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Surprise Surprise! Found a dead solenoid on top of the air intake right before the engine. There were actually two solenoids right next to each other. I tested for continuity, lo and behold one of the two was dead. Actually, strangely enough the P0090 code that was set off wasn’t pointing to THAT solenoid I replaced but rather another solenoid which regulated the fuel pressure. That solenoid still had continuity in it. I also hooked up a 12 volt battery booster to the solenoid to hear if it clicked, and sure enough it did. So I said what the hey…. this guy still seems to be working. So I checked the actual ohms reading, however it was about 10-13 higher than what the service manual had stated. Manual mentioned it needed to between 22-26 ohms. I was getting 36-43 ohms. Thought it was bad, so I went to Autozone to order that part, turns out when I tested that new unit I was getting the same amount of ohms. I thought hmmmm maybe try dearlership part. Even then I tested dealership part, same ohm reading. Almost gave up until I noticed “other” solenoids in the area so I thought I take out the electrical plug and tested to see if I would get the same reading. After two more tests I found out the real culprit. Found the part # and ordered it no problem at Autozone. Car idles smooth now when car is disengaged coming to a stop. I haven’t been on any long trips to determine if symptoms have been remedied, but it’s a start.
As for my brakes, I found out why the my outer pad is wearing down more than the inner pad on the front driver side. The brake piston was stuck in the caliper. It wouldn’t compress inward, so my landlord suggested I drop a few drops of brake fluid in between the rubber brake boot and the piston so it can be lubricated. Afterwards the piston compressed no problem. Its only a matter of time before I have to change my front brake calipers, that I know because I bought the car used. No idea what the previous owner did to it, but all the rubber caps on top of the bleeder valves are all gone as well as the cap for the sliding pins.
Yes, definitely thank you for your input. I didn’t want to “clutter up” the forums with several different posts on the same car. I will do that next time…
As far as your take on the RPM issue and engagement, it does sound reasonable to suspect that might be the culprit. I will have to tackle that today.
Yes, definitely thank you for your input. I didn’t want to “clutter up” the forums with several different posts on the same car. I will do that next time…
As far as your take on the RPM issue and engagement, it does sound reasonable to suspect that might be the culprit. I will have to tackle that today.
Thank you very much for the brake page. Although I do have one question about the brake fluid. Can I just buy any DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fluid and mix it with the existing brake fluid that is in the system already? I mean I know enough not to mix different engine oils and not to mix different anti freezes together, however does that rule apply to brake fluid as well? Should just flush out everything and start from scratch, therefore knowing what I have in the system rather than starting from a system that I don’t know what kind of brake fluid is my system?
Also regarding the check engine light, I did pull codes P0455 and P0090. The P0455 has been solved since I’ve replaced the two fuel lines coming to the engine, however the P0090 is still there. Upon googling I have found out it could be a fuel pressure regulator sensor malfunction. I will have to rip out my my service manual and get back to you guys about that because it’s certainly been a while since I’ve touched on the issue. I DID have a question about it, however I forgot what it was.
Thank you very much for the brake page. Although I do have one question about the brake fluid. Can I just buy any DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fluid and mix it with the existing brake fluid that is in the system already? I mean I know enough not to mix different engine oils and not to mix different anti freezes together, however does that rule apply to brake fluid as well? Should just flush out everything and start from scratch, therefore knowing what I have in the system rather than starting from a system that I don’t know what kind of brake fluid is my system?
Also regarding the check engine light, I did pull codes P0455 and P0090. The P0455 has been solved since I’ve replaced the two fuel lines coming to the engine, however the P0090 is still there. Upon googling I have found out it could be a fuel pressure regulator sensor malfunction. I will have to rip out my my service manual and get back to you guys about that because it’s certainly been a while since I’ve touched on the issue. I DID have a question about it, however I forgot what it was.
Thank you all for the quick reply!
ToyotaKarl, yes I am familiar with Pick ‘n Pull, as I use to live around the Newark, CA area. Honestly I’ve been to that one more than several dozen times trying to find parts for my ’91 Acura Integra. Great wreck yard. Very organized, and they charged $2 all-day entrance fee. I recently moved back to southern California and am still trying to find a good wreck yard like that, but luck has not hit me yet.
My concerned with going to the wreck yard is, not so much disassembling the part (which is quite easy enough) but the longevity of the cable. Sure saving money is a priority, however is it wise to get a “pre-owned” part for something like a brake cable?
