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after i did the ignition parts but before I put the GTP in, on hi idle it blew 90ppm HC, and 330ppm HC at low idle. Other readings have never been bad.
Even before ignition overhaul it passed high idle, just passed it better after the replacements. All plugs looked minimally worn and were just like the NORMAL picture in the haynes manual.
odd side note, the pregapped plugs I bought were like 50% off from the hanyes manuals numbers. (they almost matched the plugs I pulled out)
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Some of those products to guarantee a pass take 2 tanks to clear out. Also your HC could be high if you are burning oil I think.
Also if the timing is off, you could potentially be pushing un burnt fuel out the tail pipe. I would check valve timing as well as ignition timing.
These cars had timing belts so that could be the issue especially if the engine source was more interested in selling the engine than if it worked right.
Also a less than honest tip:
My dad had an 1981 280ZX that would not pass emissions. It had a bit of a blue smoke problem. So he drained the engine and filled it with straight 50 weight oil and it passed. Then he refilled back with the original spec oil after.
Also how close are the engines? I mean I know the Prizm was a rebadged corolla, but the 97 was an OBDII car and the 94 was not.
Without scan tool data, its going to be a tough one to diagnose.
If the engine is from a 97, that is OBD2 as stated prior. So if the install was done correctly including the 97 wiring harnesses and the 97 ECM, you should be able to pull some scan tool data.
If thats not the case, i would do some research and see what corners have been cut.
I would start cross referencing engine wiring diagrams for both engines as well as vacuum diagrams.
The vehicle is running ‘rich’ as you already know but there are many contributing factors to this.
came from a car that was wrecked…. everything i go to replace on it looks to have been replaced not too too long ago (motor had 125K on it, it DOES look like someone did the 100K mile tune up) I doubt they switched the ECM…… Also, I had heard the inspection stations have to go by the registration… (may or may not be accurate)
Going to get oil changed now and will report back later
EDIT: wife can’t let me have it till tomorrow.would the ecm “know” its running that badly if the only sensor it has is oxygen? (is that why I don’t have a check engine?)
I keep reading about messing with the ignition timing…. some sites just say twist the distributer cap… mine isn’t a circle it has little nubs that prevent twisting.. SOL on that one?
Anything that is OBD2 will throw a CEL if there is any issues with any sensors that will affect emissions.
Im interested to know how the vehicle is running if its still using all 94 wiring and ECM.
The EGR will not effect HC so I think you can rule that out. DON’T use the Haynes manual for plug gap, especially if your using NGK, look at the underhood sticker as that will tell you were to gap the plugs, you may be way off as a result of your adjustment. I’ve not know Haynes manuals to be all that helpful for things like that.
That said I would be checking a couple of things for high HC, the first would be a vacuum leak, I’ll post a link to a video on that. Also any exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor can cause the engine to run rich so if you have exhaust leaks you should address them. Next considering that engine could have been sitting a while you might want to take the vacuum hose off of the fuel pressure regulator to make sure it’s not leaking fuel internally. If it’s not you SHOULD be good but you really should check it with a fuel pressure gauge with the engine running and the vacuum hose disconnected and connected so you can compare the readings, disconnected it pressure should go high, connected the pressure should drop.
That should be enough to get you started anyway. Good luck
Sorry, forgot to post the link.
ugh…. i had this all typed up and accidentally clicked the page before backspacing a word (took browser back a page)
Thanks for the help and support guys. Clearly some people in the know frequent here.
I do hope to figure out the cause of the fail but I’m not sure if ill be able to with any certainty. I changed the oil today and took it back to the inspection station and it passed.
Note sure if it was the oil being 400 miles past 3000 (i’ve been busy please don’t flog me) or the Guaranteed to pass still possibly lingering after one tank (this was the second tank after the one with GTP) or that there was no line at the inspection station and they wanted to keep it that way by passing me through.
I asked to know what the reading was so I knew if i passed by an inch or a mile but they said that reports only print when the car fails (different from a couple years ago, or a lie…dunno which)Still I wonder how much leaving the “EGR Valve unused” matters too. I’ll try to put up photos of the engine bay where there are lines between a couple parts on every other 1.6l toyota EFI motor I’ve seen (I shoped for a while and this is my .. 4th prizm motor I’ve owned, 3rd car) which only this one now has capped off.
Why would you not use and EGR valve if the motor had one? I mean its connecting a part of the motor to another part of the motor… it doesn’t even look like its something where you could obviously see “oh, thats the new motors connector, and Thats the one on the car and they just don’t fit”
EDIT: just reread Eric’s post and facepalmed myself for somehow missing the first line—sorry!At any rate:
the motor has about 130k on it, it was installed about 3500 ago (car has 165k, i had one run til 285K when the timing belt tensionioner seized so I think he will last a bit),So far, so good.
I know most fluids were changed, and like I said, i think I got lucky because it looks like the previous owner had done the 100K mile tune up.Its been doing the same mpg as the old motor ( stupid 3speed auto kills mpg down to 26-28! — one I had before this was a 5 speed that did 35mpg on an off week, and 38 when I did 90% highway driving) I guess I should’ve asked for the 4 speed out of the 97 corolla to go with it… maybe good for a couple more mpg.
Next up is replacing what i suspect are two quite bad motor mounts. (car rolls for 2 inchs before the tranny clicks into park, vibrates a good bit when running, and both the old and new/reman axle vibrates, but doesn’t “click”, under hard acceleration and turning while even gently accelerating. i’ve run an axle til the cv joint failed mid drive, this thing is doing something different…)
Again, thanks so much for the help guys, its refreshing to hit a forum where I get answers and Good suggestions RATHER THAN a bunch of people who are as clueless as I am lol.
Glad you got it through inspection.
If it was obd-2 with the EGR unhooked it would not have passed.
So thank goodness for obd-1 this time huh. T)http://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarGuy#p/u/15/scFbb43fwqk
This is one of Eric’s video’s on suspension noises. I would recommend you take alook at this one. It will be a good diagnostic aid for you C8-)
I did two of the 4 mounts with the last motor like 2 years ago… the shop I stopped at said that the front and right mount were only both one type, but the other two varied and could each be one of 7 different, similar but incompatible designs…went to napa and they said they didn’t carry the two other ones, so I bought the two I knew would fit and had my father in laws mechanic throw them in when he did the timing belt (i’ve got 2.5 years of high school auto tech instruction but timing belt and mounts was a bit much for me at that time) Swapping the motors went to the same guy, I think he may or may not have noticed it but didn’t bring it up because he knew i didn’t have the money to fix it, at that time, anyway.
And now, later, napa says the other shop was full of bs and they now cary all 4 mounts…. hoping the two bad didn’t help to ruin the two which were good…
I clicked yes on the has this topic been answered but it hasn’t kicked to green… i’ll hit it again after posting this
and now I’m curious, what DOES the egr valve do as far as emissions?
I had thought it was there to reburn the exhaust which would make the most sense (in my limited knowledge base) for eliminating HC.and why would it be left disconnected when it looks like only two parts of the engine connect to it (both of which appear to have come with the ‘new’ motor)
If it was only added to the new motor and not originally on the car I could see how the exhaust would have no or an incompatible hookup for it …. could that be the case and I just cannot see it underneath that cramped little engine bay? (and thus negating the need for it to be connected in other locations as well)
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