great tool, useful in catching lies (i.e. dealer claimed “no accidents/clean history” on a 1997 Toyota Tacoma, I crawled under and noticed the frame looked a little … err … odd, i.e. welds and such that I don’t think Toyota would do to a brand new truck, CarFAX showed a collision with airbags and frame damage about 2 months prior). But, you also have to learn to take it all “with a grain of salt”, and learn what some of it’s history might actually mean.
I see that all the time, carfax, although good, isn’t perfect. I had the prior owner on my Firehawk show me service records, or something, showing he owned the car prior to 2001, since he called it a single-owner, but carfax showed one owner in PA and one in MD (where he was). He showed me it the next day (and I did buy it), turns out when he moved across state lines, CarFax called up a “new owner”. Heck, my 2011 Chevy Cruze eco, because I moved from apartment to apartment since buying it (now own a house and won’t move again) shows as a 8-owner car! And I know I bought it with 23 miles on it, so that seems a little odd … lol. I moved 8 times, 7 between apartments, then bought my house, and it just kept calling my new registration address a “new owner”. Also, I am recording all my oil changes, since I do my own, and CarFAX reports no maintenance at a shop as a vehicle “not being properly maintained”. It’s good, but only if you know how to use it.
It is a great tool, useful in catching lies (i.e. dealer claimed “no accidents/clean history” on a 1997 Toyota Tacoma, I crawled under and noticed the frame looked a little … err … odd, i.e. welds and such that I don’t think Toyota would do to a brand new truck, CarFAX showed a collision with airbags and frame damage about 2 months prior). But, you also have to learn to take it all “with a grain of salt”, and learn what some of it’s history might actually mean.
Older nissans have always, in my experience anyways (granted, very few out here, and so my view might be skewed anyways) been rather unreliable cars. My old Mazda was quite nice – MX6 I bought at 165k, drove it to 255k, raced it on autocrosses and drag racing (won points twice, went to regionals a few times, went to SCCA Nat’s in KS I believe it was, back in 2008) and although it might have been an exception, the worst that happened was I broke an anti-roll bar (in 2 places … figure that one out) and the idle air pump (controls idle) broke. Otherwise, no work for 90k miles, after 165k already on the engine/trans/other hard parts, and I really wasn’t “easy” on this car. Even learned to drive standard in that thing. I found it a nice, car, granted, not today’s gas-sipping standards (my 1995 trans am got 28 hwy and 315hp to it’s 35hwy and 14xhp – even my 2011 cruze-eco gets 46hwy and same hp) but for the time, quite a nice car. Not nearly big enough for me, I wish I never sold it, though, and just modified it so I could fit, but it was getting old anyways, and pretty soon it’d need a clean-up and new interior (it was ripped/torn), but I love ’em. Cheap, too, if you can still find one.
Older nissans have always, in my experience anyways (granted, very few out here, and so my view might be skewed anyways) been rather unreliable cars. My old Mazda was quite nice – MX6 I bought at 165k, drove it to 255k, raced it on autocrosses and drag racing (won points twice, went to regionals a few times, went to SCCA Nat’s in KS I believe it was, back in 2008) and although it might have been an exception, the worst that happened was I broke an anti-roll bar (in 2 places … figure that one out) and the idle air pump (controls idle) broke. Otherwise, no work for 90k miles, after 165k already on the engine/trans/other hard parts, and I really wasn’t “easy” on this car. Even learned to drive standard in that thing. I found it a nice, car, granted, not today’s gas-sipping standards (my 1995 trans am got 28 hwy and 315hp to it’s 35hwy and 14xhp – even my 2011 cruze-eco gets 46hwy and same hp) but for the time, quite a nice car. Not nearly big enough for me, I wish I never sold it, though, and just modified it so I could fit, but it was getting old anyways, and pretty soon it’d need a clean-up and new interior (it was ripped/torn), but I love ’em. Cheap, too, if you can still find one.