Thank you all for the quick reply!
ToyotaKarl, yes I am familiar with Pick ‘n Pull, as I use to live around the Newark, CA area. Honestly I’ve been to that one more than several dozen times trying to find parts for my ’91 Acura Integra. Great wreck yard. Very organized, and they charged $2 all-day entrance fee. I recently moved back to southern California and am still trying to find a good wreck yard like that, but luck has not hit me yet.
My concerned with going to the wreck yard is, not so much disassembling the part (which is quite easy enough) but the longevity of the cable. Sure saving money is a priority, however is it wise to get a “pre-owned” part for something like a brake cable?
No codes. Sorry I forgot to mention that.
The RPM corresponds to the speed of the vehicle. If I accelerate the RPM follows suit, regardless if there’s massive vibration or not.
Shifting is as smooth as it can be. There’s absolutely no problem shifting into ANY of the gears.
No codes. Sorry I forgot to mention that.
The RPM corresponds to the speed of the vehicle. If I accelerate the RPM follows suit, regardless if there’s massive vibration or not.
Shifting is as smooth as it can be. There’s absolutely no problem shifting into ANY of the gears.
Living in California, I’ve seen a few of these going around. Strangely enough I would expect to see more. Actually I’ve been seeing a lot more of those Telsa all electric cars than the BRZ/FR-S zipping around, however that’s not so unexpected since I work near the NUMMI factory (now renamed “Tesla Factory.”)
Fun to drive car? I’m sure it is. That’s why I went and researched more about Subaru engines, and after much looking I’m in love with the flat four engine layout, however I’m not too sure I want to get something with AWD since I’ll be living in California the rest of my life, and then the BRZ/FR-S came out. Hmmmm front engine, rear wheel drive, and most importantly, a SUBARU ENGINE!
^^ But after looking in at the compartment :woohoo:. That’s a really tight space lol. I’ve yet to see one in real life, so I have no idea what’s the actual clearance for tools is like.
Well, since then, I’ve been leaning more away from that type of sporty genre and more towards a smaller mini-SUV, like the Mazda 3’s Hatchback, Hyundai Elantra GT, or Honda Fit, because those cars are more practical. As far as fun goes, I’ll probably buy a motorcycle.
Living in California, I’ve seen a few of these going around. Strangely enough I would expect to see more. Actually I’ve been seeing a lot more of those Telsa all electric cars than the BRZ/FR-S zipping around, however that’s not so unexpected since I work near the NUMMI factory (now renamed “Tesla Factory.”)
Fun to drive car? I’m sure it is. That’s why I went and researched more about Subaru engines, and after much looking I’m in love with the flat four engine layout, however I’m not too sure I want to get something with AWD since I’ll be living in California the rest of my life, and then the BRZ/FR-S came out. Hmmmm front engine, rear wheel drive, and most importantly, a SUBARU ENGINE!
^^ But after looking in at the compartment :woohoo:. That’s a really tight space lol. I’ve yet to see one in real life, so I have no idea what’s the actual clearance for tools is like.
Well, since then, I’ve been leaning more away from that type of sporty genre and more towards a smaller mini-SUV, like the Mazda 3’s Hatchback, Hyundai Elantra GT, or Honda Fit, because those cars are more practical. As far as fun goes, I’ll probably buy a motorcycle.
[quote=”snshd” post=48127]… me personally I prefer an oiled compressor over a dry pump. Longer life and less noise. ….[/quote]
I’m sorry, I don’t what to seem like I’m hi-jacking this thread, but what’s the difference between an “oiled compressor” and a “dry pump?” We have three compressors around the house; a Craftsman (Sears), a Husky (Home Depot), and another Husky that’s small enough to fit inside a small 4 cyl car. I don’t quite remember how much each three hold, however I’m curious to find out what KIND of compressors they are. I’m just the average no nothing consumer. :silly:
[quote=”snshd” post=48127]… me personally I prefer an oiled compressor over a dry pump. Longer life and less noise. ….[/quote]
I’m sorry, I don’t what to seem like I’m hi-jacking this thread, but what’s the difference between an “oiled compressor” and a “dry pump?” We have three compressors around the house; a Craftsman (Sears), a Husky (Home Depot), and another Husky that’s small enough to fit inside a small 4 cyl car. I don’t quite remember how much each three hold, however I’m curious to find out what KIND of compressors they are. I’m just the average no nothing consumer. :silly: