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Since its warm I’ll just reseat and dialectric grease the ECT connector.
The injectors are I think changed at some point because the clips were missing save one. The holes were dirty and caked with oil but the faces of the injectors are mirror clean. I’ve run injector cleaner and sea foam through them.
Live data isn’t being much help. Cold start is rich though as I see + fuel trim. Idle cold weather goes negative when warmed up and pushes LTFT negative. Cruising cold fuel trims go to -.8 but yesterday during warm weather I saw +.8 on the highway while still dropping to negative at idle.
It goes like this: idling, LT goes down to even -7 with more negative ST. Driving trims return to 0, especially the faster I go. With warmer temps the FT numbers were better idling but still negative and gas mileage finally made 23 on the freeway.
True but should they be more steady?
When its a little colder the ECT will top at 181 or 183 and will go between those values. That doesn’t seem like it should happen when I’m going the same speed.
At Idle I’ve seen the IAT at 100deg on a 50 degree day. Can heat soak from the engine be that bad?
The other thing I’ve noticed is that I have to hit the gas or the car gets flooded when its -10 on a cold start. The sensors appear to be reading ambient temp before I start but that is a symptom attributed to bad ECT. Second start of the day is always fine.
Sensors are probably original to the vehicle and have 15 years and 200k+ on them. But I don’t want to spend $80 to find out it made no difference.
I’ve checked those over and they look pretty good. I even added dielectric grease to the connectors to keep any moisture out. The front O2 and wiring is denso and looks pretty good, the last owner must have changed it. I can’t tell the name/brand of the rear but they look to be operating.
MAP is close to the baro readings my phone gives so I think its ok.
Found out what the noise was, the tensioner pulley was rattling so its not detonation at least. It would constantly adjust and knock back and forth.
That’s changed and now back to monitoring fuel trims. They were slightly better today (warm day) but spark advance is still 7-8 deg vs the 13-18 HDS says is normal.
ECT seemed more stable, I’m not seeing any more 199Fs.. the pulley would be affecting the water pump and alternator. On a relatively short drive the alternator is giving more stable readings too. I want to under-drive by 10% in the spring but I’m not doing it to a broken car.
I added some screenshots from torque. I didn’t get the bad -3.1 trims, there was enough highway driving to put it down to -1.6 and then 0 today.
It definitely seems like a fireworks show is happening in my header and I feel it in the brake pedal.
I’m going to check and see if I got the noise on video.
I managed to only get 1 “pop”, I’ll try for more on the next cold start before it goes into closed loop.
So I tried to do the thermal valve and the new one’s hoses don’t fit. So if you have an 03-06 the new valve fitting is a lie.
I also found out how to fix the B pipe, someone sells split brackets on ebay with oblong bolt holes. One behind each broken flange and a new gasket ought to fix it. The triangle is less than 3″ across and both pipes are 2″ diameter.
I also found out that after messing with the pipe my fuel trims have dipped…so either the flange is leaking oxygen at the rear O2 or the front cat gasket leaks when the cat is moved. The B pipe only hangs on 1 bolt so this explains why my trims jump when the car does… it creates a leak before the cat from it flopping around.
So cat will have to come down anyway to get a gasket/bolt replacement. I will PB blaster the nuts on the manifold end and heat them with a map torch… then pray. Worse comes to worse I grind them off and use the nuts that come with the replacement bolts.
Did the valve adjustment in 2016 and while I wasn’t too comfortable with it, I don’t think I messed it up as I had good MPGs. Next time I might make someone else do it.
I do have an exhaust leak between the cat and the B pipe. The flange has rusted on the B pipe side and the bolts in the cat are all covered. To fix this I would have to take the cat off without breaking the bolts in the manifold, knock out the old studs and then I dunno what to do about the Bpipe itself. Split clamp? It has a gasket though. Maybe I could just put 2 split clamps together with a new gasket… this one is hard.
Still shouldn’t affect the rear O2 as it has been leaking this whole time. Gives the car a nice light rumble 🙂
So I’m planing on changing IAC, thermal valve thing and air filter… since I think its 2 years old at this point and I’ll be in there anyway. Then I’ll see if idle spunk goes away and if fuel trims improve. If I was running rich shouldn’t I have seen it on the plugs?
