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[dosmastr]

The cap wasn’t loosened until the leak was discovered. The leak was discovered 2 weeks AFTER the heater (mostly) stopped working.It may be the leak in the rad causing this but the cap is not the culprit.

I agree that fixing the radiator is a priority…. I still just don’t understand how thats the issue. My other car was far lower on coolant,– there was an inch of air in my radiator– and the heater was maybe 10% less than normal. Her car really wasn’t that low, I had to top off the radiator but that only took a cup or so of coolant. (OF course then again, after I filled the reservoir it only took 2 weeks to eat 3/4 of it so…. )

lovely, I get to be working on a cooling system in 40degree weather…

And can somebody still help me with the whole replace the thermostat idea, I always heard if the car warms up in a few minutes that little feller is just fine.

[dosmastr]

The cap wasn’t loosened until the leak was discovered. The leak was discovered 2 weeks AFTER the heater (mostly) stopped working.It may be the leak in the rad causing this but the cap is not the culprit.

I agree that fixing the radiator is a priority…. I still just don’t understand how thats the issue. My other car was far lower on coolant,– there was an inch of air in my radiator– and the heater was maybe 10% less than normal. Her car really wasn’t that low, I had to top off the radiator but that only took a cup or so of coolant. (OF course then again, after I filled the reservoir it only took 2 weeks to eat 3/4 of it so…. )

lovely, I get to be working on a cooling system in 40degree weather…

And can somebody still help me with the whole replace the thermostat idea, I always heard if the car warms up in a few minutes that little feller is just fine.

[dosmastr]

copy on the cap.

new rad is a given…

why thermostat? the motor gets to and stays at op temp fairly quickly

I don’t see how either of those solves the heater problem though. All the hoses are warm, so the system is flowing.

please help me understand.

[dosmastr]

copy on the cap.

new rad is a given…

why thermostat? the motor gets to and stays at op temp fairly quickly

I don’t see how either of those solves the heater problem though. All the hoses are warm, so the system is flowing.

please help me understand.

[dosmastr]

I love you guys.

so in a nut shell, cheapest safest (assuming the pro will cost less than the 100 dollar vacuum) way to do is:

1Have everything blown out,
2fix the system
R/R:
schrader valves
compressor
dryer
any/all O-rings

3 add the oil (where you specified)

4 and have a pro purge moisture and charge with refrigerant.

Well its certainly more than I thought it would be (just Replace compressor and charge it!) So I cant do it before I leave for vaca (24 hours!) but its still a project I think i’ll undertake.

but long run, .. well lets put it like this:

My civic does 34mpg on the worst day of its life (i ran late alot that week….and was driving angry too) and has been as high as 40 (replaced mani-Cat and oxygen sensor, best tank ever!) but typically does 36ish… wifes car, 94 prizm has a great little motor, but the 3 speed auto takes what would be equal to my civic (i know because i owned a MT prizm w same motor) and drops it to averaging 25… interestingly enough the prizm likes the warm weather so much that the losses due to running the AC are offset, and mpg is ruffly the same in fall and spring with no heat or AC as the summer with AC on half everywhere she goes… if I can get mine to do say 34, and we take THAT car everywhere, especially if gas goes up, i know i’ll come out ahead before the car dies heh.

Guys thank you so much seriously.

[dosmastr]

I love you guys.

so in a nut shell, cheapest safest (assuming the pro will cost less than the 100 dollar vacuum) way to do is:

1Have everything blown out,
2fix the system
R/R:
schrader valves
compressor
dryer
any/all O-rings

3 add the oil (where you specified)

4 and have a pro purge moisture and charge with refrigerant.

Well its certainly more than I thought it would be (just Replace compressor and charge it!) So I cant do it before I leave for vaca (24 hours!) but its still a project I think i’ll undertake.

but long run, .. well lets put it like this:

My civic does 34mpg on the worst day of its life (i ran late alot that week….and was driving angry too) and has been as high as 40 (replaced mani-Cat and oxygen sensor, best tank ever!) but typically does 36ish… wifes car, 94 prizm has a great little motor, but the 3 speed auto takes what would be equal to my civic (i know because i owned a MT prizm w same motor) and drops it to averaging 25… interestingly enough the prizm likes the warm weather so much that the losses due to running the AC are offset, and mpg is ruffly the same in fall and spring with no heat or AC as the summer with AC on half everywhere she goes… if I can get mine to do say 34, and we take THAT car everywhere, especially if gas goes up, i know i’ll come out ahead before the car dies heh.

Guys thank you so much seriously.

[dosmastr]

afraid I’ll overdo it and pickup the car by the motor!

I’ll give it a shot though

[dosmastr]

afraid I’ll overdo it and pickup the car by the motor!

I’ll give it a shot though

[dosmastr]

Anyone able to comment on fuel consumption changes when using this product?

I would think that a thicker oil would result in increased fuel to keep the motor turning.

