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Quoted From Beefy:
I mean the cam bearings, since that is an overhead cam engine. Did you remove the cams and check the bearings? How many miles are on the engine?
no i did not cam was not touched was revised and was not twisted that is why it was not removed from the head
the block is from a 2001 town car heads are from the original mustang engine and is abou 100,000 miles.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Let us know how it goes with your inspection.
Is the engine in ‘time’ correctly? That noise you may hear could be interference issues.
I would be checking for oil pressure as well as timing.
What oil was used for the break in?
It sounds like it may need to be disassembled again S:(
thnks I will inform as soon as posible, engine is in time as I got the info from autozone as well i will check that too, the oil used was 5w-20, if it needs to be dissassembled…. well i will do it again since i will learn more.
i appreciate the help i hope this can be another experience for others.
When rebuilding an engine, its critical to use the correct service information.
Why was the engine ‘rebuilt’?
What exactly was done to the engine? Were the cylinders bored? All lower end bearings replaced?
Did you use plasti-gage to check for clearances as well as feeler gages to check for thrust play?
Quoted From dreamer2355:
When rebuilding an engine, its critical to use the correct service information.
Why was the engine ‘rebuilt’?
What exactly was done to the engine? Were the cylinders bored? All lower end bearings replaced?
Did you use plasti-gage to check for clearances as well as feeler gages to check for thrust play?
the engine was rebuild because last mechanic did not torque the lower end parts, mains were loose and heads as well so the engine had a coolant leak that cause the engine to overheat and to spun 2 rod bearings.
cylinders were not bored they are in standard size, piston rings were replaced to in standard, crankshaft was worked and reduced rods and main to 20’s, rod’s and main bearings where replaced in new measure(20). Head was just worked to reduce lower surface ( face that mates the engine)both of them since they were a little twisted.
Plastigage clearence for rods and mains are in .015 – .020
If the heads have 100,00 miles on them there is a good chance you could have worn cam bearings and worn valve guides adding to a loss of oil pressure. retorqing the rod and main bolts won’t make any difference if the clearances are off in those areas. you need to address the ratteling sound ( find out were it is coming from ) use a mechanics stethascope or long screw driver to listen to various areas of the motor to determine were the sound is originating from. were the pistons changed on this motor ?
Quoted From 619DioFan:
If the heads have 100,00 miles on them there is a good chance you could have worn cam bearings and worn valve guides adding to a loss of oil pressure. retorqing the rod and main bolts won’t make any difference if the clearances are off in those areas. you need to address the ratteling sound ( find out were it is coming from ) use a mechanics stethascope or long screw driver to listen to various areas of the motor to determine were the sound is originating from. were the pistons changed on this motor ?
So I might need to change cam bearings???
the ratteling sound comes from the front of the engine (front cover) as i removed the head cover to check if cams where damaged, used a water hose and noticed that the sound was coming from this part.
what can u suggest, the timing-guide-tensioner was torqued to 28 lb-in. Could it be posible that i need more torque in that tensioner since there is a probable presion leak in that area???
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Those plasti-gage readings ‘seem’ too high but without service information, its hard to tell.
where can I get that service information????
Quoted From FernyGT:
the engine was rebuild because last mechanic did not torque the lower end parts, mains were loose and heads as well so the engine had a coolant leak that cause the engine to overheat and to spun 2 rod bearings.
cylinders were not bored they are in standard size, piston rings were replaced to in standard, crankshaft was worked and reduced rods and main to 20’s, rod’s and main bearings where replaced in new measure(20). Head was just worked to reduce lower surface ( face that mates the engine)both of them since they were a little twisted.
Plastigage clearence for rods and mains are in .015 – .020
If you had the engine rebuilt, and the guy happened to leave the bottom end loose, why not take it to his shop and make him eat it? I’m just curious now…
Quoted From FernyGT:
where can I get that service information????
You should have that information present when rebuilding a motor at all times. Without it, its a lost cause.
It has everything you need to know when it comes down to torque specifications, clearances for all bearings, specifications for cylinder bores, tapper and so forth…
You will need to look online for one.
Quoted From FernyGT:
where can I get that service information????
Man, you really have to buy the service manual. I just found a digital version of the factory Toyota manual for my Toyota rav4 for $8.75. I downloaded it. It’s all in adobe, but I’m gonna spend the extra bucks and print it off. You can’t do a proper engine rebuild without that info.
Quoted From Beefy:
If you had the engine rebuilt, and the guy happened to leave the bottom end loose, why not take it to his shop and make him eat it? I’m just curious now…
There is a family story involved since this guy is my friends brother in law, he already took matter in this joint, but i do not want him to touch this engine again as he can leave it worse. you know what they say if that mechanic did not worked… change him.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw
Watch that video.
the only info i had was the torque specs that i found online but i was unable to find the acceptable clearence and was not gonna since another mechanic told me that if i was within that range, it was ok
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw
Watch that video.
already did my question is if I an in the right clearence, am i missing something, why is there a rattling noise if i am starting at 50 psi and drops down, is that normal??? should i change oil pump??? or is there something i did not understood from the video
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