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I have an AA degree and it really didnt make much of a difference. Admittedly I got mine 30 years ago. My son followed me into the field and also got a degree but his automotive training was more make-specific (Ford ASSET) and I think that was much more valuable in todays market. I would advise against the flashy schools like UTI and Wyotech as they are very pricey ($30K+) and I’ve seen their graduates taking positions at slightly above min wage. Thats a lot of money to owe for a job that starts low $. See if your local Community College has any classes with manufacturers training. The one my son attended had Ford and Toyota. The cost is substantially less and IMO you get more relevant training.
I bought one and it’s okay. Having come from a cheapo Sears one my perspective may be skewed from someone coming from a real quality part. I think the torque rating is overstated a bit – mine did have trouble getting a CV axle nut loose – should have been well within it’s capabilities.
Thanks for the reply Eric. People like to pick the vids apart “why did Eric fix that POS” “professionals already know that” and such and that bugs me because I know the time and effort that goes into these. I only mentioned it because it involves safety which was the point of the video.
I’m a professional and I watch your videos and I learn new stuff from your videos more often than not, that’s for sure. I just got my own Lisle funnel after seeing you use one and I freaking love it. Wish I would have got one years ago.
Left this comment on the vid, but felt I needed to make it here too. Eric didn’t mention anything about putting the car in gear, chocking the wheels or setting the parking brake before lifting. If you’re not on level ground and you lift the driven end without the other end chocked, in gear or brake on – the vehicle can start rolling away from you (or on top of you if you’re down slope from it). You need to make sure the vehicle can’t move forward or backwards before starting to lift.
Edit – On the second listen, I did hear Eric mention at 10:00 to make sure the vehicle is level before lifting. I think it’s important enough it should be mentioned sooner and explained a bit more.
Good video though, don’t get me wrong.
[quote=”HeavyJ” post=127184]A bad vehicle speed sensor will give you the problems you are seeing, shift indicator lights and speedometer, but it usually goes into limp mode, second gear. You might try swapping out your old one from the other trans to the new one.[/quote]
Agreed.
I’ve yet to bother with these. Most wheel locks can be defeated by tapping on a 12 point socket that is slightly too small to slip over the lock. The “teeth” of the socket cuts into the softer lock and can usually be spun off.
My son is midway through the Ford ASSET program in the local CC. I’m really impressed with the way its laid out. The kids go to school for 8 weeks, then intern at a sponsoring dealership for 8 weeks, then go back to school for another 8 weeks and repeat the process for about a year and a half. Getting real-world experience out of the chute and CC isn’t expensive at all. We get Wyotech and UTI graduates here applying for $12/hr jobs. Yeah, that’s what a lot of entry-level people make but many of these grads from these flashy schools are carrying a $20-30K loan debt.
Don’t like Fords – no problem. Toyota and other manufacturers offer similar programs.
[quote=”HeavyJ” post=125455]The Sunfire being a 03 changes everything, According to what I am looking at, that car has a 2.2 L engine, so mounts, trans, wiring harness, ecu/pcm, everything is going to be different and the engine out of the Grand am is not going to work.[/quote]
Yup. Grand Am is the old Quad 4 motor, Sunfire is the 2.2 Ecotec. Totally different. For whatever it’s worth, that Grand Am engine will fit 2000-2002 Grand Am, Sunfire, Alero and Cavalier.
[quote=”HeavyJ” post=125455]The Sunfire being a 03 changes everything, According to what I am looking at, that car has a 2.2 L engine, so mounts, trans, wiring harness, ecu/pcm, everything is going to be different and the engine out of the Grand am is not going to work.[/quote]
Yup. Grand Am is the old Quad 4 motor, Sunfire is the 2.2 Ecotec. Totally different. For whatever it’s worth, that Grand Am engine will fit 2000-2002 Grand Am, Sunfire, Alero and Cavalier.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125461]A great show these two videos. Any customer for car repairs should realize how hard it can be for near end of life vehicle repair.[/quote]
Especially one in a rust belt. I have an ’01 myself and watched these two videos and cringed in advance because I knew what was coming. Last summer at 170K it blew a head gasket (common problem on these). Overall it’s in far better shape than the one in the video, the wife likes it and not wanting a payment I opted to repair it. In removing the heads I broke 2 exhaust studs (one in front, one in back. I knew at minimum I should get the heads cleaned, pressure checked and resurfaced. I was looking at a $200 machine shop bill (not counting the studs) and would get back my 170K heads that probably could benefit from a valve job.
Decided to pony up the $350 for a set of remanufactured heads with a warranty. Got about 15K on them and so far, so good.
Eric, I’ve never been able to get my pressure tester to seal well on these radiators either.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=125461]A great show these two videos. Any customer for car repairs should realize how hard it can be for near end of life vehicle repair.[/quote]
Especially one in a rust belt. I have an ’01 myself and watched these two videos and cringed in advance because I knew what was coming. Last summer at 170K it blew a head gasket (common problem on these). Overall it’s in far better shape than the one in the video, the wife likes it and not wanting a payment I opted to repair it. In removing the heads I broke 2 exhaust studs (one in front, one in back. I knew at minimum I should get the heads cleaned, pressure checked and resurfaced. I was looking at a $200 machine shop bill (not counting the studs) and would get back my 170K heads that probably could benefit from a valve job.
Decided to pony up the $350 for a set of remanufactured heads with a warranty. Got about 15K on them and so far, so good.
Eric, I’ve never been able to get my pressure tester to seal well on these radiators either.
My go to for interchanges is car-part.com – it’s an online database of full-service auto dismantlers. They use Hollander interchange, which is the bible for such things.
Interchange shows this engine to be a 2007-2008 interchange as an assembly. You *may* be able to get an older engine to work, but will likely have to strip it down to the long block, change manifolds, brackets, timing covers and sensors from the ’08 engine.
Save yourself the aggravation and get the correct one. If you insist on going down the older engine road, you’d be best to find a good Acura-specific forum,
My go to for interchanges is car-part.com – it’s an online database of full-service auto dismantlers. They use Hollander interchange, which is the bible for such things.
Interchange shows this engine to be a 2007-2008 interchange as an assembly. You *may* be able to get an older engine to work, but will likely have to strip it down to the long block, change manifolds, brackets, timing covers and sensors from the ’08 engine.
Save yourself the aggravation and get the correct one. If you insist on going down the older engine road, you’d be best to find a good Acura-specific forum,
