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To the Naysayers:
Nothing wrong with tacking in that ball joint. The tack welds are just preventing the ball joint socket from turning inside the LCA. Once assembled, that ball joint is not going anywhere. As mentioned earlier, if it passes alignment spec, then it’s a good repair. Furthermore, if I brought my beater car into a trusted technician like Eric, and he presented me with the same findings, I would opt for the same thing rather than spend more money on an LCA I don’t need for a beater car.It wouldn’t be so bad if you had to replace the whole LCA but could return the old core (like the brake callipers Eric also did) but I’m not sure if this is the case with LCA’s?
[quote=”ChrisKaye” post=158013]It wouldn’t be so bad if you had to replace the whole LCA but could return the old core (like the brake callipers Eric also did) but I’m not sure if this is the case with LCA’s?[/quote]
No core on an LCA.
That’s what I thought and somewhat ridiculous, what a waste considering most only need bushes and ball joints renewed!
A couple questions. 1. Would a ratchet be a better tool for trying to break free a stuck bleeder valve? Maybe I’m wrong but it seems like a combination wrench would apply more ‘sideways’ force causing it to break most easily? 2. Ever put anti-seize on a bleeder valve when installing a new caliper since they so often get stuck? Keep up the good work.
[quote=”bkord123″ post=158253]A couple questions. 1. Would a ratchet be a better tool for trying to break free a stuck bleeder valve? Maybe I’m wrong but it seems like a combination wrench would apply more ‘sideways’ force causing it to break most easily? 2. Ever put anti-seize on a bleeder valve when installing a new caliper since they so often get stuck? Keep up the good work.[/quote]
A ratchet would work, but a wrench is what I had handy. I don’t use antisieze that way. I’m not sure if there would be an adverse effect between brake fluid and antisieze. Trust me, it’ll rust no matter what.
Thanks, Eric. Seems like someone could invent a better valve since they so easily rust and break off.
I’m chiming in on this, as I am Bryan of the Bryan and Jerry duo. The car belongs to my Dad, and I cannot thank Eric enough for taking time and effort into helping my father.
As Eric said earlier, he stands by his repair. So do I.
My father is saying that the car drives better than it did five years ago when I got it for him. There are NO suspension issues whatsoever, the ride is better than it ever has been before.When my father and I came to pick the car up, I asked Eric about that ball joint being welded in. Eric took the time to explain it and even SHOW me why the tack-weld repair was sufficient. the ball joint can’t go ANYWHERE. Even in the excessively unlikely event that the welds fail, the ball joint CANNOT fall out and there will NOT be a catastrophic failure. Eric respected the fact that I just wanted to know because it was my Dad driving the car, and I respect Eric far more than enough to take him at his word. If Eric says the repair is solid, I believe him.
Eric would never put my father or anyone else in an unsafe car, and anyone who says otherwise can suck a bag of .
Thanks again, Eric. You, Sir, are one of the good ones.
-Hinoki
[quote=”Hinoki” post=158355]I’m chiming in on this, as I am Bryan of the Bryan and Jerry duo. The car belongs to my Dad, and I cannot thank Eric enough for taking time and effort into helping my father.
As Eric said earlier, he stands by his repair. So do I.
My father is saying that the car drives better than it did five years ago when I got it for him. There are NO suspension issues whatsoever, the ride is better than it ever has been before.When my father and I came to pick the car up, I asked Eric about that ball joint being welded in. Eric took the time to explain it and even SHOW me why the tack-weld repair was sufficient. the ball joint can’t go ANYWHERE. Even in the excessively unlikely event that the welds fail, the ball joint CANNOT fall out and there will NOT be a catastrophic failure. Eric respected the fact that I just wanted to know because it was my Dad driving the car, and I respect Eric far more than enough to take him at his word. If Eric says the repair is solid, I believe him.
Eric would never put my father or anyone else in an unsafe car, and anyone who says otherwise can suck a bag of .
Thanks again, Eric. You, Sir, are one of the good ones.
-Hinoki[/quote]
That just made my day Brian. Thanks. Glad to hear the car is still going strong. I hope you guys can make it to the ‘Meet Up’ this year. I’m sure the fans would love to meet you and your dad in person. There’s a page on this website with the details.
