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[dosmastr]

Hi Karl,

Thanks for the heads up. I did not know that about either of those motors.
Mine being a 1.6L ….. I’ve seen a couple crack-pot looking sites that say running the engine hotter than recommended (using a higher heat thermostat) somehow improves fuel economy (if it were that simple, and had no trade-offs I’m sure the OEM’s would do it) Perhaps there is a small bit of truth to it and thats why toyota had them run hotter?

I guess I was looking at it overly simplistically, thinking if it was burning oil it would have to be oil slipping past the rings.

I did try lucas oil stabilizer, no discernible effect. (I did have a subaru once that sounded awful and lucas did make a huge difference… so far he is the only car of mine to experience any different though)

Maybe the one I had (back in 2004 to 2007, 96K to 166K) had been rebuilt or was a gem or something, he never used a drop! (I did baby the hell out of that car, changed the oil every 2500 miles..shouldn’t have texted while driving…) That being said, I’ve had 2 cars and 3 motors since then and they ALL sure do like to eat oil — though this one is the first one that does it without a huge external leak assisting in the uh..disappearance. (other times I figured it was just 100% leaking)

Reading up now on what exactly is piston ring sticking (sticking the the piston but not rubbing the cylinder wall — hmm learn something new every day) Didn’t know you could have something like that without compression loss, but I just read that if its the “oil control ring” that can be the case. (more news to me 🙂 )

How hard are the valve seals to replace?

[dosmastr]

just for anoyone else who finds this. Advance auto WILL price match summitracing.com but do it thorugh the advance website not the manager at the store. manager won’t match a deal thats too good, the reps from advance corporate on the other hand, will. 69 bucks later!

[dosmastr]

just for anoyone else who finds this. Advance auto WILL price match summitracing.com but do it thorugh the advance website not the manager at the store. manager won’t match a deal thats too good, the reps from advance corporate on the other hand, will. 69 bucks later!

[dosmastr]

I love how on summit I found 2 “Direct fit”

Core Height (in) 13.750 in. 13.750 in.
[b]Core Thickness (in) 1.000 in. 1.250 in.
Core Width (in) 27.500 in. 27.062 in.[/b]
Fan Included No No
Inlet Location Center upper Center driver side

I understand its got some wiggle room but I think when most laypeople say direct fit, they mean its the exact same size, shape, etc of the OE part.

[dosmastr]

I love how on summit I found 2 “Direct fit”

Core Height (in) 13.750 in. 13.750 in.
[b]Core Thickness (in) 1.000 in. 1.250 in.
Core Width (in) 27.500 in. 27.062 in.[/b]
Fan Included No No
Inlet Location Center upper Center driver side

I understand its got some wiggle room but I think when most laypeople say direct fit, they mean its the exact same size, shape, etc of the OE part.

[dosmastr]

Well according the other forums ready-rad (sold by advanced) are not very good… of course if you sell 10k of them and 1% fail thats alot of people b*tchin

advance also sells “tough one” brand.. but I wonder if its just readyrad rebranded because its one listing “readyrad or tough one” for $97.

see what I can see on rockauto (I did email readyrad already)

[dosmastr]

Well according the other forums ready-rad (sold by advanced) are not very good… of course if you sell 10k of them and 1% fail thats alot of people b*tchin

advance also sells “tough one” brand.. but I wonder if its just readyrad rebranded because its one listing “readyrad or tough one” for $97.

see what I can see on rockauto (I did email readyrad already)

[dosmastr]

heat it up to let the thromostat open…. derp…I’m having a derp moment….

Now that you mention it… yeah I really would prefer to pay now rather than drain again later.

Its funny, for years (before I started working on the car myself) I brought the car to the mechanic early — thinking if part A failed it could take a bunch of other stuff with it. And it never happened… and he made fun of me for it.. and now that I’ve gotten out of the mindset, I get a failure that actually is of that nature (cooling system fault = more possibly cooling system parts being damaged) fun. lol.

air in passages of car, same as air in blood of human, EMBOLISM!

