Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”Ratchet Face” post=108231]make sure your yak is supported safely before performing routine yak maintenance.[/quote]
This is the truth! A safely supported yak is a must. I can’t help but point out one important detail… DO NOT place your yak stand under the “seam weld” you may find running along the mid/rear centerline section of the beast. This will make your yak very disagreeable.
Seriously, I don’t know offhand the brand and specs of jack stands that Eric uses. But I can say that all major manufacturers of jack stands offer their products in a wide range of sizes.
[quote=”Ratchet Face” post=108231]make sure your yak is supported safely before performing routine yak maintenance.[/quote]
This is the truth! A safely supported yak is a must. I can’t help but point out one important detail… DO NOT place your yak stand under the “seam weld” you may find running along the mid/rear centerline section of the beast. This will make your yak very disagreeable.
Seriously, I don’t know offhand the brand and specs of jack stands that Eric uses. But I can say that all major manufacturers of jack stands offer their products in a wide range of sizes.
[quote=”DragonSung” post=108132]McWicked, would you mind giving us some good pointers on how to make good crimps and what tools/ crimps are preferred in the aerospace field . also anyone in aviation care to chime in?
I know some are far better than others. hoping for a good source for crimps and tools.[/quote]I really can’t offer advice on specific brands of crimpers. The crimpers I use at work span many brands and are routinely calibrated by our in house metrology lab. As such, they are are prohibitively expensive and provide levels of adjustment that are not required for automotive work. The most important thing you can do is buy the correct crimping tool for the type of splice you are making, and make sure the tool is set to the correct gauge of wire. You don’t want to go the hack route, and smash them on using the crappy “crimper” found on many pliers and wire strippers.
As for the crimps and splices themselves, I strongly recommend purchasing the transparent polyethylene style crimps and lugs. Unlike the cheapo plastic ones from the auto parts store, these allow you to visually inspect your connection after you’re done. There are plenty of good websites and videos demonstrating good crimping practices, so google is your friend.
One thing I forgot to mention is that there is also a “middle ground” you can consider. They’re called heat shrink solder sleeves. They’re great. All you need is a good strong heat gun. Zero soldering skill required. Slide ’em over your connection, heat ’em up until the solder melts and the tubing shrinks, and you’re done. Nice clean moisture-proof connections done easy. But like I said, you need a good heat gun, or else you’ll end up with a cold solder joint.
Good Luck
[quote=”DragonSung” post=108132]McWicked, would you mind giving us some good pointers on how to make good crimps and what tools/ crimps are preferred in the aerospace field . also anyone in aviation care to chime in?
I know some are far better than others. hoping for a good source for crimps and tools.[/quote]I really can’t offer advice on specific brands of crimpers. The crimpers I use at work span many brands and are routinely calibrated by our in house metrology lab. As such, they are are prohibitively expensive and provide levels of adjustment that are not required for automotive work. The most important thing you can do is buy the correct crimping tool for the type of splice you are making, and make sure the tool is set to the correct gauge of wire. You don’t want to go the hack route, and smash them on using the crappy “crimper” found on many pliers and wire strippers.
As for the crimps and splices themselves, I strongly recommend purchasing the transparent polyethylene style crimps and lugs. Unlike the cheapo plastic ones from the auto parts store, these allow you to visually inspect your connection after you’re done. There are plenty of good websites and videos demonstrating good crimping practices, so google is your friend.
One thing I forgot to mention is that there is also a “middle ground” you can consider. They’re called heat shrink solder sleeves. They’re great. All you need is a good strong heat gun. Zero soldering skill required. Slide ’em over your connection, heat ’em up until the solder melts and the tubing shrinks, and you’re done. Nice clean moisture-proof connections done easy. But like I said, you need a good heat gun, or else you’ll end up with a cold solder joint.
Good Luck
Yeah I think this would a tough video to make.
The very basics of fuel injection are fairly straightforward and can be easily understood by anyone with a decent working knowledge of engines. Unfortunately the basics won’t help anyone diagnose problems. To do that, you have to get more advanced, which would get ugly and cumbersome with rapidity.
Not to mention it’d leave the door wide open to the hordes of your more pedantic internet experts. “But Eric…” they’d whine “that’s only true for peak-hold injectors, not the saturated or disc types. Also at 11 minutes you were talking about the fuel return line, which doesn’t apply for returnless systems. Also your explanation of MAP vs MAF air metering didn’t take into account…” ad nauseam.
