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I know everybody has their opinion about transmission fluid change; I knew this person and he knows Ford auto transmissions and he talks about your transmission at the end of the video:
Also I would recommend this on GM transmissions ….. Just my opinion for what it’s worth…
That was the first year for the Taurus Can bus system and it was very critical to low voltage to the speedometer head. Also the alternator used on that car had issues with the voltage regulator bolts coming loose and causing the alternator not to charge to specs. How to check your alternator: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1 …. You stated the battery cables were tight / no corrosion and the battery was good…double check….
You stated after you replaced the TPS you’re back to the no start while engine is cranking. I would go back to that point and make sure the installation of the TPS is correct and you have the correct TPS. (Most GM TPS look the same but will not interchange)
If your recheck of the TPS installing is ok follow this: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems follow each step…if you don’t have the tools…try renting them….if you don’t have the knowledge to do what Eric is talking about just ask…very good people on this site that will help you…don’t skip any steps on Eric’s no start procedure’s.
Very good video! At one time my thinking was a different way,now being retired and traveling throughout the world what you are saying is very true especially about water.
After working at dealers for many years and seeing what customers went through for their repairs and you just buying a car from them and getting treated like that …you deserved more than an apology.
I think your first video was very good…you said what was on your mind… you have that right being a customer and especially after buying a $27000 vehicle.
Fopeano wrote: Technically you did give them the car with a faulty part. The way to address that call back is to say something to the effect of “Yeah sorry that was already broken, it’s fine if they use vise-grips to pull on what’s left of it for now.
I agree with that….but the service writer’s attitude…no excuse. All dealerships I worked at were all the same…we didn’t have any customer pay mainly because of the attitude/hourly rate of the dealerships along with attitude of the manufacture when customers talked to the factory rep.
Fopeano wrote: my boss wanted me to cob it up because it was his buddy who didn’t want to buy a new intake manifold. So I plugged the broken nipple and Tee’d the line into another vacuum line…..costing me about 2 hours.
That happened to me a few times and then I wouldn’t do a labor procedure without additional lines written on a repair order. After that I wasn’t asked to do anything on my own time…I just was given Durimax / Power stroke engines / GM 3.6 engines and Fusion transmissions or any low paying warranty jobs to change my attitude….my attitude didn’t change ..I was just written up for not flagging enough hours….
I was an automotive dealer technician for 38 years and the attitude wasn’t that good back when I first started…. now I think its worse. As changing dealerships attitudes…I think the manufacture’s attitude should be changed first and then I think it will be forward down to the customer.
EricTheCarGuy wrote: So what have your dealership/service experiences been like?
I had one that was out of my control ….my car was out of town driven by my wife…and the battery was defective in a two month old car under factory warranty. My wife called me after shopping and said the car wouldn’t start…(no crank) and being at a Walmart store she asked them to jump start it and it started. I told her “since the car was under factory warranty go to the nearest dealer and have them repair the car” She did and they said “she must have left the headlights on which discharged the battery”. When she called me and told me that…I knew they just blew her off, because of the parasitic draw built into the electronics. She went back to Walmart to get something she forgot and when she came back out the car wouldn’t start. She called the dealer and they set her up for an appointment in one week; she told them she was from out of town; she was stranded and was just at the service department for the same issue. They said “they would send a tow truck at her expense and would look at the car in one week”. I called the dealer and had no luck…In fact I heard the service writer laughing…. I called my wife back and reluctantly told her to have Walmart check the car out and if it needed a battery have them put it in. They came out to the parking lot, jump started the car, checked the charging system and called me and said “the system was charging and the battery was checked and was defective”. The person I was talking to sounded like they knew what they were talking about…so I authorize a new battery be installed. Walmart installed a new battery and the issue was repaired; the only thing they charged my wife for was just the battery…nothing else…not even the first jump start….
When the factory rep was in the dealership I worked at, I told him what happened and he told me “the only thing that could be done is put the original battery back in the car and make an appointment at the dealer I worked at and if the battery is bad replace it under factory warranty….need I say anything more…
If I remember the clutch fork spring rivets coming loose that held the throw out bearing in place would make noise and when you put your foot on the clutch pedal the noise would go away…..its been so long I can’t remember what the noise sounded like.
Usually with a 3.0 two valve engine a bad CKP sensor will set a P0315 and an Engine misfire will set a P0316 which you have.
