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I have a Chevy 327 of unknown origin in my truck. It has a big, lopey cam, but had starting and idling issues, especially when cold. It would also be hard to start (difficult to crank) when up to temperature. After going through many processes, including timing, I determined that the heads, which are a mid-70’s 76cc low compression smog type of head originally for a 350 sbc, were a contributing factor. I bought brand new 64cc aluminum heads to up the compression. I paid a local shop to install them, including new roller tip rockers and pushrods.
When I got the truck back, I was disappointed that the engine still idles low (and poorly) particularly in drive, still was difficult to start when warm, and would occasionally backfire through the carb. I had a second shop look at it. They put a timing light on it and showed me it was running at 2 degrees of advance. They adjusted it to 10 degrees of advance. the backfire is gone, the truck runs better, but still the truck is difficult to start when at temp. I’m surprised by these symptoms because since it was backfiring through the carb I was expecting the timing to have been too far advanced.
Perhaps the cam has too much duration? Or could this be an indicator of a stretched chain? Other ideas?
I took it to Auto Zone but they can’t read a code for the TCS. (or the SRS light that’s on too – but that’s another matter for another day). The only code was an old code for engine knock. The check engine light no longer comes on anymore so I figure that’s an old code. But back to the TCS light. What is it reading – issues at the wheels? Issues at the transmission? Something else?
Oh I forgot to say the bubbling you see in the PS reservoir is after I replaced the O-rings so perhaps a new PS pump is in order. I did drain some of the fluid but not all.
I was betting on it being power steering. But then I removed the PS belt and the noise was still there. I’m now 99% certain that the tensioner for the timing belt is tired and needs replacing.
I removed the serpentine belt and, again, the rattle is still there. So… I’m thinking timing belt. Ugh. Not sure how much deflection there should be in the timing belt, but it seems looser than it should be.
Okay, I’m back in town (my grandmother had passed away) so I’m back at it with this Acura. Here’s a video of the engine running with the timing cover off. Removing the PS belt didn’t remove the noise, next I will remove the service belt for the A/C and alternator. I don’t expect that to be it, though. My bet is that the tensioner is tired and isn’t keeping the timing belt tight.
More to come…
I will do so as soon as I can. Unfortunately there has been a death in the family so I’m traveling and will be away from the car for another five days.
Today I was able to get into the engine. I removed the power steering belt and the motor still makes a rattle. I removed the top timing belt cover and ran the engine. It seems a bit loose. I don’t imagine these can be tightened, so I think it needs a new one. Debating about doing it myself since I already have some parts in the front taken off. Just wondering how much of a PITA the whole thing would be.
While in there I replaced the seals on the inlet and outlet hoses for the power steering pump. Was really hoping this would be the fix, though I was betting that it wasn’t. Oh well. I’ll post another video tomorrow daylight.
Okay, solution found, and I feel silly.
I went out to check the fuses again, and the one I had replaced, the 15amp cig lighter, had blown. It hadn’t occurred to me to check it again. Before I put it in, none of the three were working, or so I figured, because one was working afterward. I thought the other two might have been on a different circuit, which they are. I just naturally tied the action of installing a fuse to a circuit working, nevermind that it was a different circuit! Now all that remains to be seen is if the fuse doesn’t blow again.
I guess we can close this trouble report, if there is a way to do that.
– Livemeyer
That was the help I needed. I downloaded the wiring diagram and when I get home from work I’ll be able to trace and check the wiring and fuses and some of the other components in this electronic circuit. I’m hopeful that I simply overlooked a fuse.
it has 76,000 miles. Has no issues. And you’re right a typical flood car would not be in the cards for me either. But what the title says and what actually happened to the car are two different things. There are no signs of mud, debris, and knowing that it happened when new and only two owners on the title history (and I bought direct from the second owner, not a dealer) means the story checks out. What’s the worst that could happen with a rainstorm with windows down? I would expect electric windows and door locks to be a problem, but they aren’t. It’s also important to note the owner said his wife deactivated the 12v cig lighters.
That said, I’m armed with the wiring diagram and I’ll trace and check the fuses again. The one 12v cig lighter started working again not because the fuse was bad, but because it had been pulled and was missing.
No, this is a automatic transmission. I apologize if I didn’t state that clearly. The clunk happens when the transmission shifts when the car is not accelerating (coasting, basically).
Me personally I wouldn’t bother putting more money into this car. If the previous owner raced it you are going to be continually fixing it because every component you haven’t replaced yet has been stressed. Sometimes it’s easy to get “underwater” (spending more money than it is worth) on a car because once you spend big money on something like a transmission you figure to get any worth out of the repairs you made you should just keep doing more and more to keep it on the road.
On the other hand, if you plan to keep the car for many, many more years (10? 20?) because you either a) love it so much you’ll give the woman the house but to hell if she’s ever taking my prized possession, or b) you’re just not really very fond of making car payments, well then, keep spending the money and try to keep it going down the road.