Compare list 0

[dosmastr]

https://youtu.be/ LpNoP02FUzA

[dosmastr]

[quote=”DaCoder” post=158850][quote=”dosmastr” post=158847]I know i should have taken the long way but I was already late for work and other times the car has done fine through 5-6inches of water. This time it was 8 or 10 inches. I got through it just fine but after going to shift into 2nd on the other side the whole car shook something awful as the clutch grabbed. Could feel it jumping each of those fingers in the clutch. Same thing to a lesser extent in 3rd. Once the car warmed up it was almost normal in 2nd and above. First gear I need to burn the clutch a little to not have the car shake, especially when the engine is still cold.

Is this likely a result of water getting into the tyranny through a vent or something? Or did cold water hit a warm (but not up to op temp) part and do something to it that damaged the plate or fingers.

It seemed to get better as the day went on but I would appreciate any educated guesses on what’s going on and if I need to take action (like draining and refilling the tranny) to prevent worse malfunction or damage.

Thanks guys,
Andrew[/quote]

Wait a day or so and see if it goes away, I bet its just the clutch got wet.[/quote]

Thanks guys!
Largely you were right. some days it still hits a little hard unless I try to burn it a little but you were right, next day it was 90% better.

I thought it was in the bellhousing which was sealed though, its not sealed? lol?

[dosmastr]

Did not find pirate air when Checked last

[dosmastr]

The other day while accelerating to 70 merging onto interstate the car missed for solid 30 seconds, check engine light flashing, then for no discernable reason, it stopped misbehaving, CEL went out and acted like nothing happened…

The next day the advance auto guy said the ECU didn’t store any codes… first if I had a better reader might there be something useful be saved aside from codes?

I had a friend plug in his laptop with obd2 software a week before flashing cel incident….. the ECU thinks everything is running perfectly, not one single misfire on any cylinder (it even had a hiccup while plugged in! No codes.) These modern car computers sure seem awfully stupid and inept.

Aside from fixing this particular car, whose bozo idea was it to specify obd2 did not need to store ANY codes about a flashing CEL event? I really can’t see any good reason for that to NOT be documented by ECU.

[dosmastr]

2008 Honda fit 1.5L auto 113K miles

Its acting different than the Subaru Eric was working on. the plugs are Denso (the OEM)… don’t appear worn.

[dosmastr]

ok I’ll grab some carb clean and start spraying around. Much rather do that then start guessing which coil at 55bucks a pop.
Thanks

[dosmastr]

[quote=”Bluesnut” post=142519]Chiltons is the worst and Haynes the second worst due to inaccuracies and very shallow, repeated, generic information.
.[/quote]

Second on the generic info!!

Chiltons *appeared* to be geared more to electrical for my prizm and civic but I only used it once or twice.

They guys over at fitfanatic are…fanatics.. of “Helms” manuals. I’d never heard of them.
I have heard if you need part equivalencies a Hollander manual can’t be beat.

Then you have the factory tech manuals.. worth the cost?

Anyone else? Had hoped this would become sort of a repository for people….

[dosmastr]

The curious thing is there isnt a detectable amount of brake fade.
I would think if they were as hot as the wheel feels, that the stopping power would be impacted.

After lubing up all the pad contact points (looks like whoever did the brake job less than 5k ago didn’t have any grease….), its reduced but now I have no baseline…. even my civic with the Al wheels get hotter than I thought they would, and I know they function well, its my daily driver.

As far as wifie’s fit, I can’t smell the tires after a drive anymore so theres that LOL. im planning on replacing the uh… what is that hardware called? slide clips? the “springs” that hold the pad itself in that are very smooth and should be greased… anyway, planning to replace those and lube them up good. See if that makes it even better.

While I do that I’ll pull out my C-Clamp and try to retract the calipers a little.

This site really is a gem. the fit fanatic site was 0 help.

[dosmastr]

I’m now not sure if the heat level is normal or not… All my other cars has rims that seems to really dissipate the heat (except that one time…)

These steelies… Hmm I think im going to do some laps and only use the parking brake to stop.. See if the front is still hot

[dosmastr]

Thanks college,

I was afraid the next step was the calipers…

Shiet… Off to advanced auto… Napa closed for day

[dosmastr]

I got it back in, but I didn’t have much choice. I had to leave for work in a half hour and a round trip jog to the auto parts store (which probably wouldn’t have had what I needed) would’ve run that whole 30 minutes (no install time). Not sure if I used the wrong sized nut installing the cat or what but I used a 1/2″ socket, not the 13mm that the others were… it just fit more snugly. That said, if I had the time and knew I could get the correct stud, I would have.

I’m hopeful I won’t need to touch it ever again. The mani-cat is a Genuine OEM which I replaced just 3 years ago, the down pipe I just did. The original mani-cat lasted over 10 years, and car just rolled over 200k (leaking oil and tranny gear oil, but still running well)

hmm that reminds me… i should top off the trannys oil again soon.

sounds like I got pretty lucky heh

[dosmastr]

I was really scared the pressure from the crush gasket would strip the “bolt” but nope it went in and on just fine

thanks much sir!

[dosmastr]

Top to bottom:
what should have come off.
What DID come off.
The only bolt I have that is close to the size needed

Attachments:

• 1429806546033765107028.jpg

[dosmastr]

napa didn’t have in stock and needed it done./… been driving wifes car for a week…. i see auto zone as last resort, just slightly below pep boys. one click on the e brake and i feel drag, let it go and i think it lets go 100%…..

replace the part that looks fine! thats the solution!
UGH… drove it around block several times, and I think it wasn’t tightening. went back and forth on my service street several times too before I had them adjusted just right (prior, it didn’t matter if they started right or not…. then ended very tight…. so hopefully)

Thanks Barn!

[dosmastr]

Barneyb, thanks for the input.

I grabbed a new self adjuster today…. Auto zone doesn’t have a very high quality part though…much more play between the wheel and short clevis and also the short clevis and the shoe…even the new parts the arm moves and grips the star wheel like the old, just sometimes the arm will scrape past the new wheel and sometimes catch just a tiny bit of it.
The new clevis also has a slightly larger gap where it hits the shoe, might use new star wheel but old short end.

I’m beginning to wonder if its got something to do with the metal part of the shoe being too thin, allowing play into the whole assembly… but old shoes were just as thin….

What would be really epic is if someone had a video of a drum with the face that touches the wheel removed (so where the shoes hit is still there but you can see everything working) because it looks like the arm always is moving whenever the brakes are applied, just the new one doesn’t contact the wheel 100% of the time like the old one did. Tried to simulate what hitting brakes while in reverse would do…it doesn’t adjust that way.. only seems to hit when the shoe at a slight angle, which happens in my hand but shouldn’t while on the car.

hoping im missing something, will put on new adjuster tomorrow and report back

[Author]

Replies