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The easiest way to determine if the drum and hub are the right size is to swap the drums.
If the R/S drum is floppy on the new hub and the L/S drum is tight on the old hub, then you have your answer.Drums typically have machining specs listed on the outer edge as MAX DIA but on old drums in road salt states you may not be able to read it.
https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Toyota-Celica-Corolla-ECHO-MR2-1999-05/Specifications/Specifications/_/P-0996b43f8038037a
As you can see on the chart, the drum’s inside diameter should not exceed 7.91 inchesYou can look up all of your past Rockauto orders on their website to see which parts you ordered.
Though the shipping box would say Rockauto, the actual part’s box would say Moog or whatever brand you bought.I hope you pulled the front wheels off to make sure the pads are OK.
More than one person has gotten fooled into thinking a noise was from the rear when it actually was coming from the front.Yes, some codes prevent other I/M readiness tests from running.
I believe you misunderstand the Texas smog inspection rules.
You are allowed to have 1 readiness monitor that did not run.
You are not allowed to have any emissions codes.You’ll have to fix the P0442 before you can pass the inspection.
In many cases it’s the gas cap not sealing but there’s no guarantee that that is the issue. Since you’re in a rather hot climate, it wouldn’t be surprising if the seal has dried out somewhat..
Some people have had success by cleaning the gas cap seal and the filler tube surface, then coating the gas cap o ring with Vaseline.
Barring that, you can either get it smoke tested to pinpoint the leak or for less than $15 you can take a gamble and buy a new ACDelco gas cap.The center of the hub is supposed to keep the drum centered.
If you were sold the wrong hub, so the drum doesn’t stay centered, that would cause an issue.
You’d have to either compare the old hub to the new one or look up the part application for yourself to ensure it’s a match.
Impossible if you didn’t save the old part and have no record of the brand and part number of the replacement part.If it is the right hub, then pull the drum off and make sure that the parking brake cable is routed properly in place behind its tab and that none of the hardware is damaged(such as springs bent or stretched, etc.).
See pictures here, such as the one labeled Lower Spring in Place;
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-Corolla-Rear-Drum-Brake-Shoes-Replacement-Guide/index.htmlOf course, the rear drum may actually have worn out of round from the old hub being bad.
You’d be wise to also make sure that the wheel cylinder isn’t leaking.
A TSB is not a recall.
Unfortunately, this also means that Honda will not give you any parts for free.
I’m not aware of any alternative to the Honda line.Start by checking all the fuses in all the fuse boxes–both under hood and any that are in the passenger compartment.
If those are all OK, your best bet is to have a shop that specializes in auto AC have a look at it.Amazon sells the genuine Honda brand DW-1 .
If you have Prime, it pays.
If not, a Honda dealer may be the better option.Glad you finally got the drum off.
I hope reassembly goes far smoother for you!Not sure from the pics how deep the groove is where the shoes slide against the backing plate, but you might need to replace the backing plate.
Left upper looks kind of deep.
See here starting around 5 min 54 seconds to see what I meanIt sounds like you have found at least part of the problem with the frozen slide pin.
A sliding caliper that can’t slide back and forth is going to be problematic.
The fact that the guide pin was seized on a car that has already had the brakes serviced 3x in the past year with only 10K driven smacks of poor quality servicing. (Unless you’re talking about the threaded bolt being tough to remove from the sliding part of the 2 piece slide pin.)You should also check the rear brakes to be sure they’re functioning properly.
Rear brakes are responsible for 30% of the braking and , if not working, the front brakes must absorb that extra 30% of work–which wears the front brakes out faster.The pads and rotors should be changed at the same time, the rotors cleaned of shipping oil with brake cleaner spray before installing, all hardware cleaned, the slide pins cleaned and lubricated with silicone paste, anti-seize on the clean pad contact points as shown in the ETCG video link, damaged hardware should be replaced as needed.
If you read this and watch the video, you should be good for some time with the front brakes after you service them.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems/disc-brake-serviceIt doesn’t pay to buy the cheapest pads and rotors , either.
You don’t need premium/”super-special” pads/rotors–just good original equipment pads and rotors will do or a reasonable substitute like any of the parts listed in Rockauto’s “Daily Driver” parts list .On a 12 year old vehicle, it would be wise to replace the old brake fluid, unless it has been done in the past year or two.
Use the brake fluid type specified in your owner’s manual, as different types of brake fluid don’t mix.There are some people who are naturally harder on brakes; a driver who is very nervous and applies the brake very frequently or rides the brake lightly at all times overheats the brakes, causing pulsating and wear issues.
Making a very strong panic stop can deposit a chunk of brake friction material on the rotors–but it’s still better than having an accident.
Some models of cars do go through brakes faster than others–likely due to engineering issues.There can be other oddball issues but it sounds like your vehicle may just need a carefully done brake job with good quality parts.
Go to 4Seasons own website catalog and make sure the compressor really is the right one.
