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Yep. Scotty gets you into the ballpark but serves up what I call “Auto Repair Light”. Kinda like “If your engine is running rough, stay tuned. Cause today I’m going to show you how to entirely rebuild your engine in 3 minutes.” LOL !!!
I think he’s helpful if you really know what you’re doing, but as far as genuinely useful instructional videos, Eric is top shelf.Yep. Scotty gets you into the ballpark but serves up what I call “Auto Repair Light”. Kinda like “If your engine is running rough, stay tuned. Cause today I’m going to show you how to entirely rebuild your engine in 3 minutes.” LOL !!!
I think he’s helpful if you really know what you’re doing, but as far as genuinely useful instructional videos, Eric is top shelf.You’ll need a grinder of some sort (a die grinder with a cutoff wheel is ideal), a flat chisel, hammer, chunk of sandpaper or crocus cloth, a new bearing and this video. :>)
Be relatively gentle. You want to avoid scoring the axle by cutting too deep or damaging it with the chisel. You may not have to go all the way through the race to get it to loosen it’s grip.
May the bearing forces be with you
SparksYou’ll need a grinder of some sort (a die grinder with a cutoff wheel is ideal), a flat chisel, hammer, chunk of sandpaper or crocus cloth, a new bearing and this video. :>)
Be relatively gentle. You want to avoid scoring the axle by cutting too deep or damaging it with the chisel. You may not have to go all the way through the race to get it to loosen it’s grip.
May the bearing forces be with you
SparksThe hole should be straight, I agree. But to get it there, he could pull the manifold or borrow a 3/8 right angle drill, air or A.C. He should also use the insertion tool that comes in the kit and follow the directions.
And, he might have better luck with E-Z lock inserts.
The hole should be straight, I agree. But to get it there, he could pull the manifold or borrow a 3/8 right angle drill, air or A.C. He should also use the insertion tool that comes in the kit and follow the directions.
And, he might have better luck with E-Z lock inserts.
There’s another method. I’d drill it out, measure it, then tap it and put a stainless steel “heli coil” insert into the hole and you be fine. Get the Heli Coil kits at auto parts stores and this video from Dwayne at RealFixesRealFast.com shows exactly how to do it, for a manifold bolt no less, in this video.
You don’t have to be a journeyman machinist to do this, but be careful and don’t let it frustrate you. If you bugger it up, I would foresee that you’re going to have some real headaches.
Happier Motoring.
SparksThere’s another method. I’d drill it out, measure it, then tap it and put a stainless steel “heli coil” insert into the hole and you be fine. Get the Heli Coil kits at auto parts stores and this video from Dwayne at RealFixesRealFast.com shows exactly how to do it, for a manifold bolt no less, in this video.
You don’t have to be a journeyman machinist to do this, but be careful and don’t let it frustrate you. If you bugger it up, I would foresee that you’re going to have some real headaches.
Happier Motoring.
SparksNot really a pain but you ought to keep track of what rod came from which part of the door assembly. They usually have a bend that forms a hook at the attachment point and they just lift out of that.
One way to help you get it back together if you don’t have a shop drawing from the service manual, is to take a pix of the door frame interior with the glass out of the way, using a cell phone. Make sure you get a wide angle view and maybe some closer ones to show the hook-up. Maybe send us a half-dozen wallet size
or post them in the ETCG “HOW To Forum” a couple of forms south of this one on the forum index. Another way is to just mark them with say a number to number system using a chunk of masking tape and a grease pen.
SparksNot really a pain but you ought to keep track of what rod came from which part of the door assembly. They usually have a bend that forms a hook at the attachment point and they just lift out of that.
One way to help you get it back together if you don’t have a shop drawing from the service manual, is to take a pix of the door frame interior with the glass out of the way, using a cell phone. Make sure you get a wide angle view and maybe some closer ones to show the hook-up. Maybe send us a half-dozen wallet size
or post them in the ETCG “HOW To Forum” a couple of forms south of this one on the forum index. Another way is to just mark them with say a number to number system using a chunk of masking tape and a grease pen.
SparksI’d take it back to the garage where you had the clutch replaced. If you’re hearing starter “grinding” noises when it’s engaged, while yes it could need to be shimmed, but if you didn’t have that before the work was done, the shop needs to figure out why. After they resurfaced the flywheel (and I assume the ring gear) did they check the tolerances before they put it back together?
The clutch squealing sounds like a defective throw-out bearing. That may not be the shop’s fault, but if they got a bad one, they still need to replace it because it’s not likely it passed the road test before they gave it back to you. Besides, if you try and fix this yourself, they would probably claim the defects are because of what you did not what the shop did.
You might find this video helpful as well, as far as how a clutch operates with it’s parts.
And for your enlightenment, how to diagnose a bad clutch.
Knowledge gives you power. ;>)
Sparks