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Hi Eric,
A couple of points, in case you’re interested:
1. I have a very similar flaring tool set to your Harbor Freight one – they’re probably made in the same factory in China – and it does fine on copper brake line, but in the instructions it says it’s not suitable for steel lines. Maybe that was your problem.2. I really hate to see you working on brake lines with the fluid peeing out everywhere. Why don’t you wedge the brake pedal down? It really works, and you don’t have to push it all the way to the floor; just far enough so the master cylinder piston goes past the inlet from the reservoir.
Cheers
Hi there.
First, check you’ve put the leads in the right holes on the multimeter. The black should be in ‘com’ and the red in the ’10A’ hole. If still no go then check the fuse in the meter by opening it up. It’s probably blown. If not, then your meter’s goosed.
You need to get the fuel pump pressure tested.
A clogged exhaust can tested by checking for back pressure at the manifold. Either way, you probably need a good independent mechanic to look at it.
I would probably run power to the fans to check it’s working, then test the relay. After that, replace the thermostat and coolant temp sensor with OEM parts.
Next time, buy a hub nut with the bearing whike you’re in the shop. Note that good wheel bearing kits come with a new nut as standard.
Regarding the torque, I agree with barneyb – a good heave on a 2-3 foot breaker bar or metal tubing and you’ll be fine.
Next time, buy a hub nut with the bearing whike you’re in the shop. Note that good wheel bearing kits come with a new nut as standard.
Regarding the torque, I agree with barneyb – a good heave on a 2-3 foot breaker bar or metal tubing and you’ll be fine.
[quote=”97nissanpickup” post=122361]When I cut the bottom bolt head off I was able to pop the lock nut off so an 1/8 of the bolt sticks out. The 1/4 punch did not budge anything, at all. If anything it spread that bolt out.
I soaked it in some more PB blaster and I’m going to try again today. I am getting quite sick of this bracket, for the corrosion and rust to be this bad it makes me wonder if these are the original parts.
I think I’m going to just drill out the bolt where it’s not threaded, it has got to pop off then. No need to re-thread anything and I can finally finish this job.
Any thoughts?[/quote]
Bad luck. If it’s any consolation we’ve all been there. If I were you I would cut the bolt stub flush as it will always tend to take the easy way out and spread rather than travel through the hole. Drilling the bolt out to the largest size you dare will help allow the stub to collapse in slightly as you hammer it and will likely be successful.
If it still won’t budge then my next move would be to remove the hub as previously described and set the assembly on a sturdy vice/anvil/block of wood to hammer it. If it still resists then you can then take the b@stard thing to a machine shop or garage which has oxy torches.
[quote=”97nissanpickup” post=122361]When I cut the bottom bolt head off I was able to pop the lock nut off so an 1/8 of the bolt sticks out. The 1/4 punch did not budge anything, at all. If anything it spread that bolt out.
I soaked it in some more PB blaster and I’m going to try again today. I am getting quite sick of this bracket, for the corrosion and rust to be this bad it makes me wonder if these are the original parts.
I think I’m going to just drill out the bolt where it’s not threaded, it has got to pop off then. No need to re-thread anything and I can finally finish this job.
Any thoughts?[/quote]
Bad luck. If it’s any consolation we’ve all been there. If I were you I would cut the bolt stub flush as it will always tend to take the easy way out and spread rather than travel through the hole. Drilling the bolt out to the largest size you dare will help allow the stub to collapse in slightly as you hammer it and will likely be successful.
If it still won’t budge then my next move would be to remove the hub as previously described and set the assembly on a sturdy vice/anvil/block of wood to hammer it. If it still resists then you can then take the b@stard thing to a machine shop or garage which has oxy torches.
I would invest in a punch slightly smaller than the bolt shank – 6mm or 1/4″ should do it.
Some heat is better than no heat 😉
I would invest in a punch slightly smaller than the bolt shank – 6mm or 1/4″ should do it.
Some heat is better than no heat 😉
You should be fine, especially if you can heat the area and tap the bit the bolt goes through. Your bolt head sheared off because it’s hard to turn a seized shaft, especially with non-impact force. I doubt it will be able to resist direct linear shocks from a big hammer and a stout punch.
Edit: I would use a bluntish punch for this – a sharp one will tend to dig in too much and may spread the bolt. Also, I know an old motorcycle mechanic who was blinded in one eye by a flying punch tip. Safety glasses!
You should be fine, especially if you can heat the area and tap the bit the bolt goes through. Your bolt head sheared off because it’s hard to turn a seized shaft, especially with non-impact force. I doubt it will be able to resist direct linear shocks from a big hammer and a stout punch.
Edit: I would use a bluntish punch for this – a sharp one will tend to dig in too much and may spread the bolt. Also, I know an old motorcycle mechanic who was blinded in one eye by a flying punch tip. Safety glasses!
[quote=”97nissanpickup” post=121900]
Can someone explain why an extractor wouldn’t work? Or at least just drilling the bolt out.
Also I am confused on what you guys mean by using a hammer and punch to smack the bracket/rotor off.
[/quote]This might be easier with a diagram, but the non-threaded part of the bolt passes through the hub, then the threaded part engages the caliper bracket. If you cut the head off, then you should be able to hit the resulting stub outwards and it should fall away, caliper bracket still attached.
You could use an extractor or drilling, but access may be tricky and it isn’t worth it when you can do the above.