So Eric would have the unenviable task of pleasing the nerds (which can’t be done) without leaving everyone else cross-eyed. No simple feat. But I’d definitely watch whatever he whipped up.
Yeah I think this would a tough video to make.
The very basics of fuel injection are fairly straightforward and can be easily understood by anyone with a decent working knowledge of engines. Unfortunately the basics won’t help anyone diagnose problems. To do that, you have to get more advanced, which would get ugly and cumbersome with rapidity.
Not to mention it’d leave the door wide open to the hordes of your more pedantic internet experts. “But Eric…” they’d whine “that’s only true for peak-hold injectors, not the saturated or disc types. Also at 11 minutes you were talking about the fuel return line, which doesn’t apply for returnless systems. Also your explanation of MAP vs MAF air metering didn’t take into account…” ad nauseam.
So Eric would have the unenviable task of pleasing the nerds (which can’t be done) without leaving everyone else cross-eyed. No simple feat. But I’d definitely watch whatever he whipped up.
Out of curiosity, what troubleshooting have you performed that leads you to think it’s PCV problem?
The reason I ask is that there a several failure modes that can lead to oil burning, and each of them has their own specific symptoms.
Out of curiosity, what troubleshooting have you performed that leads you to think it’s PCV problem?
The reason I ask is that there a several failure modes that can lead to oil burning, and each of them has their own specific symptoms.
Here’s the problem with tapping for a larger bolt…
When you torque a bolt, you are actually stretching the bolt to supply a specific clamp load. 17 lb ft of torque for one size fastener does not equal the same amount of stretch/clamping force with a different sized fastener. So you’d end up with an uneven clamping force on your bearing cap. That’s not good.
But here’s what you can do… You probably haven’t stripped out the entire hole, and there’s most likely some good threads left further down. So you may be able to use a slightly longer bolt. Better yet, if you do have good threads at the bottom, you can install a stud instead. You just have to be extra careful that the new bolt/stud is not bottoming out, before reaching the desired torque.
If that fails, the head can be repaired by either welding up the hole and re-tapping, or by installing a Keensert (or similar product). Both methods require a skilled hand and fall outside of the skillset of the average DIYer.
Good luck
Here’s the problem with tapping for a larger bolt…
When you torque a bolt, you are actually stretching the bolt to supply a specific clamp load. 17 lb ft of torque for one size fastener does not equal the same amount of stretch/clamping force with a different sized fastener. So you’d end up with an uneven clamping force on your bearing cap. That’s not good.
But here’s what you can do… You probably haven’t stripped out the entire hole, and there’s most likely some good threads left further down. So you may be able to use a slightly longer bolt. Better yet, if you do have good threads at the bottom, you can install a stud instead. You just have to be extra careful that the new bolt/stud is not bottoming out, before reaching the desired torque.
If that fails, the head can be repaired by either welding up the hole and re-tapping, or by installing a Keensert (or similar product). Both methods require a skilled hand and fall outside of the skillset of the average DIYer.
Good luck
It’s pretty rare to fry a vehicle’s electronics from welding, but it does happen. When it does happen, it’s most likely due to a poor/dirty ground on the welder, or mounting the ground too far away from where the welding is being done. Even with a good close ground, some tig welders and plasma cutters can set up a fairly strong high-frequency field that can fry sensitive electronics.
Most of the automakers have put a TSB out warning of this issue with specific models. But typically muffler and trailer shops never disconnect the battery, and it works out… most of the time.
It’s pretty rare to fry a vehicle’s electronics from welding, but it does happen. When it does happen, it’s most likely due to a poor/dirty ground on the welder, or mounting the ground too far away from where the welding is being done. Even with a good close ground, some tig welders and plasma cutters can set up a fairly strong high-frequency field that can fry sensitive electronics.
Most of the automakers have put a TSB out warning of this issue with specific models. But typically muffler and trailer shops never disconnect the battery, and it works out… most of the time.
I work in the aerospace industry (think launchpads, not runways) and we use crimps and soldered joints fairly interchangeably. Initial assembly and bench-work is typically soldered. Yet while making repairs or modifications on the spacecraft, we use crimp connections almost exclusively. This is because it’s easy to reproduce a functional joint in difficult to reach places, or from uncomfortable working positions.
I’ve seen this debated many times, with PROS and CONS ranging from the fairly compelling to complete B.S. But here’s something to think about… regardless of what type of connection you make on a wire, it’ll eventually end in a crimp. Every connector on your vehicle is filled with pins and spade lugs that are crimped on to their respective wires.