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I’d take it back to the garage where you had the clutch replaced. If you’re hearing starter “grinding” noises when it’s engaged, while yes it could need to be shimmed, but if you didn’t have that before the work was done, the shop needs to figure out why. After they resurfaced the flywheel (and I assume the ring gear) did they check the tolerances before they put it back together?
The clutch squealing sounds like a defective throw-out bearing. That may not be the shop’s fault, but if they got a bad one, they still need to replace it because it’s not likely it passed the road test before they gave it back to you. Besides, if you try and fix this yourself, they would probably claim the defects are because of what you did not what the shop did.
You might find this video helpful as well, as far as how a clutch operates with it’s parts.
And for your enlightenment, how to diagnose a bad clutch.
Knowledge gives you power. ;>)
SparksDo you know whether the brakes came standard on this really cool ride or whether they were upgrades? For example, take a look over here and see if this gets you going in the right direction:
https://sites.google.com/site/scimsharp/technical-section/brake-upgradesAND to supplement the above article, here’s a site you might also find helpful too.
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=9354Of course, here’s the Scimtar Web.
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=81&sid=61f00a34a51f093e9305b6c7f541343bLooks like a very interesting vehicle.
SparksDo you know whether the brakes came standard on this really cool ride or whether they were upgrades? For example, take a look over here and see if this gets you going in the right direction:
https://sites.google.com/site/scimsharp/technical-section/brake-upgradesAND to supplement the above article, here’s a site you might also find helpful too.
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=9354Of course, here’s the Scimtar Web.
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=81&sid=61f00a34a51f093e9305b6c7f541343bLooks like a very interesting vehicle.
SparksThats’s a great question. While I can’t speak to which outfit produces the best product, I’ll offer a couple of suggestions.
First and foremost, read the warranty. Pay close attention to the length of the warranty AND what it covers, and what they will do to make it right during that time period. For example, if you blow a head gasket during that period, are they going to just replace the head gasket and send you on your way? OR are they going to machine it if it really needs it, replace all your contaminated fluids including the oil and coolant, or make you pay for all the incidentals?
If it covers a short period, like a few months or a few thousand miles, look to purchase a separate warranty by a reputable company. One a dealer or shop recommends and one that’s from some company that’s been around awhile. Once you get a few recommendations, check them out, read the warranty really carefully and make sure all their coverage is for is to replace what you have with a used engine rather than one that’s really been remanufactured.
Be a good consumer and you’ll go far. Literally and figuratively. ;>)
SparksThats’s a great question. While I can’t speak to which outfit produces the best product, I’ll offer a couple of suggestions.
First and foremost, read the warranty. Pay close attention to the length of the warranty AND what it covers, and what they will do to make it right during that time period. For example, if you blow a head gasket during that period, are they going to just replace the head gasket and send you on your way? OR are they going to machine it if it really needs it, replace all your contaminated fluids including the oil and coolant, or make you pay for all the incidentals?
If it covers a short period, like a few months or a few thousand miles, look to purchase a separate warranty by a reputable company. One a dealer or shop recommends and one that’s from some company that’s been around awhile. Once you get a few recommendations, check them out, read the warranty really carefully and make sure all their coverage is for is to replace what you have with a used engine rather than one that’s really been remanufactured.
Be a good consumer and you’ll go far. Literally and figuratively. ;>)
SparksHow about this: Start off with a blend of 1/2 and 1/2 or 50% synthetic and 50% conventional of the same viscosity. See how it does. If it seems to do well then you can go to full synthetic next time around and if it seems to be developing drips or leaks, you can always switch back to fully conventional. No harm, no foul.
The important thing to remember and consider, is to change your oil regularly. I think thats
really the key to all this no matter which oil you decide to use.
Happy motoring. ;>)
SparksHow about this: Start off with a blend of 1/2 and 1/2 or 50% synthetic and 50% conventional of the same viscosity. See how it does. If it seems to do well then you can go to full synthetic next time around and if it seems to be developing drips or leaks, you can always switch back to fully conventional. No harm, no foul.
