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[suleman09]

So I tried flushing the system. I siphoned all I could out of the reservoir and turned the wheel lock to lock but barely any more fluid came through the reservoir. I took out all I could and put in fresh fluid but it still has the same whine.

[suleman09]

Nothing interesting happened, they just stopped working. No accidents or anything.

I took the door panel off to see if I could see something happening. I hit the switch and heard the locking/unlocking sounds but nothing was happening

[suleman09]

I feel like you’re building a used car inventory and going to make a ETCG Dealership lol

At least we’ll know those cars are actually in good shape haha

Not a problem brother, if you or your family ever need help buying a car, I’d love to return the help you’ve given me.

[suleman09]

Hey Eric, I just recently ran across this video. I’m not sure if you’re in the market again or maybe someone in your family is in the market for a car, I have years of experience buying and selling cars and I would like to offer you my help.

Because of your videos, I have been able to save myself, my family and friends so much money. I want to try to give back, so if you or anyone in your family is in the market. Let me know!

[suleman09]

I did use a good size hammer and its only moving a hair and I did remove that one screw holding the rotor in but still no luck

[suleman09]

lol yea i’ve been sold on the timing job since the beginning but i was just hoping it wasnt the timing. but it seems like ill just have to go with it now really.

thanks everyone. ill see if i can get the timing done and let you all know if that fixed the problem

[suleman09]

ok just to answer one of the questions i’ve been asked,
i did erase the codes and once i started the car the light turned right back on.
is that worse than the light being off but then turning back on after a while of driving?

[suleman09]

thank you, that’ll be my next step. ill keep you posted.

thanks

[suleman09]

ok so i hooked up my OBD scanner to the car again and these are all of the codes that came up.

PO335 Crankshaft Sensor A CRKT Malfunction
PO341 Camshaft Position Sensor A – Bank 1 CRKT Range/Perf
P1014 Manf Control Fuel + Air Metering, Auxiliary Emission Control
PO507 Idle Control System RPM High (NOTE: this one came up after replacing the computer and solenoid, this wasn’t up before)

And also, i didn’t do any major check on the timing belt, but i did take the cover off and pull and push on the belt and it didn’t budge a bit. I checked the belt on the right side of the camshaft.

I hope someone can give me a good idea on this.

[suleman09]

Quoted From dreamer2355:

Keep us posted on this issue too. I’m curious of the out come.

lol will do

[suleman09]

Welceom Walter! I hope you enjoy and learn a lot from the videos Eric puts up, no matter how much you know you can always learn more and I have learned so much from Eric!
Enjoy the site!

[suleman09]

So I took my car to a local shop to get the balance checked.
Turns out the tires I bought were actually uneven on the tread. So i bought new tires from tirerack.com

[suleman09]

Quoted From Beefy:

They sold you mismatched tires? I hope you got your money back…

yea i called them, they said they would take care of it so we’ll see.

[suleman09]

Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:

1. Suspension parts do NOT cause vibrations, they can make them worse but they are not responsible for causing vibration, things that rotate cause vibration and BECAUSE you just had the tires replace I would recommend taking them back to recheck the balance and also to see if there is a tire problem, it’s not out of the realm of possibility that you threw one of the wheel balance weights that was just installed, in fact it happens all the time and some tires are better than others so if there is a problem with one of the tires it may show up right away, it could also be an issue with the installation.

2. Bad inner tie rods have nothing to do with a PS rack leak it’s just easier to replace the entire rack if you have a leak and loose inner tie rods because a new unit would come complete with new inner tie rods and new seals to prevent leaks. I’d have to see it for myself to make a real assessment on that however.

3. I’d say a good round number would be 15-20lbft on the pan bolts but as suggested check the service manual for the correct spec.

1. man i really hope they didn’t mess anything up or put on any bad tires
2. ok, i bought the rack so ill be replacing that soon.
3. that helps i only put it down to like 10 before so i need to go tighter lol

thanks!

[suleman09]

Quoted From dreamer2355:

1) For the Mustang, I would rotate the tires to see if the vibrations go away. Do you feel any pulsation in the brake pedal? If you do, you may have warped rotors. The only fix for those is to have them cut or replaced with a quality set.

To check for rotor an un even surface, you will need to use a dial indicator gage and check for run out.

2) I would just replace the entire power steering rack. If you have power steering fluid gathering up in the bellows, the inner seals are leaking. Power steering racks usually come with the inner tie rods already installed. You will need to install your old existing outer tie rods and then have an alignment.

3) For the torque specifications, we have a link to free Chilton’s online in the ‘How To’ section. You may want to check this out as it does provide some torque specs.

Hope this helps.

first of all, thanks for the advice it does help

1) i actually have replaced all of the brakes just this past week, but the vibration has been there for months but i can’t seem to find the problem.
so do you think there is no way it could be the sway bar bushings?

2) ok that makes sense, this ought to be fun lol
do you know how much information from ETCG’s Steering rack video on the Toyota 4Runner can transfer over to a minivan like this T&C?

3) Wow i didn’t know about this at all, thanks! lol

[Author]

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