I’ll check out rad pro… I think we’ve learned that if there is a fault that has the car overheating, the turn the heater to full blast trick… won’t help in this case lol.

I bet in this car the heater core is the highest point, the hoses are level with the valve cover, I’ll be adding a giant yellow funnel to my tool chest I guess.

My honda was wierd when I changed out the rad (which was an ebay one…which is now minimally leaking out the port that would be for the auto trans fluid cooler… had I used that on an auto trans I think I’d really be paying for it sooner or later)…But when I went to drain the system, the rad drained but the block stayed almost completely full.

Rad pro huh, I’ll check em out.
Also of anecdotal interest, looks like the 1.6L corolla motor is paired with a much larger (like 40% larger) rad than my 1.6L civic. both use about the same amount of fuel per mile (so it isn’t one is better at making gas turn into heat rather than turn into….go…. lol)

Speaking of no warning catastrophic failures, I had an oil filter pop off as I was driving through a bouncy yard. (long story…) car drove a half mile down the road, then stalled. (should’ve checked it at this point I know…)said huh… maybe I spilled oil and it went into a plug?? Started it up again to see what happens — it turned over and fired just as normal…. ok maybe it just had to burn some oil out of the plug connection…. drove another quarter mile, then needed more and more gas pedal to keep moving, then stalled again. pulled over and just after I stopped smoke billowed out from under the hood.

The oil light never came on. (if it had I would’ve been like OK WAIT A SEC!) Motor still ran once we got oil in there again, but had piston slap (and who knows what else I couldn’t hear), and though my Father in law(car guy) and his mechanic both said “run it and see what happens, might get another year or more out of it” That… was not acceptable to my lady (can’t really blame her)

Thank you for your patience and the information, both are appreciated.

Tom, with regard to your sig. I had to replace a wheel/lug stud once… after hitting it with a 16oz hammer for 10min my father in law grabbed a huge one and hit it once “There ya go!” LOL

[dosmastr]

heat it up to let the thromostat open…. derp…I’m having a derp moment….

Now that you mention it… yeah I really would prefer to pay now rather than drain again later.

Its funny, for years (before I started working on the car myself) I brought the car to the mechanic early — thinking if part A failed it could take a bunch of other stuff with it. And it never happened… and he made fun of me for it.. and now that I’ve gotten out of the mindset, I get a failure that actually is of that nature (cooling system fault = more possibly cooling system parts being damaged) fun. lol.

air in passages of car, same as air in blood of human, EMBOLISM!

I’ll check out rad pro… I think we’ve learned that if there is a fault that has the car overheating, the turn the heater to full blast trick… won’t help in this case lol.

I bet in this car the heater core is the highest point, the hoses are level with the valve cover, I’ll be adding a giant yellow funnel to my tool chest I guess.

My honda was wierd when I changed out the rad (which was an ebay one…which is now minimally leaking out the port that would be for the auto trans fluid cooler… had I used that on an auto trans I think I’d really be paying for it sooner or later)…But when I went to drain the system, the rad drained but the block stayed almost completely full.

Rad pro huh, I’ll check em out.
Also of anecdotal interest, looks like the 1.6L corolla motor is paired with a much larger (like 40% larger) rad than my 1.6L civic. both use about the same amount of fuel per mile (so it isn’t one is better at making gas turn into heat rather than turn into….go…. lol)

Speaking of no warning catastrophic failures, I had an oil filter pop off as I was driving through a bouncy yard. (long story…) car drove a half mile down the road, then stalled. (should’ve checked it at this point I know…)said huh… maybe I spilled oil and it went into a plug?? Started it up again to see what happens — it turned over and fired just as normal…. ok maybe it just had to burn some oil out of the plug connection…. drove another quarter mile, then needed more and more gas pedal to keep moving, then stalled again. pulled over and just after I stopped smoke billowed out from under the hood.

