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1996 ford explorer 4.0L pushrod coolant leak and overheating

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  • #436232
    CoffeeManCoffeeMan
    Participant

      OK, I’ll start with a brief background:

      I was driving home and noticed the engine overheating about 1 mile from home, so i cranked the heat and that helped a little bit.

    Viewing 5 replies - 16 through 20 (of 20 total)
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    • #436249
      EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
      Keymaster

        Yea lets not run it without a thermostat as that would be a step in the wrong direction in my opinion, don’t drill any holes either you’re not an engineer. S:) Once you get the system bled out properly if you still have an issue you might want to check the airflow through the radiator to see if there are any obstructions as well as check your fan to make sure it’s operating properly and pulling sufficient air through the radiator to cool the system.

        #436248
        dreamer2355dreamer2355
        Participant

          The whole point of the thermostat is to get the engine to operating temperature as soon as possible.

          Without one, you will suffer drivability problems as well as a loss in MPG.

          With the fluctuating temperature gage did you verify the actual temperature by using a scan tool showing PID data as you may have an electrical issue with the gage whether wiring or gage itself?

          #436250
          CoffeeManCoffeeMan
          Participant

            Following up on my problem for future reference:

            I’m not sure why I missed it before (or if it was even happening) but now pressure testing at the cap pressure (16psi) shows slow leaks from the heater core and radiator. I can see it dripping now, but couldn’t before for some reason. looks like this cooling system was just barely hanging on, and trying to service it has made it worse. then there’s the water pump gasket, which i may try to have the shop redo, because A) they did it poorly, and B) it’s a lot of work to just fix that gasket. not my fault.

            EDIT: oh darn, i didn’t even realize there was a page 2 on here… so the last 2 comments i just read. no, i havent tried a scan tool yet. i’m also not working on this every day. while the coolent temp sender may be faulty, i don’t think so because of the fact that turning off the heat changes the guage to behave more normally. my recent discovery about my heater core makes me think that it is the worst leak allowing my system pressure to get too low, and coolant boil, etc. I had to look inside the fender well to find the leak, as removing everything near the heater core seems to be quite a challenge. i’ll do a little more poking around tomorrow.

            #436251
            dreamer2355dreamer2355
            Participant

              I would look at the free Chilton’s online to see if theres any possible short cuts into removing the heater core but depending on the vehicle, you usually have to remove the dash.

              The radiator will be simple enough to remove. I would also flush the system to make sure there is no more gunk build up that could be in the block.

              Good luck and keep us posted.

              #436252
              EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
              Keymaster

                Coolant leaks actually cause air to be introduced into the cooling system, this can cause all kinds of issues including erratic or no heat as well as an overheat condition, address the leaks, bleed the air out, and then recheck for the symptoms.

              Viewing 5 replies - 16 through 20 (of 20 total)
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