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I tried everything to get the pin to move easily. From completely cleaning the bore and using as little silicone as possible to even buying another set of the rubbers. It still had resistance and would slowly push itself out.
The cut I made allowed the rubber to compress more and reduce the overall diameter. I don’t think it’ll bind or come off because the bore keeps it compressed around the pin groove.
There also was no play at all as I tested it with my hands. It was just a nice fit and allowed movement.
I guess time will tell how well it works but my brakes feel a lot better and more sensitive than before.
I’m not sure if the rubber guides they sell are just a tad too big for some cars? Maybe next time I’ll try oem and see if it’s any better
[quote=”dosmastr” post=190375]Spec is from 12.8Kohms to 19.something Kohms at 68 degrees F.
it was 80 degrees.My reading was 9kohm. Replaced only the coil and the car started right up!
I don’t get it![/quote]
Makes sense for the no start condition but the battery drain caused by the coil doesn’t make sense unless maybe the primary side of the coil was somehow shorting 12v
Secondary side connects to spark plug and ground
[quote=”dosmastr” post=190357]Get this crap guys:
About a year ago I came out to this car after it sat over the weekend and the battery was completely DEAD (thread is on here someplace). like 2volts at the terminals. bewildered, I went to wally world and bought a new battery. went to work and came home. (car sits 14hours) I could tell the new battery was weak but it started ok…. thinking maybe my 8 year old radio or amp may have failed I pulled those fuses to be safe. Nope, same thing next day. Somebody who knows about cars says its probably a diode in the alternator (after I ripped apart the thing looking for a short!!!) I discovered the current flow ceased when I removed the IG1 fuse in the engine bay (40 amps). so all winter I would have to pop the hood and pull the battery cable to preserve my new battery. Embarrassed as I had to do this at work sometimes in front of subordinates I picked up a new vehicle and left this guy sitting with the battery disconnected.Fast forward to yesterday. Replacing the ignition coil appears to have also solved the battery drain. it was pulling 600mA just sitting there off. Now it pulls 4mA sitting there off.
SO I never thought that could be a thing but evidently the resistance to the secondary coil falling to 9Kohms made the car no longer run but I guess it had a short in there someplace which was also killing the battery, but allowing it to run normally (until 2 days ago) I wish I had taken a photo but the plastic side of the coil did have some discoloration (like it had gotten very hot)
I mean I guess it makes sense now that I think about it but golly I never though that would be it. Why would only the resistance of the coil be what was preventing current flow on a shut down vehicle?[/quote]
What’s the resistance supposed to be at? An ignition coil is just wound wire, wire is coated with enamel to prevent it shorting to itself.
With heat the coating can melt and windings touch creating less resistance.
I can’t see how the secondary coil caused battery drain since it’s isolated from the primary coil. They don’t physically touch a coil works off magnetic flux.
Also ignition switch should keep any power from going to the distributer.
Did you only replace the coil or entire distributer? It would make more sense if the entire distributer was replaced as maybe a wire in the harness was bad touching a 12v line somewhere
Thanks and only when installing correct not a maintenance thing?
I ask because the service manual just has that pic I posted it’s not part of a replacement procedure
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I actually paid a shop to smoke test it and there weren’t any noticeable leaks. This is why it’s been so confusing to figure out.
If I apply 12v to the vent valve it does close.
Do you have any idea why when outside temps are 70F or higher the system passes the test?
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Thanks. The idea the vent valve is always open made it hard to believe the charcoal was the only thing keeping fuel vapors to the atmosphere if there’s an opening right there.
I’m curious, I have a repeated p1456 evap code in my 98 civic and I noticed on really warm days 70+ the code never sets and evap system passes the tests.
But if it’s colder than 70F the code always comes on. Any ideas on why? I’ve replaced the fuel cap and filler neck with no difference
[quote=”Tods213″ post=189480]Yes. The vent valve is normally open and the charcoal canister holds the vapors so they don’t get out into the atmosphere.[/quote]
Is there a reason the vent valve is normally open? Is it for when fueling the air has a place to go?
[quote=”college man” post=154554][quote=”myfavecoupe_” post=154522]What do you mean it can be + or – 50 rpm?[/quote]
Idle example. Idle is 750 rpm. the idle can go to 700 or 800 without seeing a problem.[/quote]
Are idles ever completely steady/constant or do they all cars fluctuate slightly?
So does the oil go through compression/evaporation as well or it’s separated through out the system?
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[quote=”Tods213″ post=189471]Yes, the charcoal acts like a filter and holds the hydrocarbons until the system can be purged.[/quote]
So even though the canister is always open to outside air by the vent solenoid, the charcoal keeps the fuel vapors from escaping to the atmosphere?
[quote=”WyrTwister” post=179677]Let me get this straight . Oil level / quantity between full and 1 quart low , until 2500 miles . Then goes low before it hits 3000 miles ? How low ?
DO NOT OPERATE THE VEHICLE LOW ON FLUIDS !
OK , an engine can either leak oil or burn oil . No oil on the ground below the car ? No oil in the coolant ? Does it have an oil cooler ?
Exhaust does not show the blue smoke characteristic ?
Check the PCV valve & that whole system .
Oil can be burned , going past the valve guides or the piston rings , or both . Either or both mean tearing the engine down to various degrees . You can do a ” dry ” and a ” wet ” compression test . This should yeald valuable information .
You have to ask your self , if you get to this point , value of the car vs. cost of repair ?
Best of luck ,
God bless
Wyr[/quote]Yes by 2500 miles from a fresh oil change the oil level is pretty much non-existent.
I’ve checked the pcv valve and it seems fine (rattles freely)
No oil cooler that I know of and no oil in coolant. No blue smoke from exhaust
[quote=”jonsey1886″ post=179661]Ideally oil should never be consumed, simply cycled through the pressurized system to cool and lubricate the engine. It means you have a leak somewhere either internal or external. Also are you using high mileage or fully synthetic oil?[/quote]
No I’m not I was using synthetic but with it being consumed so quickly I started using conventional to save on money
You need a schematic to determine which wires provide power to those circuits then check for an open circuit caused by corrosion or something else.