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Personally I liked the interview with the customer and why they’re involved in the FiF. Food for thought…I do a little FiF myself mostly for disable Veterans and for the most part they just don’t want to share their story. So if you get someone that just doesn’t want to be interviewed…understand….some people just want to keep bad times private.
I really liked the quick no-start procedure and the use of the Power Probe….I hated working on those Ford Duratec’s….no room.
Very good video!
Fopeano wrote: Factory transmission coolers are actually not just for cooling, but for heating…
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Very good advice…brian98redskins wrote: If I don’t get this checked out, will anything happen?
That’s hard to say without me physically checking the truck. I don’t like hard shifts, but many Technicians will disagree with me on that. Maybe to be on the safe side I would take it to a good transmission shop and get their opinion.
One thing I would do is change the transmission fluid and filter if it hasn’t been changed, but only do it if you don’t have to do any transmission repair…(don’t change twice)…waste of money…
I think it’s a Gen 1 also. I should have stated up front I’m trying to adjust the valves with the tools I have instead of buying more tools that I’ll probably never use again.
I’ve never worked on a Toyota before…so to make sure it’s a Gen 1 engine I’ll remove the camshaft cover check the valve clearance and if I needed I’ll buy the tool. I’m wondering….. if I have to replace some shims, can I R&R the cams to replace the shims on a Gen 1 engine to save the cost on the tool.
Yes I’m cheap…just trying to save a little money for a young student/ DV.
Yes sir it a Tacoma. So if I shims in the buckets; with shims against the camshaft (Gen 1 / 2) that tool is the one to use?
No this is not normal noise. Tell the service writer you want to test drive another Mustang and compare. The car is in warranty and your concern should be repaired. Make sure the dealer puts it in writing the car is operating to factory specs. Stand your ground…Ford put a warranty on your car…
Thanks for that info…..Good thing I didn’t see this post before you found the problem. I would have told you some wrong diagnosis. Ford PATS switch from no starter interrupt to starter interrupt during that time. I would have told you if the starter was turning even with the theft light flashing you had another problem.
Do you have a 4L60 or 4L80 transmission?…The 4L60 has a 16 bolt oil pan and the 4L80 has a 17 bolt oil pan.
Yes I agree one of the diagnostic steps would be checking transmission line pressure with a gauge or a scan tool when the problem happens. But always do the transmission diagnosis steps like Eric has in his videos.
I replaced many valve bodies and spacer plates with the issue you’re having. I was told The Electronic Pressure Control valve bore wears and causes steps in the valve body bore which maybe is causing the Electronic Pressure Control valve to hang up intermittently. At a Dealer we were not allowed to do valve body work so I really did not know the root cause.
I was told there are aftermarket kits to repair that problem…but an transmission technician will have to fill you in on that..
Another thing; check TPS for smooth electrical response to the PCM
EricTheCarGuy wrote: If I’m not mistaken, they used to drop the engine and transmission out ……
Yep, I’m sure that’s the way they do it. As hard it would have been doing that on the ground it would have been easier than the way I did it. That car was one of the hardest car I have worked on; I had to call a friend to help me with the valve timing…I couldn’t get all four cam’s in time even with the proper belt cog holders. I got a lesson on how to time and hold the belt in place on a four cam engine from him that I’ll never forget.
After working for auto dealers and being in direct contact with the manufactures the corruption is nothing new….. I bet GM is in a cold sweat….yes they do this for gas powered vehicles also.
The last part of the video was very good and needs to be understood what is going on. I’m thankful to “EricTheCarGuy” being a producer of media of bringing this to the attention of his viewers.EricTheCarGuy wrote: Ultimately I think it’s our consumptive lifestyle that’s at fault.
You got that right.
EricTheCarGuy wrote: I really should make a video about this.
Please produce the video!!!
I think this is another outstanding video; in fact (in my opinion) this video should be shown to every customer before they get their vehicle worked on to show them (the customer) what an automotive Technician is going through working on their vehicle.
One bright part of the Van job was it wasn’t as bad as the Chevy or Dodge truck engine.
Eric the car guy stated: When is this going to end.
After being an auto/truck dealer Tech. for 38 years…only when you die or if you can make retirement.
Eric the car guy stated: I’ve said this before; “A/C work should be sent to a professional ect”…
After doing A/C work in the Auto dealership atmosphere, I think you are very much a specialized A/C person. {Don’t take this the wrong way} I think what went wrong is you’re trying to help people save money by short cuts. When I opened an A/C system after a system performance operation on customer pay; a drier/accumulator, orifice/expansion valve ect. was replaced at the minimum. If a compressor was replaced for failure the system was flushed and I did all labor operations following that. Even after that you have no assurance that a piece of metal is still lodged in the condenser or the evaporator waiting to come loose for an comeback to ruin yet another lovely day being a auto Technician.
You did not design that A/C system, you did not leave the A/C system go when it needed maintained. What you have done is offered your valuable labor and professionalism to help people that really need help. In my opinion the rest is out of your control.
After you reassembled the A/C system the first time the A/C pressure looked ok to me at idle and at 1500 RPM’s it was a little low on the high side…but obviously I was wrong. The second time no doubt the system was not working to specs. My explanation to why the A/C system works ok with the rear system on (performing) is; if the Chrysler system is designed liked the Ford / GM one compressor system; when the rear A/C is functional the rear orifice / expansion valve will take the place of the front one.
You are a good person by doing the “Fixing it Forward”; but in my opinion the people in need of your service have to understand the cost when things don’t work out like they should.
Clanard stated: Basic physics. Remove heat and pressure drops in a closed system..
. It sounds like you’re and engineer…what do you think the fix could be?
Robcarstuff stated:I can tell your not in the “Flat rate rat race” anymore.I would be all over that job with a 3/8 impact and air rachhhet.
You forgot long pry bars….
Yoyo stated: bean counters are the ones designing these vehicles, and not the actual engineers.
Back when I was an auto Tech. I found a problem with a vehicle that got me a paid trip to Detroit. That trip included visits to GM / Ford and talking to engineers of those manufactures. To this day; it still is “breath taking” how smart they (Auto engineers) are and how they adapt to the changing times under an authoritarian schedule. In my opinion, I can only compare them to a Surgeon, Astronaut ect. Yes the bean counters are the ones designing these vehicles. The auto manufacturers are in the business to sell cars…as many as they can and as often they can… that’s how they make money…not to make them last.
Now I get to do my “fixing it forward” thing for a friend that owns a Hunyadi 3.5 DOHC put a timing belt/coolant pump in. The dealer wants $1500 to $2000 to do it and my friend can’t afford it at this time and asked me for assistance. I never worked on one of these engines before and the only thing I can guarantee is; if I can’t fix it you may have to get someone who can.
Back in the day when I was an auto Tech, if I said that, I would have been outside the dealership in 30 seconds.
mitchellchristian1 stated: So if it’s still there so your saying is that it’s a good possibility of the transmission pump?? Because yeah all the other pulley were fine and the sound wasn’t there when I revel the engine with the belt on anymore , just in drive now 😛
If you think the transmission / transmission front pump is making noise…the only way you can eliminate the transmission pump / transmission input shaft from turning is disconnect the engine flywheel from the transmission torque convertor. Occasionally, a quick way to check auto trans front pump noise for wear or noise (sometimes) is putting the trans in reverse and listen for an increase noise pitch….than you can maybe pinpoint your diagnosis.
On your first post you stated the noise sounded like it was coming from the front of the engine. With the accessory drive belt removed and the noise is still present just in drive …you got me….maybe timing chain / gear noise.