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[quote=”sirerma” post=108605]:stick: Hello everyone,
Got a 1991 Honda Accord with the 3rd Brake Light not coming on when brake pedal is pressed. Both brake lights come when the brake pedal is pressed so it would seem the brake light switch is in fact still good.
Have not located any blown fuses with this car as this is the only problem electrically with this car. No 3 light brake which is required for the vehicle inspection. Any clues where else to check?[/quote]OK, is this one of the 1991 Honda Accords fitted with Honda’s patented 1,000 Year ForeverBulb, or it the standard kind that burns out and needs periodic replacement?
[quote=”Matthew2014″ post=108593]
So why did this Caddy have a FL plate on the front? same plate number on both plates. However when i used Carfax to run the plate it came back as registered to a Mazda go figure…[/quote]Now that’s strikes me as kinda creepy. Why on Earth are you running plates on random stranger’s cars?
[quote=”Matthew2014″ post=108593]
So why did this Caddy have a FL plate on the front? same plate number on both plates. However when i used Carfax to run the plate it came back as registered to a Mazda go figure…[/quote]Now that’s strikes me as kinda creepy. Why on Earth are you running plates on random stranger’s cars?
Well let’s look at our clues…
1. Most states require front and rear plates
2. Florida is a popular state for out of state residents to retire to
3. Cadillacs are a popular make among the retiree crowdSo the only question I have is, does Florida issue you 2 plates when you register a vehicle? If they do, then rest of the story fills itself in.
Well let’s look at our clues…
1. Most states require front and rear plates
2. Florida is a popular state for out of state residents to retire to
3. Cadillacs are a popular make among the retiree crowdSo the only question I have is, does Florida issue you 2 plates when you register a vehicle? If they do, then rest of the story fills itself in.
OK, I’ll play along and assume that you’re getting spark. And we’ll assume that the only thing wrong with your car is due to excessive fuel delivery. Then I’d probably take a look at the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). But honestly, it really sounds like a no spark situation.
OK, I’ll play along and assume that you’re getting spark. And we’ll assume that the only thing wrong with your car is due to excessive fuel delivery. Then I’d probably take a look at the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). But honestly, it really sounds like a no spark situation.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108571][quote=”brian52799″ post=107869]I am really considering going to school to be a mechanic after reading my Haynes manual the timing chain looks like a job I could do if I had the tools I don’t know of any mechanic schools in my cincinnati area I want to work in a shop that does all major repairs I don’t want to just do oil changes I like to be able to fix my own car[/quote]
I’m afraid this isn’t how it works. When you start out, you start at the bottom. That’s just the way it works. You can’t expect to walk into a place and start doing major repair jobs. It takes time, tools, and dedication to get to that level.
Glad you got it sorted though. Thanks for the updates.[/quote]
That’s the story with any skilled career field. There’s no way a fresh-out-of-school rookie is going to be allowed to take on the tough jobs straight out of the gate. And the truth is, it’s how you carry out those mundane tasks is what decides when (if ever) you’ll move up to those challenging jobs. The logic is simple and fairly airtight: If a person can’t be trusted to change oil in a professional, proficient and efficient manner… why trust them with anything more serious?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108571][quote=”brian52799″ post=107869]I am really considering going to school to be a mechanic after reading my Haynes manual the timing chain looks like a job I could do if I had the tools I don’t know of any mechanic schools in my cincinnati area I want to work in a shop that does all major repairs I don’t want to just do oil changes I like to be able to fix my own car[/quote]
I’m afraid this isn’t how it works. When you start out, you start at the bottom. That’s just the way it works. You can’t expect to walk into a place and start doing major repair jobs. It takes time, tools, and dedication to get to that level.
Glad you got it sorted though. Thanks for the updates.[/quote]
That’s the story with any skilled career field. There’s no way a fresh-out-of-school rookie is going to be allowed to take on the tough jobs straight out of the gate. And the truth is, it’s how you carry out those mundane tasks is what decides when (if ever) you’ll move up to those challenging jobs. The logic is simple and fairly airtight: If a person can’t be trusted to change oil in a professional, proficient and efficient manner… why trust them with anything more serious?
[quote=”college man” post=108498]
I always shut off the AC before the car. My main reason is when I go to
start the vehicle I’m not trying to start against the AC. :)[/quote]Funny you should mention that… some automakers employ a strategy of specifically turning on the compressor during cranking. They do it with the intention of extending compressor life. When the engine is off, the high and low side pressures can equalize causing liquid refrigerant to condense in the compressor. Turning the compressor on at relatively low speeds (such as during cranking) can safely drive this slug of liquid out. The technique is known as “anti-slugging”.
My point is that the ECU can (and sometimes does) cycle the compressor on or off regardless of driver input, or what the dash controls are set for. That’s one of the reason I said it was a question that couldn’t easily be answered.
[quote=”college man” post=108498]
I always shut off the AC before the car. My main reason is when I go to
start the vehicle I’m not trying to start against the AC. :)[/quote]Funny you should mention that… some automakers employ a strategy of specifically turning on the compressor during cranking. They do it with the intention of extending compressor life. When the engine is off, the high and low side pressures can equalize causing liquid refrigerant to condense in the compressor. Turning the compressor on at relatively low speeds (such as during cranking) can safely drive this slug of liquid out. The technique is known as “anti-slugging”.
My point is that the ECU can (and sometimes does) cycle the compressor on or off regardless of driver input, or what the dash controls are set for. That’s one of the reason I said it was a question that couldn’t easily be answered.
If your goal is to be an automotive technician… then I wouldn’t worry about monkeying around with welding. Sure welding is a useful skill to have, but not an essential one. Even if you do decide to get it, you’ll have a hard time maintaining your certs working in the average auto shop.
If your goal is to be an automotive technician… then I wouldn’t worry about monkeying around with welding. Sure welding is a useful skill to have, but not an essential one. Even if you do decide to get it, you’ll have a hard time maintaining your certs working in the average auto shop.
[quote=”Letxen3″ post=108417]is it true that if you shut down your AC before turning off the car it will help prolong the life of your AC compressor?[/quote]
I’m sorry, but there are too many variables in compressor design and electronic engine management to provide a simple yes or no answer.
