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Uh, no. Best case scenario you’ll get a CEL for IAC out of range (because the ECM will try to move it to see the idle change but nothing will happen). Worst case it’s not going to idle at all.
Uh, no. Best case scenario you’ll get a CEL for IAC out of range (because the ECM will try to move it to see the idle change but nothing will happen). Worst case it’s not going to idle at all.
No, it’s not going to wreck anything. It’s just going to function as a car with a non lockup converter which means you may lose a little fuel economy. I owned a Chevy Celebrity wagon years ago with the same transmission and I put over 40K on it that way.
Your test and temporary solution doesn’t prove the solenoid is the problem, it proves theres a problem in the clutch circuit. You could replace the solenoid and see no change if the problem lies within the torque converter itself. That said, the solenoid isn’t expensive (you do have to pull off the side cover to replace it) so it’s probably worth a shot.
No, it’s not going to wreck anything. It’s just going to function as a car with a non lockup converter which means you may lose a little fuel economy. I owned a Chevy Celebrity wagon years ago with the same transmission and I put over 40K on it that way.
Your test and temporary solution doesn’t prove the solenoid is the problem, it proves theres a problem in the clutch circuit. You could replace the solenoid and see no change if the problem lies within the torque converter itself. That said, the solenoid isn’t expensive (you do have to pull off the side cover to replace it) so it’s probably worth a shot.
That looks like a redrawn OE diagram – if his car is an automatic, then that diagram may not be correct.
That looks like a redrawn OE diagram – if his car is an automatic, then that diagram may not be correct.
I’m not Eric, just one of the forum members here but thanks. Understand that if you try and sell it without fixing the issue you will almost definitely take a big financial hit as a bunch of warning lights and messages right in a potential buyers face isn’t going to go over well…
That said, for a sub $200 scanner – I personally think spending $5 for Torque (android app) and a $10 bluetooth OBD dongle is a great investment.
I’m not Eric, just one of the forum members here but thanks. Understand that if you try and sell it without fixing the issue you will almost definitely take a big financial hit as a bunch of warning lights and messages right in a potential buyers face isn’t going to go over well…
That said, for a sub $200 scanner – I personally think spending $5 for Torque (android app) and a $10 bluetooth OBD dongle is a great investment.
[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=125116]Haha… I’ve done that one too DurangoRich, twice. Actually, it’s barely accessible by removing the dog bones and rocking the engine forward. The second time around, I went to a plumbing supply shop and bought two 3-way pex brass pieces and fashioned my own. One of the plastic replacement tees broke after a couple months. The brass has held up fine a couple of years now…It’s a work of art I’ll tell you… 🙂 Long live the Montana/Venture/Silhouette…[/quote]
I *have* to know, you didn’t use the spring style clamps did you? Even with the motor rolled forward, I couldn’t envision getting a pair of pliers in there at some of those weird angles to make all those connections. I had to break down and buy a pair of these to get one of the old ones out (after I had cut out most of the old hoses and broke the old tees to make room)
[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=125116]Haha… I’ve done that one too DurangoRich, twice. Actually, it’s barely accessible by removing the dog bones and rocking the engine forward. The second time around, I went to a plumbing supply shop and bought two 3-way pex brass pieces and fashioned my own. One of the plastic replacement tees broke after a couple months. The brass has held up fine a couple of years now…It’s a work of art I’ll tell you… 🙂 Long live the Montana/Venture/Silhouette…[/quote]
I *have* to know, you didn’t use the spring style clamps did you? Even with the motor rolled forward, I couldn’t envision getting a pair of pliers in there at some of those weird angles to make all those connections. I had to break down and buy a pair of these to get one of the old ones out (after I had cut out most of the old hoses and broke the old tees to make room)
This is not likely to be a DIY fix. This trouble code indicates that the Instrument Cluster is not communicating properly with the Engine Control Module. Could be a software or hardware failure or a wiring issue between the two components.
This is not likely to be a DIY fix. This trouble code indicates that the Instrument Cluster is not communicating properly with the Engine Control Module. Could be a software or hardware failure or a wiring issue between the two components.
There’s more to be concerned with than whether things line up – it’s safety. Before airbags, passive restraints and such – yeah, you could safely yank things back into place (maybe use a little heat), bang em into position, throw some paint on it and go.
Not anymore. Well, you can still do that, it’s just not right. The radiator support in this car is mild steel – it *can* be pulled back into place if slightly bent with no ill effects. But this is severely bent and even though mild steel cannot be pulled back into place without kinking or bending so it should be replaced. Just yanking, pulling of pushing it back into roughly where it once was does more than just affect that part – it affects parts that are attached to and in the vicinity of it.
The part did what it’s supposed to do – absorb crash energy. Not restoring it to it’s proper integrity greatly affects how it performs in a subsequent crash. Of most concern is airbag timing. In a subsequent hit, this area will be able to absorb less energy than it did before which can make the airbags less effective and potentially go off at the wrong time (too late). (This one doesn’t look particularly bad and really isn’t likely to make much difference, but do you want to take that chance? Personally I don’t)
The newer the car, the more high-strength steel there is and the more crucial this becomes. There’s a reason good bodywork is expensive – it’s typically time consuming when done correctly.
There’s more to be concerned with than whether things line up – it’s safety. Before airbags, passive restraints and such – yeah, you could safely yank things back into place (maybe use a little heat), bang em into position, throw some paint on it and go.
Not anymore. Well, you can still do that, it’s just not right. The radiator support in this car is mild steel – it *can* be pulled back into place if slightly bent with no ill effects. But this is severely bent and even though mild steel cannot be pulled back into place without kinking or bending so it should be replaced. Just yanking, pulling of pushing it back into roughly where it once was does more than just affect that part – it affects parts that are attached to and in the vicinity of it.
The part did what it’s supposed to do – absorb crash energy. Not restoring it to it’s proper integrity greatly affects how it performs in a subsequent crash. Of most concern is airbag timing. In a subsequent hit, this area will be able to absorb less energy than it did before which can make the airbags less effective and potentially go off at the wrong time (too late). (This one doesn’t look particularly bad and really isn’t likely to make much difference, but do you want to take that chance? Personally I don’t)
The newer the car, the more high-strength steel there is and the more crucial this becomes. There’s a reason good bodywork is expensive – it’s typically time consuming when done correctly.
Hello! My name is Rich and I’ve been in the industry since ’88 when I graduated from Arizona Automotive Institute (mostly a waste of money – community college would have been just as good at a fraction of the price). Worked at several small shops in WA state until ’97 when I went to work for a repair information provider (there are only a couple of us – you can guess which one probably) and have been there since.
I still work on my own beater fleet and those of friends and family but most often work behind the scenes to get fellow techs the repair info they need. I have a son currently in the Ford ASSET program at the local CC who teaches me stuff every day.