The oil light never came on. (if it had I would’ve been like OK WAIT A SEC!) Motor still ran once we got oil in there again, but had piston slap (and who knows what else I couldn’t hear), and though my Father in law(car guy) and his mechanic both said “run it and see what happens, might get another year or more out of it” That… was not acceptable to my lady (can’t really blame her)

Thank you for your patience and the information, both are appreciated.

Tom, with regard to your sig. I had to replace a wheel/lug stud once… after hitting it with a 16oz hammer for 10min my father in law grabbed a huge one and hit it once “There ya go!” LOL

[dosmastr]

I think you guys are misunderstanding me.
I do have a tendency to be unclear.

Any perception that I am trying to repair NOTHING is incorrect.

Tom you appeared to initially be claiming the cap being loose was the problem, I was merely explaining that this was not the initial cause of the issue.

All I was saying was that in reply to “I would start over with a new… …,T-stat,
hoses,cap”
the hoses are fine,
the tstat also appears fine,
Rad cap also appears to be fine
therefor replacing them at this point (when there is an obvious defect which fixing my alleviate ALL issues) appeared to be a waste of money — unless all the issues aren’t solved by replacing the rad and bleeding it.

I don’t deny that failures in any of those components is more than just a bad day… I guess I’m just of the mindset that any of those failures will give warnings that can be heeded to avoid the costly repair.
Then again… this is the wife’s car…lol

Everything beyond that I was merely asking questions to learn more, or clarifying appeared to be misunderstandings about exactly what I had going on.
If any of that came off as argumentative I ask that you understand nothing could be further from the truth.

With that being said I would like to offer a little push back to Tomh though:
“If the thermostat is stuck full closed, will the car not warm up quickly?”
Yes, and likely overheat too right? But what it does is sits at op temp once its warm, just like every other 1.6L corolla motor I’ve had (I’ve had 4 of them, 3 cars and replaced the motor in current one)

“Stuck part open”, well I suppose you got me on that one, I’ll check it out, but the guy who had the motor before me looked to have been pretty good with reg shed maint.

Do the auto parts stores have a thing to test the rad cap?

Today I learned that a tiny amount of air in one system can make a boatload of difference while a similar car may seem fine while being in far worse shape regarding air in the cooling system.

Questions: is the rad filler neck typically the highest point in the system? I definitely could see the need for the funnel if not. Anyone know if a 1.6L mid 90’s corolla motor has a bleeder valve? I didn’t immediately see one.

Raistian — his temp gauge didn’t alert him he was cooking his motor?
Distilled water vs tap a huge deal? I’ve heard so long as the system doesn’t get compromised (as mine HAS) tap water doesn’t matter cause the impurities only form deposits when air is present. I’ve heard that but I’m not saying I believe it yet.

I’m not just adding water I have antifreeze too, but it seems to leak to a point and then no more even with the cap on tight, guess its got air down to the lowest leak and just blows that out…and sucks it back in once cool….

Both times (replaced the rad in my car, and now i’ll have to do my wifes) its been where the aluminium meets the plastic that the leak begins… why the hell can’t I just pay 25% more for 10% additional aluminium for a 100% aluminium unit! Sheesh! Its enough to make me want to try and weld together something. (I would fail, I know)

one last question:
other than the ability to exchange locally how is an advanced auto rad going to be better than an ebay one if the both has a lifetime warranty? I’m probably going to buy the advance one just for peace of mind, but I’d appreciate some additional pushes over the 2X cost hump.

Oh one more stupid question. coolant expands as heated yes? why is making sure the car warms enough to kick on the fan important? I would think when it cools off after being at op temp, and sure there was no more air would be the time to be darn sure it was full. OR is it more along the lines of running the car the long ensures all the air is out and that it heats up is secondary?

[dosmastr]

I think you guys are misunderstanding me.
I do have a tendency to be unclear.

