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OK so I’m an idiot!
But I may have figured some of it out as well…
Here goes; the “bleed nipple” I was able to unscrew to “bleed out the pressure” so the piston would go back in with the use of a “brake spreader” (instead of the c-clamp). Only a bit of fluids came out when I unscrewed it. It could easily be topped off. Although I was only able to put new brake pads on the left side, I’m still running on old pads on the right side because at first try I was thinking of “lefty loosy” and ended up tightening one of the caliper bolts. So, now I’m stuck with a stripped bolt. I have tried every tool suggested to me by Harbor Freight, including tools made to take out a stripped nut. I sprayed PB Blaster as well. I was advised to use a vice grip as well. That didn’t work. Is my last resort is to use heat to heat up the stripped and stuck nut or go to a real shop?
[quote=”relative4″ post=193026]Do not use a clamp! Read the instructions in the link, and either borrow the tool from the auto parts store or just use pliers to turn the piston.[/quote]
I see. Yes, this is the rear calipers. I tried to push the piston back in with a c-clamp and it just wasn’t moving at all, although the C-clamp was small (3″). I’ll try a bigger c-clamp and or bleed it out or use a “spreader”?
says it doesn’t fit my 2015 Mazda 3. Is this plug and play or requires drilling? I rarely use the high beam lights. I’d like the fog lights to be useful during rain or snow.
There had to be a way to skip all these for profit schools. One guy I know who now owns his mobile car maintenance business and is listed in Groupon had told me he went to Lincoln Tech but didn’t graduate and told me that in that school you won’t learn anything that you can’t learn from watching Youtube videos. So in other words, once you have some hands on training or experience and can pass the licensing test, is that all that matters? One tech school for diesel takes about 9 months to finish and the cost is $30K. I think it’s ridiculous when I can get a bachelor’s degree for a more sought out degree (ex: Petroleum Engineering), for $5K a year, which still equals to $20K for 4 years! Is there actually a way to skip going to for-profit diesel training/tech school and get the training/experience/license?
This site was a good read: http://www.knowb4youenroll.com
Although Cummins does offer a 12 week training at their training facility in Tampa, FL for free, one must work for them for 3 years. I probably would take this route if I’m able to relocate to FL!
replacing these could fix the problem? How much estimate? Any possible causes of it? The mileage isn’t much, about 70K.
Just went to Walmart and the manager informed me the noise is my “brake sensor” telling me it’s time to replace the brake pads.
Doesn’t WD-40 somehow evaporate? I only sprayed it on the calipers which may also have gotten on the brakes/rotors. If this is bad, how do I undo this mistake, do I spray a brake cleaner to “override” the WD-40?
[quote=”Disabled Automotive” post=177812]+1 on the rotor shield contacting the rotor.
And whoever told you to spray WD 40 on your brakes needs to be beaten with a large stick that’s the last place to that you want oil on.[/quote]
I think I had Walmart retorque it and got a wheel alignment or balancing after a week I had the new rear tires installed (I forgot which one I had done but I think it’s balancing since Walmart may not even do wheel alignments). Although the squealing noise already occurred after the rear tires had been changed, I’m not sure what a balancing did.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=177821]Have you had the wheels off since WalMart put them on? If not, I would loosen the lug nuts and retorque them properly, following the proper pattern. No telling how monkeys with air guns put the wheels on.[/quote]
The idiots at Walmart told me to just spray WD-40 on the calipers so the noise would disappear. Even when I’m not stepping on the brakes it makes a squealing noise when reversing. When I’m driving I could hear the “chirping” noise as well. My passenger told me he could hear it too and he told me my brake pads might be going out. I told him my car is a 2015 Mazda 3 that I bought just last year. Although I already did 32,000 miles on it, is it time to replace the brake pads or did the rookies at Walmart did something stupid?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=177807]With no information about your vehicle:
Pull the rear tires, pull and inspect the brake pads.
Perhaps perform a service on the calipers.
Also check for debris and possibly the dust shield(s) making contact with the rotor.P.S. ..
Never spray WD-40 on the calipers.[/quote]
