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Hey my name is Juan and I have been coming to your videos for help on my 1993 Honda Civic. Recently I have been having some issues with idling. I have checked for air in the cooling system and even cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve that is located directly under my throttle body. I also cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner and screwed down the mechanism that lets the air in, all the way down but loosened it a bit and installed it back but my idle now seems to sit at 1000rpm-1200rpm. So when my idle jumps it goes from 1000rpm-1500rpm. Also when I give the car gas the rpm’s raise then drop below 1000rpm to almost sounding like the car will shut off like its choking or something. I just noticed that my muffler needs to be replaced for the reason that the pipping that connects to the muffler it self has cracks and can now move in and out of the muffler inlet. Would that cause my idle issues? I have not taken off the Fast Idle Air Control Valve that sits on the intake manifolds front towards the firewall. This is the valve that has the screen in it and only has two bolts that hold it in place. Should I take that off and clean that? What should I check and or do first? Thank You for your time and hope to hear back from you soon.
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^Before the test remember to drive at a high interstate speed(safely now and not illegal, 😛 ) or at least constant highway speed for a while(10 miles or more is my minimum) before arriving or heading to the test location. This gives the exhaust enough time to heat up and get heat soaked.
I’ve been considering posting up images of my 1st two ‘pass’ smog inspections on the VX I own, with thoughts as to what’s up. I failed the first 2 at least, possibly 3.
It took cap/rotor/wires/plugs, half a tank of premium gas, among some other things to pass when I got the car, but finally after almost $300-$400 we got it to pass and have caught up another $2,000 in maintenance since(ugh…)complete timing belt service/CVs twice(dont ask), inner and out tie rods + bellows, LAF(5-wire “02”) sensor($630 dealer part, but I got an aftermarket for $55…one that now sells on places like RA for $250, whew got a break there), new tires, brakes, clutch/flywheel re-surface, master at clutch pedal etc etc etc…gah!!! lol /endrant
PS: Ironically, I also tried to use CRC’s Gauranteed 2 Pass, but it won’t pass if you have a mechanical issue, etc…now I’ve learned a lot more about what fluids are real and what are snake oils, at have a working knowledge of what products are ‘like’ as far as a sort of tool. I prefer PEA containing fuel system cleaners, some guys have ran solvents without immediate harm or instead of getting professional injector cleaning for example. PEA can clean as it’s an actual detergent, but the key isn’t to drive through the tank with the Fuel System Cleaner in short order. You need to let it see your normal driving pattern so that the detergent can stay in the system for as long as possible with many heat cycles and time to cleanse by sitting at the injector’s tip like during leak down, etc…FSCs like this are Amsoil’s Pi, Red Line’s SI-1(I = as in Igloo lol), Techron containing FSC from Chevron, or just driving with a couple tanks full of top-tier PREMIUM gas might do the trick since it contains the most detergents from top-tier cert brands like Shell/Chevron w/ Techron stations, Exxon/Mobil stations.
^The Fel-Pro kits can be good, but sometimes they don’t work well with some models.
I like a lot Beck Arnley products myself in a pinch(read: cant afford money for OE out of pocket initial expense).
Of course, OE is always best. I just…monies!!! lol
PS: If the fix lasts and symptoms don’t return, OP please mark the question as ‘Answered’ so the light goes to Green.
I’m glad to hear that you’re making progress and that you followed the correct procedure for adjusting the idle screw. Honestly I have some issues with the Felpro head cover sets for Honda’s as the valve cover gaskets are very difficult to keep inside the head cover when you install it on the engine, OE sets work the best but Beck Arnley seems to work pretty well too, I do think you will need to replace those gaskets in order to fix the oil leaks into the spark plug wells. I’d also like to point out that Honda’s benefit a great deal from OE ignition parts, they really don’t like the aftermarket stuff and run much better with OE parts.
Hey guys just returning to let everyone know that I passed smog!!! Im super happy because all the work I have put into this car and it passed!!! I feel like celebrating lol. Well everything with the car is great so far. There is only one concern. My idle at warm is about 3-7rpm. It stays more at about 300rpm but I know its because I messed with the throttle body air bypass screw. But anyways its not a huge issue now but I may reset the ecu and mess with the air bypass screw till its perfect but not really a must right now. Anyways thanx once again guys for the support.
great to hear you passed smog. make small adjustment to the base idle screw.
thanks for the update.C8-)Thanks also for the update and great job with the fix!
Dont forget to change the traffic light to green if the issue is resolved so it updates our database C8-)
So guys im back with extremely bad news. My clutch started slipping and unfortunately as much as I dont want to say it I think its shot. I believe it all started yesterday. I installed some strut bars and I make some quick runs to test out the handling so I obviously had to smash on the gas pedal. I have been experiencing some smells that smell like my clutch might be burning or maybe my tranny. The reason I say my transmission is because my friend also has the same car but an automatic and whenever he steps on it you can smell his transmission. Even though mine is stick the smells are very similiar. My clutch only has about 2000 miles + or – 500 miles. I currently have an Autozone clutch. When I first bought the car it had just gotten a brand new clutch also from Autozone. After I purchased the car and after about 2 weeks the clutch started slipping until I couldn’t even drive it. So a brand new Autozone clutch was put in and well now its slipping and its shot now. My Driving habits: I usually don’t smash on it but lets just say I drive about 20% of the time hard and the 80% normal shifting around 3500 normally. Could that cause my clutch to slip this early. I am considering investing in a Stage 1 Exedy Clutch. When I began to switch gear I let go of gas then initiate clutch pedal>shift to gear> then let go clutch pedal>as soon as clutch pedal is released I give it gas. This extremely sucks because it just seems its one thing after another and I cant believe the clutch is going out. I dont rev match, I dont double clutch, I dont do anything other then just normal driving in my opinion. Could it be that the Autozone clutch sucks or what are some things that I should keep in mind. When I installed the clutch that is on it right now I did break it in with 1000miles. About 800 miles of city to really use the clutch and about 200 miles highway. Could it be my transmission syncroids could it be my transmission itself. I am sorry if I should began another post and If you guys want I will. Actually I am going to post another thread. But feel free to post to this one too ill check it.
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