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I always follow the German Engineering torque spec of Gutentite (pronounced good-and-tight) for those. Basically, torque it on until you think it seals, crawl out, add oil, run engine, check oil level, then rev the engine several times and crawl under to make sure nothing’s leaking. You really don’t want to overtorque it (see: don’t damage those threads). Should be tight enough to seal while being loose enough to remove after 3k, 5k, 15k, or however often you change the oil. Good luck!
– Jake R.
EDIT> btw – maybe check after a couple drives, park someplace you know the ground is devoid of oil, then come back and check to make sure oil isn’t leaking. I find it’s about 50% torque spec, and 50% experience. i.e. with my Cruze, I torque with my 1/4″ craftsman until I have to start putting a little muscle into it (a year on an oil rig will do that to you… lol). The old diesel truck I had? I’d torque until I had to put the same amount of muscle on a 3/8″ craftsman (it ran much higher oil pressures, and just seemed to like to leak around that oil filter anyways). I couldn’t really tell you a torque spec, just that those seem to keep oil loss to less than 1/16 of a quart per 3k miles on those vehicles.
I’ve heard nothing but good thing from the drivers of those wretched machines at AutoCross meets (I drove an MX-6 in G-Stock, the Mini’s took over GS when they entered it). I’d say they’re good cars personally, from what I’ve heard anyways (maybe talk to an actual owner first). Like anything else built today, take good care of them, routine maintenance and what not, and they’ll take good care of you 99/100 times.
I’ve heard nothing but good thing from the drivers of those wretched machines at AutoCross meets (I drove an MX-6 in G-Stock, the Mini’s took over GS when they entered it). I’d say they’re good cars personally, from what I’ve heard anyways (maybe talk to an actual owner first). Like anything else built today, take good care of them, routine maintenance and what not, and they’ll take good care of you 99/100 times.
Umm … no. Easier/safer “temp” fix would be to get some adhesive/plugging material, and simply patch where it is leaking (what is that infomercial where they spray a pickup with that stuff, and then float it around a lake like a boat?) Either way, that would actually maintain most of the safe operation of the braking system. I would never recommend actually plugging a brake line, either out or return. Keep in mind, if you don’t plug both ends, it is a pressurized system, you’ll lose your brake fluid either way. Another option would be what I did to limp a friend’s truck to my house, I rode under the propped-open hood the quarter-mile (this is out in the sticks remember, so we really didn’t need to stop much … no stop signs/signals/etc. in sight) and I just poured water in the brake fluid reservoir as fast as it was flooding out a gaping hole in the booster. Yes, water isn’t “safe” for the lines, but we then purged the whole system, installed a new booster (err … junkyard new, it worked though) and poured in fresh brake fluid. Yes, water isn’t the best (it’ll boil for one) but if you are losing a quart a second, it’ll do in a pinch until you can fix it.
I know what you’re saying, but I’d sooner duct tape it than try that. Or, brake lines cost what, $5 at the local store? Buy any random brake line, or even rubber hose, fit over, use that. It’ll leak, but dangit, I wouldn’t deactivate a single brake. Just saying… I know what you’re saying, but I wouldn’t want to have someone’s death on my conscience because they followed advice to damage their brake system. Heck, you’re talking about using solder, solder around the darn hole and do that. Or pour in water into a jug, duct tape jug over brake fluid reservoir, if you’re gonna “red-green” it.
– Jake R.
Umm … no. Easier/safer “temp” fix would be to get some adhesive/plugging material, and simply patch where it is leaking (what is that infomercial where they spray a pickup with that stuff, and then float it around a lake like a boat?) Either way, that would actually maintain most of the safe operation of the braking system. I would never recommend actually plugging a brake line, either out or return. Keep in mind, if you don’t plug both ends, it is a pressurized system, you’ll lose your brake fluid either way. Another option would be what I did to limp a friend’s truck to my house, I rode under the propped-open hood the quarter-mile (this is out in the sticks remember, so we really didn’t need to stop much … no stop signs/signals/etc. in sight) and I just poured water in the brake fluid reservoir as fast as it was flooding out a gaping hole in the booster. Yes, water isn’t “safe” for the lines, but we then purged the whole system, installed a new booster (err … junkyard new, it worked though) and poured in fresh brake fluid. Yes, water isn’t the best (it’ll boil for one) but if you are losing a quart a second, it’ll do in a pinch until you can fix it.
I know what you’re saying, but I’d sooner duct tape it than try that. Or, brake lines cost what, $5 at the local store? Buy any random brake line, or even rubber hose, fit over, use that. It’ll leak, but dangit, I wouldn’t deactivate a single brake. Just saying… I know what you’re saying, but I wouldn’t want to have someone’s death on my conscience because they followed advice to damage their brake system. Heck, you’re talking about using solder, solder around the darn hole and do that. Or pour in water into a jug, duct tape jug over brake fluid reservoir, if you’re gonna “red-green” it.
– Jake R.
My favorites? Well, let’s see … I do like my air impact, the quickee ramps make projects a thousand times easier now (do a lot of oil changes for people, don’t have/work at a shop, so I just have them pull out front, get the ramps out, 10 seconds the car’s up and secure, I’m under there working). But, I’d have to say my favorite was a little ratchet I had a friend of mine fabricate (that somebody ripped off of me when they stole the toolbox from my truck while I helped them fix a vehicle side of the road). It’s just a regular ratchet with a craftsman ratchet mechanism, but we stuck a 3/8″ square drive socket on the end of the handle, so if you need a longer handle or to reach somewhere odd, you just add the extensions and universal joints to the end of it. Sounds stupid, but I hated using those universal joints until I figured out to put the ratchet first, then the universal joint, a lot less cumbersome that way. I wish some company built them, took him 2 weeks to build me one, not gonna ask him to do it again, but dangit, that was one versatile tool.
My favorites? Well, let’s see … I do like my air impact, the quickee ramps make projects a thousand times easier now (do a lot of oil changes for people, don’t have/work at a shop, so I just have them pull out front, get the ramps out, 10 seconds the car’s up and secure, I’m under there working). But, I’d have to say my favorite was a little ratchet I had a friend of mine fabricate (that somebody ripped off of me when they stole the toolbox from my truck while I helped them fix a vehicle side of the road). It’s just a regular ratchet with a craftsman ratchet mechanism, but we stuck a 3/8″ square drive socket on the end of the handle, so if you need a longer handle or to reach somewhere odd, you just add the extensions and universal joints to the end of it. Sounds stupid, but I hated using those universal joints until I figured out to put the ratchet first, then the universal joint, a lot less cumbersome that way. I wish some company built them, took him 2 weeks to build me one, not gonna ask him to do it again, but dangit, that was one versatile tool.
I’ve done a couple of the intake gaskets on those V6’s. I’ll have a friend of mine forward me the step-by-step we used, got it pretty straight-forward for us, and took us a day and a half. I’d recommend, before you start, going to a junkyard or somewhere and pull a bunch of those fuel injector clips, we lost a couple doing the overhaul, and the only place that had them was the dealer, for $20 apiece, and 2 weeks shipping. PITA, we had to fabricate them, and that added 2-3 hours easy, plus we spent a good 4 hours or so searching for them Saturday (nobody had them – NAPA, Advance, Autozone, dealers, Federated Auto Parts, etc.)
Pretty straight forward job, you’ll need a crows foot, and a ratchet wrench, to get that one bolt hole on the passenger side intake on there, torqued to spec, and nothing but a crows foot will fit in there. Also, you’ll probably want a long-handle thin socket driver so you can manually turn the crankshaft (finding TDC is fun). And a few cans of PB blaster just to clean everything while you’re in there (might as well).
I’ve done a couple of the intake gaskets on those V6’s. I’ll have a friend of mine forward me the step-by-step we used, got it pretty straight-forward for us, and took us a day and a half. I’d recommend, before you start, going to a junkyard or somewhere and pull a bunch of those fuel injector clips, we lost a couple doing the overhaul, and the only place that had them was the dealer, for $20 apiece, and 2 weeks shipping. PITA, we had to fabricate them, and that added 2-3 hours easy, plus we spent a good 4 hours or so searching for them Saturday (nobody had them – NAPA, Advance, Autozone, dealers, Federated Auto Parts, etc.)
Pretty straight forward job, you’ll need a crows foot, and a ratchet wrench, to get that one bolt hole on the passenger side intake on there, torqued to spec, and nothing but a crows foot will fit in there. Also, you’ll probably want a long-handle thin socket driver so you can manually turn the crankshaft (finding TDC is fun). And a few cans of PB blaster just to clean everything while you’re in there (might as well).
Now, this could be the same issue I had with the Toyota after I nailed that tree, where it bent up a bit of the wheel well, and when I took it up Mt. Tabor road to another fire, cutting around a sharp turn, the tire would rub against the inner wheel well and it’d really get choppy. That’s just one idea. As I picked up speed, it’d smooth out (or I just didn’t notice it much) but sharp turns cutting the wheel hard, it’d rub, and I just picked up my hammer, punched it back out, and hit the road. What setup are you running on this Cherokee (had one myself a while back, 1996 4.0 slant-6 with 4-speed auto and 4x4h/l on both, 3″ lift, supercharged, on 41’s running cut-out fenders with the TJ front and rear fenderwells, and a 6-ton ramsey electric and blue/gold paint with the WV wing on the hood). Yeah, I’ve owned enough cars to where I’ve visited some friends 20 or 30 times and took a different vehicle each time (I get bored and sell it, buy another).
Now, this could be the same issue I had with the Toyota after I nailed that tree, where it bent up a bit of the wheel well, and when I took it up Mt. Tabor road to another fire, cutting around a sharp turn, the tire would rub against the inner wheel well and it’d really get choppy. That’s just one idea. As I picked up speed, it’d smooth out (or I just didn’t notice it much) but sharp turns cutting the wheel hard, it’d rub, and I just picked up my hammer, punched it back out, and hit the road. What setup are you running on this Cherokee (had one myself a while back, 1996 4.0 slant-6 with 4-speed auto and 4x4h/l on both, 3″ lift, supercharged, on 41’s running cut-out fenders with the TJ front and rear fenderwells, and a 6-ton ramsey electric and blue/gold paint with the WV wing on the hood). Yeah, I’ve owned enough cars to where I’ve visited some friends 20 or 30 times and took a different vehicle each time (I get bored and sell it, buy another).
