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Do you have access to an oscilloscope or even a fast graphing multimeter? I would look at the cam and crank sensor and see if you’re inputs are good. I would also look at the secondary ignition waveform and see how it looks. It’s either an issue with fuel or spark, so it could be an input problem from the crank/cam, or an issue with ignition or fuel. If you don’t have access to a 5 gas analyzer, there is a little trick you can do to see if it might be a fuel issue. Start it in your garage and see how much it stinks. If it’s an ignition issue, it will probably stink of gas real quick because fuel will be spraying and not igniting. If it’s an input issue, eg. the injectors and spark is not firing, it should smell normal, or if it’s and injector issue, which I don’t think it is, your spark will be firing with no fuel. A secondary ignition waveform will be able to tell us a lot about this.
If you don’t have access to these tools, it might be a worth while investment to get an hour or two of diagnostic time at a shop that has the tools, and also has the knowledge of how to interpret these waveforms.
Do you have access to an oscilloscope or even a fast graphing multimeter? I would look at the cam and crank sensor and see if you’re inputs are good. I would also look at the secondary ignition waveform and see how it looks. It’s either an issue with fuel or spark, so it could be an input problem from the crank/cam, or an issue with ignition or fuel. If you don’t have access to a 5 gas analyzer, there is a little trick you can do to see if it might be a fuel issue. Start it in your garage and see how much it stinks. If it’s an ignition issue, it will probably stink of gas real quick because fuel will be spraying and not igniting. If it’s an input issue, eg. the injectors and spark is not firing, it should smell normal, or if it’s and injector issue, which I don’t think it is, your spark will be firing with no fuel. A secondary ignition waveform will be able to tell us a lot about this.
If you don’t have access to these tools, it might be a worth while investment to get an hour or two of diagnostic time at a shop that has the tools, and also has the knowledge of how to interpret these waveforms.
Can you bring me up to speed with the complaint and all the things you have done so far? I see you have torque, and that will be helpful in the diagnosis. What are you’re LTFT’s and STFT’s like at idle, and under load?
Can you bring me up to speed with the complaint and all the things you have done so far? I see you have torque, and that will be helpful in the diagnosis. What are you’re LTFT’s and STFT’s like at idle, and under load?
This smells like to me a wiring harness issue. Can you explain in more detail about what happens, or when it happens? Does the engine run good? Any history on when this started? Is your battery good? Let us know so we can try to help you diagnose this.
This smells like to me a wiring harness issue. Can you explain in more detail about what happens, or when it happens? Does the engine run good? Any history on when this started? Is your battery good? Let us know so we can try to help you diagnose this.
Hello Silveram, thanks for your input.
I do have a slight lean condition, mainly on bank 2, drivers side. I have around a 13% long term fuel trim at idle, that drops at RPM raise. I know I have an exhaust leak on that bank, I believe to be in the exhaust manifold. I have yet to get under and verify 100%, but I am pretty darn sure. I need to fix that before I can go after any other issue. I have a feeling my scantool is giving me false data on injector 1, and that there is no open or short in that injector wiring or computer driver, but it could be, have to get another, better scan tool to verify.
Once I fix the exhaust leak on bank 1, and replace the small grommet that the PCV hose connects to that is a bit loose on drivers side valve cover, I will be able to further diagnose the issue.
I don’t see how higher octane fuel would help if you have a lean condition.
Hello Silveram, thanks for your input.
I do have a slight lean condition, mainly on bank 2, drivers side. I have around a 13% long term fuel trim at idle, that drops at RPM raise. I know I have an exhaust leak on that bank, I believe to be in the exhaust manifold. I have yet to get under and verify 100%, but I am pretty darn sure. I need to fix that before I can go after any other issue. I have a feeling my scantool is giving me false data on injector 1, and that there is no open or short in that injector wiring or computer driver, but it could be, have to get another, better scan tool to verify.
Once I fix the exhaust leak on bank 1, and replace the small grommet that the PCV hose connects to that is a bit loose on drivers side valve cover, I will be able to further diagnose the issue.
I don’t see how higher octane fuel would help if you have a lean condition.
Parts guys are parts guys, they are not mechanics. Not to offend any parts guys, but it’s not their job to check for fitment or application of said parts, just to get you the parts. I still would highly recommend alldata, as for $10/year you can get a searchable online FSM that you will never loose/get dirty.
Parts guys are parts guys, they are not mechanics. Not to offend any parts guys, but it’s not their job to check for fitment or application of said parts, just to get you the parts. I still would highly recommend alldata, as for $10/year you can get a searchable online FSM that you will never loose/get dirty.
It’s probably just anti-seize compound, nothing to be to worried about. Some people put it on the threads of spark plugs to make them easier to get out when they need to. The idea is that the steel that the spark plug threads are made of can chemically react with the aluminum head, causing damage on removal. If the manufacturer of the engine calls for anti-seize on the spark plugs, make sure to just put a very small coating on the threads, making sure not to contact the porcelain or electrode.
As for the oil pan, some cars don’t have gaskets, and just call for RTV. This is something you have to check for in the Factory Service Manual, or FSM. You can buy one from the manufacturer, or I recommend AllData (http://www.alldatadiy.com/). They have the FSM, but all online and searchable, and updated with the latest TSB’s, or Technical Service Bulletins.
Are you saying the threads on the oil pan drain bolt are gone? If so, how did the plug stay in?
EDIT: Also, if you do end up using alldata, you can get a year for $9.95 with the coupon code NEWDIY2013
It’s probably just anti-seize compound, nothing to be to worried about. Some people put it on the threads of spark plugs to make them easier to get out when they need to. The idea is that the steel that the spark plug threads are made of can chemically react with the aluminum head, causing damage on removal. If the manufacturer of the engine calls for anti-seize on the spark plugs, make sure to just put a very small coating on the threads, making sure not to contact the porcelain or electrode.
As for the oil pan, some cars don’t have gaskets, and just call for RTV. This is something you have to check for in the Factory Service Manual, or FSM. You can buy one from the manufacturer, or I recommend AllData (http://www.alldatadiy.com/). They have the FSM, but all online and searchable, and updated with the latest TSB’s, or Technical Service Bulletins.
Are you saying the threads on the oil pan drain bolt are gone? If so, how did the plug stay in?
EDIT: Also, if you do end up using alldata, you can get a year for $9.95 with the coupon code NEWDIY2013
If you have a laptop running windows, you can get a fairly inexpensive scan tool to read live data. I would recommend http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-423001-ElmScan-Diagnostic-Software/dp/B002PYBZJO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391118306&sr=8-5&keywords=obd2+usb
You can get cheaper ones, but they are generally not very good, it’s crap shoot with the copies in china. But that one comes with OBDWiz software that will allow you to view a decent about of generic obd2 data. You should be able to use it to view throttle position, and see if that is your issue. You will want to see a smooth increase of throttle position as you step on the accelerator, if you see jumpy readings, you will know your TPS is probably at fault. If not, you will have to dive deeper.
I would recommend looking at fuel trips, great video on that: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRX2V6_a3dc