Typically included with the new compressor, in a bag with detailed instructions on which ones to use, are new washers.
These may be thicker than the originals to allow the manifold hose to seat.
Contact 4 Seasons support.If KYB makes only 1 strut design, with no exceptions listed for different manufacturing dates, then they seem to have settled on a design which will fit all of the 94 Taurus Sedans.
It is not surprising that the people at KYB don’t have any specific details on Ford’s mid-year manufacturing change, since KYB makes only 1 rear strut for your vehicle.
More likely than not, no one at KYB is going to have any idea as to any strut engineering decisions that were made back in 1993-94.As for Monroe…since they appear to be identical, logically, if you are determined to learn the exact differences between the 2 Monroe models, your options are;
Click on the Info button on Rockauto’s website to see the manufacturing specs
OR
Look up the specifications on Monroe’s website
OR
Contact Monroe and ask them what the differences are.As for whether or not the KYBs will fit your particular application, I am confident that they will.
Fuel and spark aren’t enough IF the fuel pressure is too low, the injectors aren’t opening , the spark is weak or the spark plugs are too worn/incorrectly gapped to fire.
At 19 years old, the spark plug wires can certainly be bad.
The Ignition Control Module typically goes bad if a coil burns out and isn’t replaced in short order.
Don’t forget to check out all the fuses.
Fuses control the injectors and some sensors.The vacuum lines connect to some crucial items for the fuel mixture; the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP sensor.
Need to be sure these lines aren’t cracked, broken or disconnected.Sometimes MAF sensors fail and cause a no start, without a code.
Unplug the MAF and see if it starts.
If it does, you can clean it with MAF sensor spray cleaner , get a new Denso MAF or a junkyard MAF and clean it with MAF sensor cleaner.Another common failure is the plastic upper intake manifold as well as the intake manifold gaskets–both upper and lower.
The coolant can leak into the cylinders and hydrolock the engine.
Usually, you will find that you need to refill or keep topping off the coolant reservoir when the intake gaskets are going.If the battery has gotten run down enough to send low voltage to sensors & the ECM or the spark plugs fouled with fuel with repeated attempts to start, that can cause the no start .
This should help you
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-a-no-start-condition-1I would only use the spark plugs that the owner’s manual recommends.
You did not tell me what year your Del Sol is, so it may be that the proper spark plug is different in other years.The distributor shaft play that would be a concern would be side to side movement .
What I truly think is that the diagnosis is a process of elimination.
I have provided a number of links to help you in this process.
This link has a number of pages to guide you through this process.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/performance-issuesYou always must start by examining the normal maintenance items (air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, ignition wires, spark plugs , cap and rotor), which also includes the ignition timing adjustment.
If those are all OK, you then begin to examine other things.You said that the car has been this way since you purchased it, so you don’t know what could have happened to cause the problems.
I also do not know exactly which things you have done yourself and which things you were told had already been done.Fuel pressure and volume are certainly areas to examine.
If, for example, the fuel pressure regulator is allowing too much fuel into the engine, it can cause the issues you’re having.
It will cause black smoke from the tailpipe because the fuel mixture is too rich.
A leak down test would not be a bad idea, just to ensure that the valves are sealing properly and were not/did not become too tightly adjusted.
ETCG ‘s solving performance issues, linked above, describes the procedure.A body shop or junkyard will have an index of which parts will interchange.
They are Hollander numbers and databases.From what I can determine with the limited vehicle info you provided—those are the wrong NGK spark plugs– they are 1 heat range too cold for that engine, if it truly is the D16Y8
http://www.briskusa.com/spark_plug_cross_reference_heat_range_chartThis link shows the correct spark plug number, which begins with Z, not B
https://www.ngk.com/Automotive-NGK-c1411.aspx
Yes, a code should be set for a failing sensor but it does not always happen.
The ignition timing has a strong effect on how the fuel burns, so that could be the problem.
Just be sure to jumper whatever needs to be jumpered or disconnect whatever must be disconnected before setting the timing.I did tell you how to test for an exhaust blockage earlier because it could be at least a part of the trouble.
If the car did this since you bought it, the timing belt could have been installed wrong or the valves could be leaking.
It all comes down to testing and inspecting everything.These ETCG pages should also help you
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/performance-issuesI forgot to say that I’m really not sure what is or isn’t wrong inside the distributor cap.
There is oxidation on the contacts and I’m not sure whether there’s an indication of misfires or it may just be sloppy manufacturing–but it does look unusual.
It may be worthwhile to replace the cap and rotor with a good quality part and that might resolve the problems.Check the distributor shaft for excessive movement.
If there is oil inside the distributor, you will have to replace the o rings.I t is known that aftermarket (not Honda brand) distributors are known to cause problems.
It’s certainly difficult to diagnose distributor issues without an oscilloscope or high quality scan tool.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/notes-on-honda-ignition-systems-and-aftermarket-parts