The important thing to remember and consider, is to change your oil regularly. I think thats
really the key to all this no matter which oil you decide to use.
Happy motoring. ;>)
SparksThere’s confusion about whether to change a used car that’s been using standard viscosity oil over to synthetic. And there’s a fair amount of debate on the issue. My own thought is to continue to use whatever the owners manual says to use and not to change paddles in mid-stream. There are sometimes a few complications presented if you do. Engine noise that didn’t occur before the change, oil seeping through leaks that never seemed to exist before, oh, and increased cost especially for true synthetic rather than just blended synthetics.
Synthetic does NOT cause leaks in worn engines. But because it’s a different flow rate, thickness (viscosity is different than flow rate) it just finds areas to seep or leak thru more easily than a heavier multi-grade standard (regular) oil. That’s especially true in engines with more rather than less wear than a newer engine, like in terms of seals, rings, etc.
You might never guess, but that’s why ECTG has done TWO videos on the subject. Take a look:
And here’s the second which offers some clarification of the first including reasons to switch or not to switch, when you can switch from one to the other and back again:
Take it light. ;>)
SparksThere’s confusion about whether to change a used car that’s been using standard viscosity oil over to synthetic. And there’s a fair amount of debate on the issue. My own thought is to continue to use whatever the owners manual says to use and not to change paddles in mid-stream. There are sometimes a few complications presented if you do. Engine noise that didn’t occur before the change, oil seeping through leaks that never seemed to exist before, oh, and increased cost especially for true synthetic rather than just blended synthetics.
Synthetic does NOT cause leaks in worn engines. But because it’s a different flow rate, thickness (viscosity is different than flow rate) it just finds areas to seep or leak thru more easily than a heavier multi-grade standard (regular) oil. That’s especially true in engines with more rather than less wear than a newer engine, like in terms of seals, rings, etc.
You might never guess, but that’s why ECTG has done TWO videos on the subject. Take a look:
And here’s the second which offers some clarification of the first including reasons to switch or not to switch, when you can switch from one to the other and back again:
Take it light. ;>)
SparksYou can find torque specs in the GM service manual for this ride. Haynes makes one for this model year (and others in the same edition) and Amazon sells it.
AND this one is a freebie download that should have them too.
http://www.2shared.com/document/GvR3FTyx/2004-2008_Pontiac_Grand_Prix_S.htmlHere’s another one:
http://www.slideshare.net/ert43/pontiac-grand-prix-20042008-repair-manual-18987796Sparks
Also a couple of other ECTG videos you might want to check out: Torquing lug nuts.
This one covers how to replace front disc calipers and bleed them.
You can find torque specs in the GM service manual for this ride. Haynes makes one for this model year (and others in the same edition) and Amazon sells it.
AND this one is a freebie download that should have them too.
http://www.2shared.com/document/GvR3FTyx/2004-2008_Pontiac_Grand_Prix_S.htmlHere’s another one:
http://www.slideshare.net/ert43/pontiac-grand-prix-20042008-repair-manual-18987796Sparks
Also a couple of other ECTG videos you might want to check out: Torquing lug nuts.
This one covers how to replace front disc calipers and bleed them.
It could be. Best thing I think you can do is jack it up, spin the wheel and hear what’s going on.
It could also be a low pad indicator grating against the rotor so listen for the grating there and pull the tire, check the caliper and pads.Here’s some videos to check out that you might find useful. This one is how to check and replace a bad caliper.
How to spot and replace a stuck caliper.
This one applies to Accords but you might check it out anyway.
Feel free to let us know how you’re doing.
Take it light. B)
SparksIt could be. Best thing I think you can do is jack it up, spin the wheel and hear what’s going on.
It could also be a low pad indicator grating against the rotor so listen for the grating there and pull the tire, check the caliper and pads.Here’s some videos to check out that you might find useful. This one is how to check and replace a bad caliper.
How to spot and replace a stuck caliper.
This one applies to Accords but you might check it out anyway.
Feel free to let us know how you’re doing.
Take it light. B)
Sparks