Someone had replaced the spark plugs with Autolites at 100k?.. they don’t look too bad. I replaced them anyway with the denso irridium TT. Even smaller electrode than the autolites… but gap is only .4 vs .44 so I don’t know if there is much of a difference. The plug condition when I pulled them looked normal. I never got any misfires in this car.
Air filter was changed, I did that one 12/17/2015.. I knocked some dust out of it but its mostly white.
I did the gasket yesterday too, made sure everything was clean. Before I did fuel trim did rise when I sprayed at the back of the TB but only slightly. Found someone has “fixed” the air assist solenoid with JB weld. Had ordered a new one already so can change that when it gets here with the cheap IAC.
It was a warmer day yesterday and the car popped a p0420. Did I foul it cleaning the TB or from the PCV being clogged too long?
Mode 6 gives some data. Before $04/$02 was 116/176. That day it was like 230/176 and failed. The cat is rusty; the flange after it leaks.. I’ve been meaning to fix that. This morning after researching I decided screw it, if I need a new cat lets see if this youtube thing works.I pulled the front O2 while the car was cold and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner inside with the straw, trying to get through it. Put it back, wait a little while then idle for a bit making sure catalyst doesn’t get up to temp and crack trying to catalyze the cleaner. White exhaust and sludge at the exhaust tip. Took it on the highway, up to 65 for like 25 miles to get up to temp. The readiness tests pass again and I get a better result.
TID:$04 CID:$02
– High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Max: 176
Test result value: 91
PASSSo I fixed the cat but still only got 21mpg at best. The richness is a little bit lower but still, LTFT is -.8 to -3.1 and, ST is sometimes rich to even out LTFT or to make it more negative. Its under 10% but I don’t like it. I notice that while driving it will lean out more and then when I come back to idle it gets rich again.
Highway = -.8LT, shifting STFT
Idling = creeping up to -3 and even negative STFT too.I also notice the car is much peppier before the readiness tests passed. So it still smells like something is wrong. Hopefully not TLDR.
I tried spray testing with carb cleaner and I couldn’t get the idle to change. Its been really cold and making things hard to diagnose. I figure I just replace the gasket tomorrow and order a cheap $20 IAC to see if it makes a difference. The gasket and IAC (and its gasket) are OEM from 2003 and the car has around 130k.
My gas mileage is also still lower then previous and when I monitor vacuum in torque it flips +/- .3 at idle. Fuel trims are negative though but only a few %.
Last week the PCV was replaced because it was clogged. Vac went down from 24 to 20-22. I had originally started investigating this because on a 200m trip gas mileage was 24 one way and then 21 on the way back, same day.
Spraying that area does nothing and the numbers would be much higher if it was a serious leak. So I’m chasing something but not sure what it is.
Thanks. When I look at it in torque its closer to 18 or 1900 so maybe the tach is off?
it goes 2000 (short) > 1500 (closer to that minute) > 700-680 (normal)
The normal idle does “fluctuate” but you can’t see it on the tach and its within 700 +/- 50.It moves… but is it lined up right? Sounds like transmission position sensor is wonkers or not adjusted. What is N, what is D, what is 3? When you drive you might be able to tell.
adjust the exhaust valves to the looser side of the spec because they tighten up. if they do this too much you will be looking at replacing them which is a much greater pain.
Replaced with aftermarket a few months ago and it collapsed. Then I replaced with oem on 6/16. Changed the CV joint 6/24 and noticed vibrations, checked the mount and it looked like this. Feeler gauge didn’t fit under the bump stop anymore.
All the other mounts were changed first. I had 0 vibrations when the mount was up. The cracked stuff is paint that was sprayed on the rubber. The car has the rear drive shaft out but that doesn’t hold anything up.
It really shouldn’t release when you stab the throttle. Does it stay off when you hit the switch? Or does it just re-engage. The electrical portion tells the clutch to close. So you have a short or as mentioned thermostat that doesn’t respect A/C being off. Power is being applied from somewhere to close the clutch, weak or intermittent if acceleration lets it open.