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+1 on the driveshaft. My accord started doing the same thing after replacing one of the original half shafts with an aftermarket part.
+1 on the driveshaft. My accord started doing the same thing after replacing one of the original half shafts with an aftermarket part.
Thanks for the reply, but I should have been more clear about what was cracked. It is the rubber part of the mount that is cracked.
Thanks for the reply, but I should have been more clear about what was cracked. It is the rubber part of the mount that is cracked.
I also have a ’98 Accord 2.3 182,000 miles and just went through fixing all the oil leaks on it. There are five rubber seals on the passenger side of the motor that tend to get hard from age and heat and leak at about the age and miles of your car. In addition to the distributor o-ring, the internal seal in the distributor tends to leak also. Take off the distributor cap and look for oil leaking out inside the distributor. If it is leaking, you have to replace the distributor housing since the seal is not sold separately. I paid about $140.00 from Majestic Honda. Then look at the VTEC module (or spool valve assembly as Honda calls it) which is behind the distributor on the back of the cylinder head. There are three seals there that leak: an o-ring that seals the oil pressure switch, a seal that fits between the module and the cylinder head and a seal under the solenoid at the top of the module. The one under the solenoid is not sold separately and you have to replace the entire assembly to get it. My advice is to go ahead and replace the entire assembly if any of these seals are leaking. The entire module (spool valve assembly is about $100). My experience was that first the pressure switch o-ring leaked and I replaced it. The the seal between the module and the head leaked and I replaced it. Then it started leaking oil through the pressure switch ($50) and I replaced it and the 0-ring again. Then the seal under the solenoid cracked and sprayed oil all over the engine compartment and I had to replace the entire module. I could have saved a lot of time, money and aggravation by just replacing the assembly to start with. There is also an oil pressure sending unit that can leak, but mine hasn’t yet
The first thing to check for clunking in the front end of a Honda is for missing fasteners on the splash shield.
’63 Ford Falcon Sedan . 144 ci 6 cyl 2 speed auto
I bought it for $25 from a relative when I was 15. Everything on the car from the paint to all mechanical parts were completely worn out even though it was only a few years old when I bought it…..no idea how many miles on it. Top speed was 70 mph with blue smoke completely obscuring the view to the rear. The front end was so shot that I spent Saturdays cruising around buying used tires at gas stations for $2 to $3 a pop. (No tire centers in those days, people bought tires at gas stations) Some oil passages in the motor were plugged up and part of the valve train got no lubrication, so I had to replace pushrods and rocker arms when the pushrods wore through the stamped rockers. Pushrods were maybe a dollar and change and rocker arms were 2-3 dollars. I sold it for $50 a few months later when one of the front wheels fell off while I was driving to school.