I need to put my favorite saying in my sig – You Get What You Pay For. I personally would pay the extra money … now, don’t get it from the dealer directly, I’m sure like in the US (granted, never been overseas, or even left home much) but I’m certain you can find the same part, made by a reputable company (BorgWarner, where I worked, was one, there are plenty of others) for $500 or so. Now, keep in mind, the precision of a turbocharger, you need to have someone actually doing QA/QC on each turbo to get good quality products, and if you just pick some guy named Lee (because you said chinese manuf. I’m going with a chinese name here… follow with me) off the street and tell him to measure each one, and keep in mind, they’re probably paid based on how many pass, they’ll let a lot of lower-grade components go through (not just blowing hot air, I had to train a bunch of the guys at the manufacturing center from Beijing how to use some tools I designed, and they kept trying to take shortcuts that would reduce quality significantly, and I kept having to tell them they can’t do that) that could do significant damage to more expensive parts, like, say, idk, your engine.
I’d go with the Toyota dealer parts before I’d just throw some random ebay find turbo on my vehicle, but that’s just me…
I need to put my favorite saying in my sig – You Get What You Pay For. I personally would pay the extra money … now, don’t get it from the dealer directly, I’m sure like in the US (granted, never been overseas, or even left home much) but I’m certain you can find the same part, made by a reputable company (BorgWarner, where I worked, was one, there are plenty of others) for $500 or so. Now, keep in mind, the precision of a turbocharger, you need to have someone actually doing QA/QC on each turbo to get good quality products, and if you just pick some guy named Lee (because you said chinese manuf. I’m going with a chinese name here… follow with me) off the street and tell him to measure each one, and keep in mind, they’re probably paid based on how many pass, they’ll let a lot of lower-grade components go through (not just blowing hot air, I had to train a bunch of the guys at the manufacturing center from Beijing how to use some tools I designed, and they kept trying to take shortcuts that would reduce quality significantly, and I kept having to tell them they can’t do that) that could do significant damage to more expensive parts, like, say, idk, your engine.
I’d go with the Toyota dealer parts before I’d just throw some random ebay find turbo on my vehicle, but that’s just me…
I’ll tell you now … you can’t compare a diesel engine’s lifespan with that of a gasser. They just don’t equate – there was a fella with a GM Van, 6.2L Diesel, hit one million miles without an overhaul on engine or trans. You might, once a decade, hear of a gas engine hitting a million miles, period, but the fact is, diesels regularly see 3 or 4 roll-overs on the odo, and I’ve talked with truckers who have put 10mil+ on their truck. Granted, there were exceptions (the Chevy 350 diesel was a dud, I think there was one before that, a 4 or 6 cyl, which fared even worse) but generally, diesels tend to be better lubricated, experience less wear/tear, and be built better (they’re pricier than their gasser equivs, remember that whole “you get what you pay for” thing?)
Granted, I can tear down/rebuild a chevy 350 with my eyes closed, don’t even have to pull out a book to tell you every torque spec, vacuum pressure, fuel line pressure, and can pick out the intake vs. exhaust lifters from touch. Had one helluva time helping a friend of mine with a Windsor 351, but yeah, not a ford guy personally. Also, remember, Isuzu = Chevrolet, at least for quite a while there, although I think that’s always been the case. Same thing for Geo, both were marketed as “budget” brands, same vehicles, I think even built alongside each other by the same people, same shop and everything, not until they slapped the badges and panels on did they even figure out which vehicle it was going to be.
I’ll tell you now … you can’t compare a diesel engine’s lifespan with that of a gasser. They just don’t equate – there was a fella with a GM Van, 6.2L Diesel, hit one million miles without an overhaul on engine or trans. You might, once a decade, hear of a gas engine hitting a million miles, period, but the fact is, diesels regularly see 3 or 4 roll-overs on the odo, and I’ve talked with truckers who have put 10mil+ on their truck. Granted, there were exceptions (the Chevy 350 diesel was a dud, I think there was one before that, a 4 or 6 cyl, which fared even worse) but generally, diesels tend to be better lubricated, experience less wear/tear, and be built better (they’re pricier than their gasser equivs, remember that whole “you get what you pay for” thing?)
Granted, I can tear down/rebuild a chevy 350 with my eyes closed, don’t even have to pull out a book to tell you every torque spec, vacuum pressure, fuel line pressure, and can pick out the intake vs. exhaust lifters from touch. Had one helluva time helping a friend of mine with a Windsor 351, but yeah, not a ford guy personally. Also, remember, Isuzu = Chevrolet, at least for quite a while there, although I think that’s always been the case. Same thing for Geo, both were marketed as “budget” brands, same vehicles, I think even built alongside each other by the same people, same shop and everything, not until they slapped the badges and panels on did they even figure out which vehicle it was going to be.