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I’m not really too concerned about the independent side of it right now (I’m a dealer tech), but I am concerned about the amount of service information available. Even for us techs who work at the dealer, there is very little information about how these systems actually work, or how they’re supposed to work. All the info Chrysler gives me is basically a more technically written operator’s manual, not a repair manual. It’s almost impossible to properly diagnose some customers’ complaints of what their system is doing, and even the technical help line doesn’t know what the hell is going on.
Another huge problem is the poor implementation of technical standards, like Bluetooth. This is not just on the vehicle manufacturer’s side, but the phone manufacturer’s side as well. Some implementations of Bluetooth aren’t as robust as others, or are buggy, and simply won’t work with the vehicle’s system. To me this is infuriating. I understand it and why it doesn’t work, but the customer doesn’t. If there’s a standard, why isn’t it being adhered to on both sides, phone and vehicle? Why should only some combinations of phone and radio work?
I’m not really too concerned about the independent side of it right now (I’m a dealer tech), but I am concerned about the amount of service information available. Even for us techs who work at the dealer, there is very little information about how these systems actually work, or how they’re supposed to work. All the info Chrysler gives me is basically a more technically written operator’s manual, not a repair manual. It’s almost impossible to properly diagnose some customers’ complaints of what their system is doing, and even the technical help line doesn’t know what the hell is going on.
Another huge problem is the poor implementation of technical standards, like Bluetooth. This is not just on the vehicle manufacturer’s side, but the phone manufacturer’s side as well. Some implementations of Bluetooth aren’t as robust as others, or are buggy, and simply won’t work with the vehicle’s system. To me this is infuriating. I understand it and why it doesn’t work, but the customer doesn’t. If there’s a standard, why isn’t it being adhered to on both sides, phone and vehicle? Why should only some combinations of phone and radio work?
That was a fun meet-up, great to meet you. Hope you weren’t as hungover as I surprisingly was this morning.
That was a fun meet-up, great to meet you. Hope you weren’t as hungover as I surprisingly was this morning.
Traffic on the I-5 looks okay on Sigalert.com right now, so I may make it up. Haven’t gotten on the freeway myself yet, though. And the 101 gives me pause…
Traffic on the I-5 looks okay on Sigalert.com right now, so I may make it up. Haven’t gotten on the freeway myself yet, though. And the 101 gives me pause…
I’ve thought about going back to working at Home Depot a number of times. Yeah, the schedule usually sucks, but the benefits are similar, even for part timers, and the wages are virtually identical. More if you factor in the lack of work on flat rate, or the extremely steep learning curve.
Don’t expect to make more than $12 per hour right out of the gate. That’s the typical rate for a lube tech/trainee. A rookie tech on flat rate would probably be around $16 per flagged hour, and around these parts, the top rate is $27 or $28 per flagged hour. That’s if you really know your stuff and are a great driveability tech. Expect to make $25 per flagged hour after ten years.
I’m sad to say it, but it’s not a good idea to get into this industry right now. Too many recent graduates of tech schools with starry-eyed dreams, too many old-timers fed up and leaving, and not enough support from the manufacturers or management.
However, if you love –truly love– fixing cars, and are willing to put up with the bullshit of warranty, inept service writers, and being accused of ripping people off by customers, it can be a fairly rewarding job. Nothing much else compares to figuring out a really hard problem and having it come out fixed.
Though personally, I’m looking into some sort of long-term secondary income, like rental property or something similar.
I’ve thought about going back to working at Home Depot a number of times. Yeah, the schedule usually sucks, but the benefits are similar, even for part timers, and the wages are virtually identical. More if you factor in the lack of work on flat rate, or the extremely steep learning curve.
Don’t expect to make more than $12 per hour right out of the gate. That’s the typical rate for a lube tech/trainee. A rookie tech on flat rate would probably be around $16 per flagged hour, and around these parts, the top rate is $27 or $28 per flagged hour. That’s if you really know your stuff and are a great driveability tech. Expect to make $25 per flagged hour after ten years.
I’m sad to say it, but it’s not a good idea to get into this industry right now. Too many recent graduates of tech schools with starry-eyed dreams, too many old-timers fed up and leaving, and not enough support from the manufacturers or management.
However, if you love –truly love– fixing cars, and are willing to put up with the bullshit of warranty, inept service writers, and being accused of ripping people off by customers, it can be a fairly rewarding job. Nothing much else compares to figuring out a really hard problem and having it come out fixed.
Though personally, I’m looking into some sort of long-term secondary income, like rental property or something similar.
When torquing with a crowfoot wrench put the crowfoot on the wrench at a ninety degree angle. That way you’ll be reading more of the torque transmitted to the bolt, and not just the torque transmitted to the crowfoot drive.
When torquing with a crowfoot wrench put the crowfoot on the wrench at a ninety degree angle. That way you’ll be reading more of the torque transmitted to the bolt, and not just the torque transmitted to the crowfoot drive.
The factory wiring diagrams aren’t that great either, lately. Have you seen Chrysler’s new abortion of a diagram system? It’s illogical, doesn’t show the entire circuit, and you have to manually tell it to show you important items. Every single technician I know hates the thing, and so do the official Chrysler trainers.
Oh, and they’re correct about seventy percent of the time. There’s still a lot of vehicles out there that the wiring diagram team obviously didn’t read the build data.
The factory wiring diagrams aren’t that great either, lately. Have you seen Chrysler’s new abortion of a diagram system? It’s illogical, doesn’t show the entire circuit, and you have to manually tell it to show you important items. Every single technician I know hates the thing, and so do the official Chrysler trainers.
Oh, and they’re correct about seventy percent of the time. There’s still a lot of vehicles out there that the wiring diagram team obviously didn’t read the build data.
A little bit of high temperature lubricant on the contact points (Those three/four pads where the sides of the shoes sit, as well as the anchor point) can help greatly. Be sure to use the right lubricant. Regular chassis lube won’t do, as the friction heat of brakes can quickly break down the grease. You need something like Lubriplate or dedicated brake lubricant.
New hardware is always a good idea.
If the rear drums weren’t machined it’s possible that the shoe linings have become glazed, or the drum inside surface is glazed. You should resurface the drums and rotors whenever replacing the pads or shoes, as they both wear to each other, and one new part against an old worn part is often a recipe for problems.