I registered just to add in here, i have the exact same year car (although mine is the spec v trim)
I replaced the balljoints last year with the same moog parts. I double checked my order and the part numbers are the same, mine were the right size for my factory lca’s. The only thing i can think of is that the part inside the box was not the correct part, or the lca’s on that sentra were not original.
It’s been about 8 months since i did mine but just looking at your balljoint that you got in the box i could swear it looks smaller than the one i got.[quote=”Jamiec” post=158491]I registered just to add in here, i have the exact same year car (although mine is the spec v trim)
I replaced the balljoints last year with the same moog parts. I double checked my order and the part numbers are the same, mine were the right size for my factory lca’s. The only thing i can think of is that the part inside the box was not the correct part, or the lca’s on that sentra were not original.
It’s been about 8 months since i did mine but just looking at your balljoint that you got in the box i could swear it looks smaller than the one i got.[/quote]Interesting. Thanks for your input.
KIf Moog lists a replacement ball joint and what is in the box doesn’t fit, what is wrong? Moog either reverse engineers parts by teardown or builds from manufacturers specs.
1. Was the wrong part in the box?
2. Did Nissan make an undocumented change?
3. Did the control arm supplier sneak something past Nissan?
4. Is the control arm on the car the one Nissan shipped it with?Seems strange that neither the ball joints nor the control arm have any identification marks that could be used to determine why there was a mismatch. I’m inclined to say the wrong oart was in the Moog box. As an amateur, my first step would be to get the same part Moog from another batch and compare parts, or contact Moog and get their engineering spec for the diameter of the ball joint.
Working as an unpaid pro, with a deadline, i suppose the constraints would be different.
But Nissan’s stance, in not selling what should be a commonly available repair part separately, is suspicious.
[quote=”psdaengr” post=160499]KIf Moog lists a replacement ball joint and what is in the box doesn’t fit, what is wrong? Moog either reverse engineers parts by teardown or builds from manufacturers specs.
1. Was the wrong part in the box?
2. Did Nissan make an undocumented change?
3. Did the control arm supplier sneak something past Nissan?
4. Is the control arm on the car the one Nissan shipped it with?Seems strange that neither the ball joints nor the control arm have any identification marks that could be used to determine why there was a mismatch. I’m inclined to say the wrong oart was in the Moog box. As an amateur, my first step would be to get the same part Moog from another batch and compare parts, or contact Moog and get their engineering spec for the diameter of the ball joint.
Working as an unpaid pro, with a deadline, i suppose the constraints would be different.
But Nissan’s stance, in not selling what should be a commonly available repair part separately, is suspicious.[/quote]
I believe the wrong part was in the box. Nissan doesn’t sell just the ball joint, they sell the control arm. I tried getting another ball joint from Moog, but I had the same issue. The control arms were 2 days out BTW and I just didn’t have time for that. Sadly, this is a common occurrence in my experience.
Either they were mis packaged, or they didn’t get the secs right. Either way, I’m fine with the fix I did despite everyones misgivings about it. The car has been on the road for 2 months now without issue.
I’ll leave the welding the ball joint alone…:)
Having done a few Nissan front ends I was pleasantly surprised they are actually easier than Toyotas and Hondas. I don’t know if you noticed, but the bearing can be put in either direction on the knuckle (there is another Snap ring in the back side!)
Also, when removing the race, there is usually a lip on the race that protrudes that you can get a two arm puller on, and don’t have to mess with the cutting wheel!
Great video.
-Karl
Eric, I’ve read some of the flack you are getting. I know that ball joint isn’t going anywere. You know it. Even the one’s giving you flack know it as well. We have all done things a bit off the record to get things done. They do have one valid point, and that has to do with doing this as a professional. It’s okay with your own car, maybe a buddy’s, even someone you are doing it as a favor, but if there is a papertrail and money involved, I wouldn’t do it. Simple reason is because it’s not the book way of doing things and you are opening yourself up to liability if anything were to happen. Lawyers can make molehills into mountains. Say they have an accident, and even though it’s their own fault, they claim something went wrong with the car, trying to cover their butt, and they have a smart lawyer, the lawyer will have that car inspected with a fine tooth comb. Even though your repair didn’t break, or cause the wreck, the lawyer will say the car was not serviced properly and will want you at least partially responsible. Just having to defend youreself in court can be very costly.
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