P0401…The EGR system is monitored during steady state driving conditions while the EGR is commanded on. The test fails when the signal from the DPF EGR sensor indicates that EGR flow is less than the desired minimum. You could have a vacuum leak to the EGR valve…but I don’t think it will cause the problem your having….I still think it’s a fuel problem.
To find the root cause I would go here for diagnosis… http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automo…es#PerformanceIssues
I have the Ford diagnostic procedures if you need it….you’re lucky that’s an easy car to work on….
I was a GM Tech for many years and yes at one time you could do a modification as your doing and it would work. But that has changed even for GM. What I would do is talk to a GM parts man and find out if the interchange can be done…they have the parts numbers that can be interchanged.
Another idea is a salvage yard….their pretty good with what will fit with what.
I just did one for a friend….Code 23 is a blend door actuator feedback failure usually a bad blend door servo. Before you condemn the servo calibrate the HVAC.
I’m a retired Chevy/Ford Tech that’s helping a friend in need and I got my info from here… http://www.lhforums.net/forums/showthread.php?2512-Replacing-the-blend-and-mode-door-actuators-Including-ATC-amp-MTC-Trouble-CodesI have the diagram if you still need it…..follow Eric’s electrical trouble shooting video on how to isolate each circuit to find your issue.
You may have a fuel issue….fuel filter/fuel pump ect…but in order to diagnosis your problem properly I think you should start here:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues#PerformanceIssuesAt first it looked like too much preload, but with some rollers not damaged as much as others….I my opinion something was wrong with the bearing especially with one roller missing……… you’re one good Technician and thanks for the video!
Chevyman21 wrote: theres hourly techs and then theres flat rate techs…
This maybe a little off subject, but I figured I can put my input (belly aching) in on my dealership flat rate tech experience.
I was a flat rate tech for 38 years at GM and Ford dealerships that were Union shops that had a guaranteed 40 work week, but you had to make the 40 hrs. by factory flat rate time. The last 25 years it was really hard to make 40 hrs. even for the young people. But of course you had some techs that got more brake / suspension work that made it plus more….I still think those techs were paying the service writers off the get the easier work.
If you didn’t make the 40 hrs. after three weeks; you got a reprimand letter and was guaranteed 32 hrs. pay and your flat rate was reduced to 32 hrs. When that happened you mostly got all the low paying heavy work with the service writer thinking anybody can make 32 hrs. If you got a Duramax/Power Stoke engines,3.6 Equinox /STS/Camaro engines, 4.6/5.3 F150 Engines, Fusion Transmissions…ect ect ect…it was hard to get 32 hrs.
The next step was second reprimand letter and guaranteed 24 hrs. I got to this point one time when I had a comeback on a Duramax 3500 and a STS 3.6. I was back flagged all the hrs. that I was given for the labor operations in one week and had to address the comebacks for straight time.
Just in case you want know what happens if you can’t make the 24 hrs under factory flat rate… third reprimand letter and you’re looking for a job.
As for what the Union did, they saved my job one time on a comeback which was very obvious another tech was trying to make it look like what I did caused the comeback. The second time I wasn’t so lucky, after 38 yrs. I did what someone in management said to do and later they said they didn’t say that and yes they were a trusted friend.
What did the Union do…they came to the dealership during my termination and the owner slammed the door in the Rep’s face. Later on after a grievance meeting and the dealer refused to reinstate me, the Union said they were going to arbitration. What happened, the Union tried to find me another job along with me trying to find one, being 62 yrs old, I took retirement. What happen about the arbitration… after a year it’s still pending….I wonder who’s paying who off. The Union has suggested I get an Attorney and file suite for age discrimination. My question to the Union was; what have I been paying you for all these years?
Now after some of the shock has worn off, I’m helping some people that can’t afford to get their cars worked on…. Most of which are disabled Veterans.
I loved that ratchet…. but my tools are mostly Snap-On so I’m mostly “one sided” when it comes to tools. My first FLF80 turned up missing at lunch one day when I left it on my bench; the second one I’m letting my son use in the work he does… I’m retired. I’m doing some side work now and I really miss that ratchet. I was at a flea market and I found a ratchet called Duralast FLF936 that surprisingly works the same as a Snap-On. I don’t know who makes it, I think Autozone sells the tools and it’s made in Taiwan, but I don’t use my tools like I did when I was working and for $12 I’ll give it a try.