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do you have to resurface engine heads if the head gasket blows? I have a Ford Mustang 1998 v6 and I can see water and smoke cumming out the exhaust and smells sweet… So I’m pretty sure its a blown gasket. Now.. I never Changed one before but I watched a video and it was good enough for me to feel ok to do it my self. I know Eric posted a video about NOT using stuff to run through the engine to seal it up. What are other peoples take one that? I had a leaking heater core and ran sealer through it and it work wonderful. 5,000 miles later and it still works good. But back to the mustang. Is it worth the fix? should i sell the car? what is your take on it. :blink:
btw I saw this want do you think?
8/6/14 UPDATE:
heres the heads gasket tell me what u think?
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Only you can decide whether it is worth fixing the car or not.
I wouldn’t replace a bad head gasket without having the heads checked by a machine shop. They can verify whether heads have any cracks or not, and mill them if there is any warpage. Sometimes you get lucky, and they haven’t warped (more often the case with iron heads, not so much with aluminum) but if you just put the new gaskets in, and there is any warpage, you will be doing the job again very shortly down the road.
As for leak sealer, no, no, hell no. Leak sealer has no idea if what it is plugging up is a leak, or a passage in your radiator. It will plug up anything, anywhere, and just as often as not, make more of a mess to deal with down the line. That goes double for any goop that claims it will fix head gasket leaks. Save your time, and money, and just fix it right the first time around.
I decided to do it the right way and take it all apart. Im all the way down to the heads now all i have to crack lose the bolt heads. But its late so ima try tomorrow. Looks like ima need a pry bar to attach on the socket wrench. Ill keep everyone posted.
Since those engines had known issues with head gaskets I would at least have them checked for flatness.
Stop leak is not a good idea unless it’s an emergency. It seems to plug up more than leaks.
It’s typically not expensive to have the cylinder head(s) checked for warpage and milled if necessary. There’s also a case to be made for getting a valve job done while the heads are off, but obviously that will increase the cost.
Well, a good straight edge and a flash light will check head for square.
A large new grinding stone or even a large flat surface with sand paper affixed to it is your lath. Been done and fine.
With head off, no big deal to drop the valves, replace stem seals, and re-grind valve seats back together with valves using grinding compound and hand drill.
Just make sure you have valves marked and they go back to the same place.
It’s about day long DIY project and very rewarding at the end. While there, you can drop oil pan and replace piston rings and rod bearings through the opening. Done twice.
There is much that can be accomplished with heads off.
Last time I gave head to a shop it was $600 and 3 days. Plus my parts.
I think, it comes down to time, patience, tools availability, some courage, and respect to your money. For some, it may well be worth to pay someone to do the job.Here’s your lath if you have sturdy hand:
I think the $200 (and that’s in NY, probably not that expensive elsewhere) to have a machine shop check a head for cracks, and warpage, and properly mill it is well worth the investment. I’ve never taken a belt sander to a cylinder head, and I don’t expect to in the future either, but to each his own.
A BELT SANDER! SHEESH! Are you a redneck? The surface finish is almost as important as flatness on a cylinder head, especially an aluminum head.
Sorry…Couldn’t help myself.
As long as you have a known flat surface and a flashlight you can check that stuff yourself. especially if youre tight on money. its not a bad investment to take it to a machine shop but how much time or money do you have? thats the question. Ive done several without taking the head to the machine shop. if you know what to look for that is. just make sure its not warped or cracked and the mating surfaces are clean and youll be good.
[quote=”jdub1022″ post=106852]As long as you have a known flat surface and a flashlight you can check that stuff yourself. especially if youre tight on money. its not a bad investment to take it to a machine shop but how much time or money do you have? thats the question. Ive done several without taking the head to the machine shop. if you know what to look for that is. just make sure its not warped or cracked and the mating surfaces are clean and youll be good.[/quote]
What do you recommend as a “known flat surface”? Is there anything you can use without resorting to buying a machinist’s special tool. I’d like to have something like this myself.
[quote=”barneyb” post=106900][quote=”jdub1022″ post=106852]As long as you have a known flat surface and a flashlight you can check that stuff yourself. especially if youre tight on money. its not a bad investment to take it to a machine shop but how much time or money do you have? thats the question. Ive done several without taking the head to the machine shop. if you know what to look for that is. just make sure its not warped or cracked and the mating surfaces are clean and youll be good.[/quote]
What do you recommend as a “known flat surface”? Is there anything you can use without resorting to buying a machinist’s special tool. I’d like to have something like this myself.[/quote]
I’ve used something like this in the past
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-combination-suare-69361.htmlNo you wont have to. Just make sure you get the old one off properly. Clean it all up good before putting the new one on. And make sure you torque the bolts properly as explained in one of Erics videos. Just look up the torque specs for your car.
On newer cars it is often more working getting all the sensors, piping, wiring and accessories off than it is doing the engine work. Well, there is nothing more discouraging than doing a big job like this and then finding, in the end, that all your work was wasted effort because the head was warped or cracked.
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=106818]
Last time I gave head to a shop it was $600 and 3 days. Plus my parts[/quote]
I got a valve job and resurface done on the head from my 4.0L Grand Cherokee for the equivalent of $136, plus the cost of new valves (which I supplied). Yes, it took a few days, but no biggie.
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