My wifes car ran with the oil just below the tip of the dip stick (once it sat for a minute there was a drip on the very end) 94 toyota 1.6L DOHC

and now I got a small noise when its running cold or at idle when warm…

In High school I had an 88 subaru GL that I’m told had been run wo oil…he sounded like hell, put lucas in there and it cleared right up… and sounded almost like a crabby old Mercedes diesel lol but I didn’t really pay attention to that cars mpg. (wish I had kept that and eventually turned it into a sleeper… big engine bay and it was literally a grandma car before I got it)

but back on topic,
I’m going out of my range of expertise but guessing maybe its a valve or I did small damage to one of the cams, though it’s more of a wet sounding click than what i’ve heard “valve tap” to sound like. (no noticeable loss of power or economy though)

I’m just looking to prevent further issue, I’m also going to find what seal is leaking and fix that too. I don’t think the motor consumes any appreciable amount of oil, so it must be a leak. (though some of you may recall the time I had getting it to pass state emissions so maybe I’m wrong)

[dosmastr]

Well you certainly are a wealth of information!

the motor has about 130k, but it looks to have had the 100k mile service as when i went to replace the ignition system everything but the rotor looked fairly new. I always use the right weight oil unless walmart is out of 5w-30 quakerstate, then its 10w-30.

at this time its half a quart low only because I didn’t want to put in 1.5 quarts of new oil and then do an oil change a week later (its coming up on 3k)

I’ve had cars like this one for a while (3 different cars, 4 different motors, all the same make and motor) and never heard this noise from any of them.
All 3 of the other motors were older as far as mileage 150k, 166k, and 280k… that last one did burn some oil)

94 geo prizm 1.6L, though this motor in question came from a 97 corolla.

The only reason i’m thinking of using is is that A it seemed to help my old subaru, and B the demo in pep boys with the 4 gears and a crank…. the lucas stuff looks….. stickier… than regular oil which would lead me to believe that it doesn’t drain back down as much or as easily…. though I can see that ALSO means it would not get pumped back out to where it is needed as quickly either.

I did briefly check the link, thats an overwhelming list of topics for a noob like me! No idea where to start (then again I was tired when I looked so I’ll check again)

[dosmastr]

I did two of the 4 mounts with the last motor like 2 years ago… the shop I stopped at said that the front and right mount were only both one type, but the other two varied and could each be one of 7 different, similar but incompatible designs…went to napa and they said they didn’t carry the two other ones, so I bought the two I knew would fit and had my father in laws mechanic throw them in when he did the timing belt (i’ve got 2.5 years of high school auto tech instruction but timing belt and mounts was a bit much for me at that time) Swapping the motors went to the same guy, I think he may or may not have noticed it but didn’t bring it up because he knew i didn’t have the money to fix it, at that time, anyway.

And now, later, napa says the other shop was full of bs and they now cary all 4 mounts…. hoping the two bad didn’t help to ruin the two which were good…

I clicked yes on the has this topic been answered but it hasn’t kicked to green… i’ll hit it again after posting this

[dosmastr]

and now I’m curious, what DOES the egr valve do as far as emissions?
I had thought it was there to reburn the exhaust which would make the most sense (in my limited knowledge base) for eliminating HC.

and why would it be left disconnected when it looks like only two parts of the engine connect to it (both of which appear to have come with the ‘new’ motor)
If it was only added to the new motor and not originally on the car I could see how the exhaust would have no or an incompatible hookup for it …. could that be the case and I just cannot see it underneath that cramped little engine bay? (and thus negating the need for it to be connected in other locations as well)

[dosmastr]

Eric the stop light hates me…. (I’ve hit yes 5 times)

[dosmastr]

ugh…. i had this all typed up and accidentally clicked the page before backspacing a word (took browser back a page)

Thanks for the help and support guys. Clearly some people in the know frequent here.

I do hope to figure out the cause of the fail but I’m not sure if ill be able to with any certainty. I changed the oil today and took it back to the inspection station and it passed.

Note sure if it was the oil being 400 miles past 3000 (i’ve been busy please don’t flog me) or the Guaranteed to pass still possibly lingering after one tank (this was the second tank after the one with GTP) or that there was no line at the inspection station and they wanted to keep it that way by passing me through.
I asked to know what the reading was so I knew if i passed by an inch or a mile but they said that reports only print when the car fails (different from a couple years ago, or a lie…dunno which)

Still I wonder how much leaving the “EGR Valve unused” matters too. I’ll try to put up photos of the engine bay where there are lines between a couple parts on every other 1.6l toyota EFI motor I’ve seen (I shoped for a while and this is my .. 4th prizm motor I’ve owned, 3rd car) which only this one now has capped off.
Why would you not use and EGR valve if the motor had one? I mean its connecting a part of the motor to another part of the motor… it doesn’t even look like its something where you could obviously see “oh, thats the new motors connector, and Thats the one on the car and they just don’t fit”
EDIT: just reread Eric’s post and facepalmed myself for somehow missing the first line—sorry!

At any rate:
the motor has about 130k on it, it was installed about 3500 ago (car has 165k, i had one run til 285K when the timing belt tensionioner seized so I think he will last a bit),

So far, so good.
I know most fluids were changed, and like I said, i think I got lucky because it looks like the previous owner had done the 100K mile tune up.

Its been doing the same mpg as the old motor ( stupid 3speed auto kills mpg down to 26-28! — one I had before this was a 5 speed that did 35mpg on an off week, and 38 when I did 90% highway driving) I guess I should’ve asked for the 4 speed out of the 97 corolla to go with it… maybe good for a couple more mpg.

Next up is replacing what i suspect are two quite bad motor mounts. (car rolls for 2 inchs before the tranny clicks into park, vibrates a good bit when running, and both the old and new/reman axle vibrates, but doesn’t “click”, under hard acceleration and turning while even gently accelerating. i’ve run an axle til the cv joint failed mid drive, this thing is doing something different…)

Again, thanks so much for the help guys, its refreshing to hit a forum where I get answers and Good suggestions RATHER THAN a bunch of people who are as clueless as I am lol.

[dosmastr]

I keep reading about messing with the ignition timing…. some sites just say twist the distributer cap… mine isn’t a circle it has little nubs that prevent twisting.. SOL on that one?

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