Any perception that I am trying to repair NOTHING is incorrect.

Tom you appeared to initially be claiming the cap being loose was the problem, I was merely explaining that this was not the initial cause of the issue.

All I was saying was that in reply to “I would start over with a new… …,T-stat,
hoses,cap”
the hoses are fine,
the tstat also appears fine,
Rad cap also appears to be fine
therefor replacing them at this point (when there is an obvious defect which fixing my alleviate ALL issues) appeared to be a waste of money — unless all the issues aren’t solved by replacing the rad and bleeding it.

I don’t deny that failures in any of those components is more than just a bad day… I guess I’m just of the mindset that any of those failures will give warnings that can be heeded to avoid the costly repair.
Then again… this is the wife’s car…lol

Everything beyond that I was merely asking questions to learn more, or clarifying appeared to be misunderstandings about exactly what I had going on.
If any of that came off as argumentative I ask that you understand nothing could be further from the truth.

With that being said I would like to offer a little push back to Tomh though:
“If the thermostat is stuck full closed, will the car not warm up quickly?”
Yes, and likely overheat too right? But what it does is sits at op temp once its warm, just like every other 1.6L corolla motor I’ve had (I’ve had 4 of them, 3 cars and replaced the motor in current one)

“Stuck part open”, well I suppose you got me on that one, I’ll check it out, but the guy who had the motor before me looked to have been pretty good with reg shed maint.

Do the auto parts stores have a thing to test the rad cap?

Today I learned that a tiny amount of air in one system can make a boatload of difference while a similar car may seem fine while being in far worse shape regarding air in the cooling system.

Questions: is the rad filler neck typically the highest point in the system? I definitely could see the need for the funnel if not. Anyone know if a 1.6L mid 90’s corolla motor has a bleeder valve? I didn’t immediately see one.

Raistian — his temp gauge didn’t alert him he was cooking his motor?
Distilled water vs tap a huge deal? I’ve heard so long as the system doesn’t get compromised (as mine HAS) tap water doesn’t matter cause the impurities only form deposits when air is present. I’ve heard that but I’m not saying I believe it yet.

I’m not just adding water I have antifreeze too, but it seems to leak to a point and then no more even with the cap on tight, guess its got air down to the lowest leak and just blows that out…and sucks it back in once cool….

Both times (replaced the rad in my car, and now i’ll have to do my wifes) its been where the aluminium meets the plastic that the leak begins… why the hell can’t I just pay 25% more for 10% additional aluminium for a 100% aluminium unit! Sheesh! Its enough to make me want to try and weld together something. (I would fail, I know)

one last question:
other than the ability to exchange locally how is an advanced auto rad going to be better than an ebay one if the both has a lifetime warranty? I’m probably going to buy the advance one just for peace of mind, but I’d appreciate some additional pushes over the 2X cost hump.

Oh one more stupid question. coolant expands as heated yes? why is making sure the car warms enough to kick on the fan important? I would think when it cools off after being at op temp, and sure there was no more air would be the time to be darn sure it was full. OR is it more along the lines of running the car the long ensures all the air is out and that it heats up is secondary?

[dosmastr]

“I would start over with a new radiator,T-stat,
hoses,cap and flush of the cooling system. Refill with new coolant and
bleed the system.”

You sir, are a more well-to-do man than I! (well what do I expect you did goto college.)

I’ll fix the broken stuff, the rest waits til it breaks!

[dosmastr]

“I would start over with a new radiator,T-stat,
hoses,cap and flush of the cooling system. Refill with new coolant and
bleed the system.”

You sir, are a more well-to-do man than I! (well what do I expect you did goto college.)

I’ll fix the broken stuff, the rest waits til it breaks!

[dosmastr]

whats the point of the giant yellow funnel? I only spilled a little pouring it by hand 😛

[dosmastr]

whats the point of the giant yellow funnel? I only spilled a little pouring it by hand 😛

[Author]

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