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It will be kind of hard to notice it since it’s intermittent and so hard to hear from under the hood (it’s noticeable in the car moreso, you feel the shudders through the wheel and seat)
It just looks bad, but I wouldn’t worry about it – My 302 has “jagged” edge holes just like that in the lifter valley. Imperfect castings, unless you find more evidence to the contrary (metal fragments etc)
check out http://www.sbftech.com – best site out there for small block ford info.
It would work great on some cars but not at all on others that I’ve seen. considering that my 7/8″ o2 sensor socket cost me about 25 bucks, though, this one would be a worthwhile investment even if I only used it a couple of times.
clear flood mode = WOT/foot to the floor. simply cracking the throttle won’t put it there.
To me it sounds like your IAC is questionable. Not starting unless the pedal is depressed = no air getting past the throttle plate, and not staying running unless you keep your foot there makes me think the ECU can’t control the pintle movements in your idle air valve.
To clean your MAF you don’t *need* MAF sensor cleaner. Any non residue electronics cleaner will work. I’ve used rubbing alcohol and I’ve used carb cleaner…many things.
If you can, I would pressure test the cooling system and check for any signs at all of intake gasket leaks. The dirtyonehundred V6 is notorious for OEM gaskets going south.
Does your check engine light illuminate when you first turn the key forward (but don’t start the car)? All cars do a bulb test with the key on engine off. You’ll know if it’s functioning or not.
Quoted From skim3544:
As long as you follow the same order, and take out and reinstall (torque to the spec) one head bolt at a time you should be fine
they are torque to yield, not to spec. ……i think
It doesn’t look rotten at all (biggest reason to replace exhaust)….you could definitely have that welded up and perhaps bent slightly out of the way
I have been told it is nothing more than straight 80 weight oil and some detergents/soaps. Great for cars with a few miles and perhaps questionable main clearances.
Doesn’t really matter. Any kind of motor oil should be fine. Just give it 2 squirts in the offending cylinder.
If you want to do some further testing on the TPS
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=30
Lots of good stuff there.
We get -40 and worse here. Strictly speaking about comfort If I don’t feel like sitting in a -40* car for the majority of my commute (a car with a load on it may heat up quicker…but that’s still not very fast) I will start it and go back in the house.
Mechanically speaking? Start it, wait for the idle to stabilize, 20-30 seconds at most if it’s real cold probably, then drive away. don’t put your foot in it until you’ve got it up to operating temp. Of course if you can’t see where you’re going..
Unless you’re dropping the tank to replace the pump/pickup assembly due to it not working properly, just disconnect the fuel line somewhere near the tank and energize the fuel pump – if you’re going to run it right off of the battery make sure you FUSE IT!