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It was indeed the oil pump, according to the mechanic. From the receipt: “Found vehicle has severe engine noise, removed valve cover and oil filter and cranked engine and found no oil on valve train or coming from oil filter adapter indicating oil pump had failed. Recommend replacing engine or trying to replace oil pump with no guarantee it will fix bottom end noise.”
I had the car towed back home today and removed the battery. I’m going to drain and drop the oil pan, see what I find (metal shavings?). I want to remove the oil pump but it’s driven by the timing belt on this car which means I’ll have to remove it to access the oil pump – never done that before myself. Guess I have some reading up to do. I did find another OE oil pump + gaskets on RockAuto for $55.
Thanks guys.
I returned to the shop this afternoon to pick up a few things from my car and they already had it in their garage working on it. They confirmed the oil pump had completely failed. Unfortunately they did have to run the engine for about 15 seconds while testing, they said it sounded really bad. They asked me if I wanted to replace the oil pump and cross our fingers, but the odds are very slim that the engine is still useful. At first I gave them the go-ahead to replace the pump but I had second thoughts, since I wouldn’t be able to get that $550 back and I could instead put that money toward another car. I’m having the car towed to my house later on where she’ll be covered by a tarp, until I can get the money for another engine (used, rebuilt, reman, etc) which the shop was kind enough to say they’ll price around over the next few days and give me an accurate estimate, but right now probably about $3500-$4000 including parts and labor.
I got a good year and a half out of the car. Hopefully she’ll run again someday.
[quote=”relative4″ post=186136]Usually I would expect a too-low float bowl to be caused by a misadjusted float. But given your extreme rich condition, maybe the jet from that bowl is too large or leaking. Is the level stable when the car is not running? Is it the same when running and not?
Did you rebuild the carb? Was it having the same sympyoms before the rebuild?
For super-rich conditions, the choke is often a good place to look.[/quote]The fuel level in fuel bowl #1 is constant, but I don’t know for #2 yet – that was the first time I noticed that window there on the carburetor. I’m off work the next couple of days so I’ll be checking on it regularly and get back to you on that.
I didn’t rebuild the carb myself, I took it to a professional carburetor service shop north of me. I’m going to call the guy back tomorrow. The symptoms were similar (hesitation when accelerating from a stop, being worse the colder it is outside) but the car had other problems at the time like vacuum leaks and distributor problems, making it hard to tell what caused which symptoms. I fixed those shortly after the carburetor was rebuilt last June. I noticed this problem coming back around September after replacing the timing belt (it had broken but miraculously with no damage to engine). I also noticed that the rubber insulator gasket that sits between the top of the carburetor and bottom of the air cleaner went missing, I assume a mechanic had taken it off and forgot to put it back in. I haven’t been able to find a replacement for it since then though.
[quote=”Bonnieman” post=186139]The float may have developed a leak, so it’s now filled with gas, instead of floating.
This is some excellent info on the Honda Keihin carbs
https://crxsi.com/info/driveability-diagnostics-emissions/HONDA-KEIHIN-CARBURETOR-REPAIR.htm%5B/quote%5DI’ve had that page bookmarked for a while already 😛
What you say certainly sounds possible, however. I’ll get back to you both shortly with more information on the fuel level in fuel bowl #2.Hello Eric,
I’ve got a 1984 Honda Accord that’s running rich. Idles too low once warmed up (200-300 RPM) and shakes the car unless I put it in Neutral or Park, which raises the RPM to 800-1000 RPM. Carburetor has been rebuilt, distributor, wires, plugs and rotor replaced, air and pcv filters replaced – pretty much everything. The only thing I haven’t replaced related to the issue is the EVAP canister. Could this be the problem or is it something else?
Hello Eric,
I’ve got a 1984 Honda Accord that’s running rich. Idles too low once warmed up (200-300 RPM) and shakes the car unless I put it in Neutral or Park, which raises the RPM to 800-1000 RPM. Carburetor has been rebuilt, distributor, wires, plugs and rotor replaced, air and pcv filters replaced – pretty much everything. The only thing I haven’t replaced related to the issue is the EVAP canister. Could this be the problem or is it something else?
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I wish I could get my hands on one of these as well.
1976 Buick Opel by Isuzu. Very, very rare. I’d like it especially because nobody would know what it is. 😛
Yeah my taste in cars is a little unorthodox I admit. I don’t really like muscle cars or exotic cars, and I especially dislike SUV’s and minivans. I don’t like “showy” cars for the most part, it’s just not my style. Sorry for the long, triple-post.
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I’m not really a coupe kind of guy, I usually go for the sedans. However, there is a notable exception: The 1969 Chevrolet Impala coupe.
Needlessly huge, but freaking awesome.
Now, since I’m used to driving small cars, here’s something I really like.1979 Datsun 210
Isn’t it just the cutest little thing? 😀 I like the 1981’s too:
You could probably extend that to the Toyota Corolla’s of that vintage as well. Even the wagons are neat.
Obviously most of the most beautiful cars made were between the late 50’s, all through the 60’s and into the early/mid 70’s (most people seem to agree at least). However, in terms of my favorite cars that I could actually see myself driving – I have to go with a lot of the late 70s/early 80s GM and Japanese cars. I just love them. They’re post-extravagant, so I don’t feel “show-offy” in them, in fact I even kinda like them all beat-up if they happen to be that way. It also means they’re relatively inexpensive to purchase, unlike the 1960s cars.
1979 Oldsmobile Delta 88 (Royale too, but really just the 77-79 four door sedans):
Big, comfortable cruisers. I love how they ride, and how they “float”. 😀 And yes, brown/tan combo is the best.
And it’s cousin, the 1979 Buick LeSabre (77-79 are all good but 79 had the best grille and taillights):
[quote=”GeneralDisorder” post=179088]You can’t really get parts for that stuff anymore and those 80’s Japanese carbs are very complex and need all their extraneous vacuum controls. Trust me none of that stuff is worth your time.
Rip it all off and install a Weber DGV. Performance, and likely economy will increase and they are very simple. I did one not long ago on an 88 Accord. It was like a different car.
Rick[/quote]
I’ll only move to a different carb if the current one fails to pass smog at some point or becomes too worn/damaged (throttle shafts, etc). The vacuum system in that car is extremely complicated, but I’ll stick with it for the time being. Call me stubborn 😛
I removed the plate that was blocking me from easily getting to the object in the air duct. It took some effort with a flat-tip screwdriver, but I was finally able to free the object:
Pulled the air bleed valves too. The second one appears to be bent and/or stuck closed, but I have no idea really.
Replace?
[quote=”transman304″ post=178649]Air/Ambient temperature sensor.[/quote]
Details please! 🙂
I did finally find a honda parts website that shows details for the air cleaner assembly and all components on my 1984 Honda Accord, including the mysterious harness object.
Shows it being a “Switch Assembly, Air Temp.” yet at the same time, it shows the air bleed valves as “Sensor, Air In.” – confusing much? :unsure:
[quote=”creativepotato” post=178529]Is the rubber on the black wire in the first picture sealed? Maybe it’s some sort of diagnostic harness? It probably wouldn’t hurt to hook up a MM to it and see if any numbers fluctuate under various RPMs. Not responsible for any damages. Just my curious response :)[/quote]
I can twist it around easily but it doesn’t want to pull out when I tug on it. I don’t think it’s a diagnostic harness as this car doesn’t have a computer (’84 Accords all had a vacuum-operated “control box”, Honda’s precursor to an actual ECU which came out in 1985). If not for the wet weather over the last couple of days I would have tested the harness while revving like you suggested.
