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Sounds like you have a faulty sensor mate. I believe that it is located left of the dizzy on this motor not sure but it should be there π
I work for a Toyota dealership and it shouldn’t be anywhere near black and should be a strong red colour. I suggest you change your fluid and filter ASAP! Otherwise you could be chasing for a new box. π
I work for a Toyota dealership and it shouldn’t be anywhere near black and should be a strong red colour. I suggest you change your fluid and filter ASAP! Otherwise you could be chasing for a new box. π
I can’t be 100% sure unless I was personally there to feel them but pretty sure they’re a bust go to your nearest parts place and ask for new hub assembleys should be about $80 each
I can’t be 100% sure unless I was personally there to feel them but pretty sure they’re a bust go to your nearest parts place and ask for new hub assembleys should be about $80 each
Hello my good people! π Sorry to intrude but I was wondering if you are getting the engine warning light on when you go to turn the car over. Your ECU could of just died. I had this problem with a 1995 Toyota Camry a little while ago. The ECU was dry but something had caused it to short I couldn’t get the engine check light to come up meaning that their is no response from the ECU which means it wont send any information to any EFI based parts such as the fuel pump. If you are the next place to look is probably your MAF sensor because if this doesn’t have a good ground or there is water between the temp sense and the ground point it works as if it were dead.
Hello my good people! π Sorry to intrude but I was wondering if you are getting the engine warning light on when you go to turn the car over. Your ECU could of just died. I had this problem with a 1995 Toyota Camry a little while ago. The ECU was dry but something had caused it to short I couldn’t get the engine check light to come up meaning that their is no response from the ECU which means it wont send any information to any EFI based parts such as the fuel pump. If you are the next place to look is probably your MAF sensor because if this doesn’t have a good ground or there is water between the temp sense and the ground point it works as if it were dead.
I know I know I’m only new to this forum but I believe both Synthetic oils and Mineral oils have their places in the automotive world as well any other world where oils are used. Most newer cars will run better and smoother on Synthetic oil but this is because they are built for Synthetic oils such as older motors/vehicles have been made with Mineral oil in mind. Using Synthetic oils on older engines/vehicles can cause the oil to seep past seals or even cause overheating, “pinging” and blown seals in worse cases. I use Penrite and always have. They provide good quality Synthetic and Mineral oils. They also make oils to suit “vintage” vehicles. Sorry if I upset anyone but this is what I believe and have learnt from experience π
I know I know I’m only new to this forum but I believe both Synthetic oils and Mineral oils have their places in the automotive world as well any other world where oils are used. Most newer cars will run better and smoother on Synthetic oil but this is because they are built for Synthetic oils such as older motors/vehicles have been made with Mineral oil in mind. Using Synthetic oils on older engines/vehicles can cause the oil to seep past seals or even cause overheating, “pinging” and blown seals in worse cases. I use Penrite and always have. They provide good quality Synthetic and Mineral oils. They also make oils to suit “vintage” vehicles. Sorry if I upset anyone but this is what I believe and have learnt from experience π
Hello ! My name is Trent “Teddy” Martin and I am a technician at Toyota currently looking at expanding my own setup π . I’m loving working at Toyota but can’t wait to have my own workshop setup so I have a larger variety of vehicles.
Hello ! My name is Trent “Teddy” Martin and I am a technician at Toyota currently looking at expanding my own setup π . I’m loving working at Toyota but can’t wait to have my own workshop setup so I have a larger variety of vehicles.
It sounds like you may have a bad/arcing ground causing the to jerk. Another case I’ve come across was a slim line crack in the radiator only visible under heavy load spraying out onto the dizzy causing it to misfire making the car jerk.(You said no coolant in the radiator. Had to go somewhere )
It sounds like you may have a bad/arcing ground causing the to jerk. Another case I’ve come across was a slim line crack in the radiator only visible under heavy load spraying out onto the dizzy causing it to misfire making the car jerk.(You said no coolant in the radiator. Had to go somewhere )
Then you should remove and check your blower motor and get the system cleaned. This has to be done professionally because the mist that kills the bacteria….really isn’t good for you trust me haha goodluck
Then you should remove and check your blower motor and get the system cleaned. This has to be done professionally because the mist that kills the bacteria….really isn’t good for you trust me haha goodluck
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