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Welcome to the forum. banana:
My initial thought is to stop replacing parts until you know for sure that they’re defective. We’ve all been tempted and have done that but thorough diagnosis can save you bucks and headaches down the road (once you get there). Eric’s video and the one from Scotty Kilmer (below) is useful I think, to help you get back to some basic diagnostics in a no start condition.For example, when you checked the coil for spark, where were you checking? At the coil itself or end of the plug wire for the number one cylinder? Is the engine rotating? Have you checked the oil?
And here’s ECTG’s video on no crank no start quick checks.
Welcome to the forum. banana:
My initial thought is to stop replacing parts until you know for sure that they’re defective. We’ve all been tempted and have done that but thorough diagnosis can save you bucks and headaches down the road (once you get there). Eric’s video and the one from Scotty Kilmer (below) is useful I think, to help you get back to some basic diagnostics in a no start condition.For example, when you checked the coil for spark, where were you checking? At the coil itself or end of the plug wire for the number one cylinder? Is the engine rotating? Have you checked the oil?
And here’s ECTG’s video on no crank no start quick checks.
I agree with CM. For an extra 25 bucks or so, you get some versatility, a longer hose which is always nice and storage capacity. That’s always handy. If this were just a one shot series of tests on one type of vehicle then yeah, the cheaper model might do you fine. OTOH, ETCG’s philosophy to buy the best tools you can afford, IMO, is sage advice even if you’re not going to make a living with them.
Moreover, I know that some of the testing equipment we’d buy (or be offered to buy) from SnapOn, MAC, Cornwall and others, is probably made by other manufacturers and labeled with the bigger name logo with a large price mark-up.
In essence, I think having a good, reasonably priced and versatile compression gauge in your arsenal is a good investment and you wouldn’t go wrong with OTC.
SparksI agree with CM. For an extra 25 bucks or so, you get some versatility, a longer hose which is always nice and storage capacity. That’s always handy. If this were just a one shot series of tests on one type of vehicle then yeah, the cheaper model might do you fine. OTOH, ETCG’s philosophy to buy the best tools you can afford, IMO, is sage advice even if you’re not going to make a living with them.
Moreover, I know that some of the testing equipment we’d buy (or be offered to buy) from SnapOn, MAC, Cornwall and others, is probably made by other manufacturers and labeled with the bigger name logo with a large price mark-up.
In essence, I think having a good, reasonably priced and versatile compression gauge in your arsenal is a good investment and you wouldn’t go wrong with OTC.
SparksYeah, that’s why I like the Halderman books. Last week I posted this reply to a question Drthri035 asked about Haynes manuals.
“Haynes and Chilton books are really helpful to get you into the ballpark on fixing a lot of different cars. Over the years, however, as to older models they’ve evolved to combine multiple model years into one volume and become less specific. In a more perfect world, if you’re trying to fix a specific vehicle, ideally if you can lay your hands on a printed service manual for that car from the manufacturer, you’d be stylin’.”
“Eric covers that subject here along with some comparisons between publishers like Haynes and Service manuals put out by the manufacturer. You can find used service manuals at EBay and Amazon.”
OTOH, if you want to learn a systems approach to repairing cars, here’s a a book on Automotive Technology by a guy named James Halderman who is a great teacher, an excellent writer, and has been in the biz a long time. Amazon has the text books and lab manuals available so you can teach yourself at your own pace or find specific information. A newer volume, used is about $39 bucks. And you can find them here.
http://www.amazon.com/AUTOMOTIVE-TECHNOLOGY-Pri…iagnosis+and+serviceHalderman has ASE type study guides available for all his books. They’re also supplied with CD study discs and he’s constantly updating them. I don’t know how this guy finds time to teach but he’s good. Check him out.
SparksSparks
Yeah, that’s why I like the Halderman books. Last week I posted this reply to a question Drthri035 asked about Haynes manuals.
“Haynes and Chilton books are really helpful to get you into the ballpark on fixing a lot of different cars. Over the years, however, as to older models they’ve evolved to combine multiple model years into one volume and become less specific. In a more perfect world, if you’re trying to fix a specific vehicle, ideally if you can lay your hands on a printed service manual for that car from the manufacturer, you’d be stylin’.”
“Eric covers that subject here along with some comparisons between publishers like Haynes and Service manuals put out by the manufacturer. You can find used service manuals at EBay and Amazon.”
OTOH, if you want to learn a systems approach to repairing cars, here’s a a book on Automotive Technology by a guy named James Halderman who is a great teacher, an excellent writer, and has been in the biz a long time. Amazon has the text books and lab manuals available so you can teach yourself at your own pace or find specific information. A newer volume, used is about $39 bucks. And you can find them here.
http://www.amazon.com/AUTOMOTIVE-TECHNOLOGY-Pri…iagnosis+and+serviceHalderman has ASE type study guides available for all his books. They’re also supplied with CD study discs and he’s constantly updating them. I don’t know how this guy finds time to teach but he’s good. Check him out.
SparksSparks
I agree completely. It seems that I’ve seen some batteries die completely almost to the minute that their warranty expires. More accurate than an atomic clock at the Naval Observatory. They’re often supplied by car manufacturers as part of their new car, taillight warranty. When the tail lights are out of sight it usually means the battery has failed and your warranty is up. LOL !
I agree completely. It seems that I’ve seen some batteries die completely almost to the minute that their warranty expires. More accurate than an atomic clock at the Naval Observatory. They’re often supplied by car manufacturers as part of their new car, taillight warranty. When the tail lights are out of sight it usually means the battery has failed and your warranty is up. LOL !
Haynes and Chilton books are really helpful to get you into the ballpark on fixing a lot of different cars. Over the years, however, as to older models they’ve evolved to combine multiple model years into one volume and become less specific. In a more perfect world, if you’re trying to fix a specific vehicle, ideally if you can lay your hands on a printed service manual for that car from the manufacturer, you’d be stylin’.
Eric covers that subject here along with some comparisons between publishers like Haynes and Service manuals put out by the manufacturer. You can find used service manuals at EBay and Amazon. Eric’s spin on manuals is here:
OTOH, if you want to learn a systems approach to repairing cars, here’s a a book on Automotive Technology by a guy named James Haldeman who is a great teacher, an excellent writer, and has been in the biz a long time. Amazon has the text books and lab manuals available so you can teach yourself at your own pace or find specific information. A newer volume, used is about $39 bucks. And you can find them here.
Sparks
Haynes and Chilton books are really helpful to get you into the ballpark on fixing a lot of different cars. Over the years, however, as to older models they’ve evolved to combine multiple model years into one volume and become less specific. In a more perfect world, if you’re trying to fix a specific vehicle, ideally if you can lay your hands on a printed service manual for that car from the manufacturer, you’d be stylin’.
Eric covers that subject here along with some comparisons between publishers like Haynes and Service manuals put out by the manufacturer. You can find used service manuals at EBay and Amazon. Eric’s spin on manuals is here:
OTOH, if you want to learn a systems approach to repairing cars, here’s a a book on Automotive Technology by a guy named James Haldeman who is a great teacher, an excellent writer, and has been in the biz a long time. Amazon has the text books and lab manuals available so you can teach yourself at your own pace or find specific information. A newer volume, used is about $39 bucks. And you can find them here.
Sparks
Doing a parasitic draw test as Wysetech suggested is always an excellent idea cause it helps you find electrical drains. Also check your cables, clamps, connections and fluid level in the battery.
If a battery isn’t used regularly, sometimes even the ones that are newer develop a problem called sulfication where sulfuric acid breaks down into sulfur and attaches itself to the plates and they become ineffective at producing current. I assume this is a wet battery. If so there’s something you can try:
Find someone with a charger that will do a deep charge at low amperage and leave it on for 24 hours or so. The process is called Desulfication mode or deep charge mode. That knocks the sulfur off the plates and back into solution, the battery generates and holds a charge and you’re back in business. FYI, the one I use is from West Marine. Less than 100 bucks and it works great.
Parts stores are in business to sell things like batteries. So before hassling with return, prorating the cost of a new one at walmart etc., try the desulfication route. OTOH, batteries are clearly marked with a date of manufacture code, usually a permanent sticker on the top between terminals. That’s how they determine the approx date it was sold and installed. So if it’s their brand and it’s up to them to recognize it and they should give you credit for the remaining predicted life of the battery, e.g., depending on whether it says it’s a 36 month, or 60 month etc. without the receipt. If not, ask to see the manager. If still not, Welcome to Warmart and promise the manager you and your family, friends and your friends friends will never buy even a Snickers bar from them again. At that point, chances are they’ll replace it without a receipt.
But I’d try the desulfication deep charge and see if it comes back to life. You should be able to charge it back to 12.6 volts and then do your tests as ETCG suggests. Including a starter draw test and a charging test for your alternator. You’ll find them here:
and over here:
Happy Fathers Day
Sparks.Doing a parasitic draw test as Wysetech suggested is always an excellent idea cause it helps you find electrical drains. Also check your cables, clamps, connections and fluid level in the battery.
If a battery isn’t used regularly, sometimes even the ones that are newer develop a problem called sulfication where sulfuric acid breaks down into sulfur and attaches itself to the plates and they become ineffective at producing current. I assume this is a wet battery. If so there’s something you can try:
Find someone with a charger that will do a deep charge at low amperage and leave it on for 24 hours or so. The process is called Desulfication mode or deep charge mode. That knocks the sulfur off the plates and back into solution, the battery generates and holds a charge and you’re back in business. FYI, the one I use is from West Marine. Less than 100 bucks and it works great.
Parts stores are in business to sell things like batteries. So before hassling with return, prorating the cost of a new one at walmart etc., try the desulfication route. OTOH, batteries are clearly marked with a date of manufacture code, usually a permanent sticker on the top between terminals. That’s how they determine the approx date it was sold and installed. So if it’s their brand and it’s up to them to recognize it and they should give you credit for the remaining predicted life of the battery, e.g., depending on whether it says it’s a 36 month, or 60 month etc. without the receipt. If not, ask to see the manager. If still not, Welcome to Warmart and promise the manager you and your family, friends and your friends friends will never buy even a Snickers bar from them again. At that point, chances are they’ll replace it without a receipt.
But I’d try the desulfication deep charge and see if it comes back to life. You should be able to charge it back to 12.6 volts and then do your tests as ETCG suggests. Including a starter draw test and a charging test for your alternator. You’ll find them here:
and over here:
Happy Fathers Day
Sparks.I found you a six part YouTube video on how to pull the dash out of a 2000 Cavalier. Yikes ! It’s over here and it ain’t pretty.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=heater+core+replacement+chevy+cavalier&oq=heater+core+replacement+chevy+c&gs_l=youtube.1.0.33i21l2.77401.79534.0.83812.2.2.0.0.0.0.101.200.1j1.2.0…0.0…1ac.1.11.youtube.4WDjN5Y6iT0Before dismantling the dash I have a suggestion that might be worth a shot.
I don’t recommend stop-leak like products for any reason. At best, I find they may offer a temporary fix and I prefer to fix the source of the leaks. So here’s what I was thinking you could try.
If you can isolate this leak to a crack in an inlet tube or outlet, I believe those pieces are actually made of plastic. I would try and expose the inlet or outlet as best you can without taking a Sawzall to the firewall (JK), and either try and seal the leak with something like Q-Bond plastic adhesive and then slip the hose over the repair and clamp it beyond the crack.
Or, get a piece of plastic tube like out of ABS plastic or PVC that would fit snuggly over the existing inlet or outlet tube. First try and seal the leak with that glue and then glue the piping sleeve on using the Q-Bond glue. Let it harden for 24 hours or so before reconnecting the hoses to the new extension(s). I say use plastic tube since I haven’t actually tried QB with rubber tubing. Then check it for leaks. While it might sound a bit Rube Goldberg-esque, it might keep you out of the Remove the Dash woods.
If you get this lash-up to hold, at that point I’d back flush the heater core and probably the whole cooling system. You can buy Prestone cooling system flush kits at parts stores. They cost less than 10 bucks each. A can of cooling sys. flush and a couple of gallons of anti-freeze and hopefully your son is back to happy motoring without leaks.
SparksI found you a six part YouTube video on how to pull the dash out of a 2000 Cavalier. Yikes ! It’s over here and it ain’t pretty.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=heater+core+replacement+chevy+cavalier&oq=heater+core+replacement+chevy+c&gs_l=youtube.1.0.33i21l2.77401.79534.0.83812.2.2.0.0.0.0.101.200.1j1.2.0…0.0…1ac.1.11.youtube.4WDjN5Y6iT0Before dismantling the dash I have a suggestion that might be worth a shot.
I don’t recommend stop-leak like products for any reason. At best, I find they may offer a temporary fix and I prefer to fix the source of the leaks. So here’s what I was thinking you could try.
If you can isolate this leak to a crack in an inlet tube or outlet, I believe those pieces are actually made of plastic. I would try and expose the inlet or outlet as best you can without taking a Sawzall to the firewall (JK), and either try and seal the leak with something like Q-Bond plastic adhesive and then slip the hose over the repair and clamp it beyond the crack.
Or, get a piece of plastic tube like out of ABS plastic or PVC that would fit snuggly over the existing inlet or outlet tube. First try and seal the leak with that glue and then glue the piping sleeve on using the Q-Bond glue. Let it harden for 24 hours or so before reconnecting the hoses to the new extension(s). I say use plastic tube since I haven’t actually tried QB with rubber tubing. Then check it for leaks. While it might sound a bit Rube Goldberg-esque, it might keep you out of the Remove the Dash woods.
If you get this lash-up to hold, at that point I’d back flush the heater core and probably the whole cooling system. You can buy Prestone cooling system flush kits at parts stores. They cost less than 10 bucks each. A can of cooling sys. flush and a couple of gallons of anti-freeze and hopefully your son is back to happy motoring without leaks.
SparksOnce you chose the car you’re going to rally in, I’d strongly recommend that you rally round the wiring diagrams and before you start cutting, pulling and removing, look at what the component is wired to and what else is in the circuit. Then decide whether you need to rewire or bypass something in order for other things to function, like the ignition.
For example, in some older Fords, if you disconnect the seatbelt sensor in the passenger seat, it disconnects power to the idle control on the carb leading to rough idle and stalling.
Good luck !