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[Ross]

Hi Eric,
My friend has a 1999 chevy k2500 suburban 7.4 that had the dexcool coolant turn into goop in the cooling system. He ran a cleaner through the system and switched to green coolant but now the truck overheats when sitting still. (I’m not sure if it did this before the switch)

The truck also just got a new water pump just before the switch and apparently you’re suppose to replace that clutch thing for the mechanical fan with it, which he did not. I can’t find an obvious obstruction in front of the radiator, but when I looked in the radiator when we were doing the water pump, it looked like mud was in it. My dad said my sister’s 1998 pontiac grand prix needed a radiator after it’s dexcool goop incident, but I don’t want to tell my friend it’s a radiator without being sure of it. How would you go about this problem? It doesn’t loose coolant, just overheats when not moving.

Thanks for your help!

[Ross]

as far as I can tell the engine is operating normally, No smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I can’t say what he does in his free time, but I know he drives less than a mile to get to work, and his coolant gauge never leaves the cold mark.

I’ll see if I can inspect the plugs in his car sometime soon, Thank you!

[Ross]

Hay Eric!
Sorry about the “novel” last show, what turned out the fix was adding dielectric grease to the o2 sensor plug, over 1,000 miles later with no problems!

My question is: what is the weirdest thing you’ve ever encountered working on cars? such as an odd solution or questionable DIY work.

Stay Dirty!

[Ross]

Hi Eric!
I’m back with my 2007 Hyundai tiburon SE (v6 6speed manual 127k miles), and I can’t figure out what is causing this P0153 CEL (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response B2S1). The car runs great, no performance problem, good mpg, can’t find anything wrong with it really hoping you can help. It takes about 200 miles for the CEL to come back after clearing it. It’s also worth mentioning this car is completely stock, no mods done to the engine. I bought the car with lean codes thanks to an eBay cold air intake that had bad couplers, that’s been replaced with a factory air box.

thanks again for all your help, I’m really stuck on this one, I don’t want to take it to a repair shop but I might have to. Stay Awesome!

Everything I’ve done:
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]CAI with a factory intake system
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]spark plugs and ignition wires
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]MAF (OEM)
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]EVAP canister purge solenoid
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]PCV valve
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]Upper/Lower intake manifold & throttle body gaskets
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]Timing belt
[COLOR=”Red”]Replaced [/COLOR]B2S1 (front upper) o2 sensor (OEM)
[COLOR=”Orange”]Checked [/COLOR]B2S1 (front upper) o2 sensor circuit: [COLOR=”Orange”]OK[/COLOR]
[COLOR=”Orange”]Checked [/COLOR]B2S1 (front upper) o2 sensor output voltage: [COLOR=”Orange”]OK[/COLOR]
[COLOR=”Orange”]Checked [/COLOR]intake air temperature sensor: [COLOR=”Orange”]OK[/COLOR]
[COLOR=”Orange”]Checked [/COLOR]fuel pressure: [COLOR=”Orange”]OK[/COLOR]
[COLOR=”Orange”]Checked [/COLOR]exhaust manifold for leaks: [COLOR=”Orange”]OK[/COLOR]
(OK indicates within spec according to the service manual / no problem found)

Edit: Note, not all replacements were replaced regarding this engine code

~Freeze Frame Data~
DTC that caused required freeze frame data storage: [COLOR=”Orange”]P0153[/COLOR]
Fuel system 1 status: [COLOR=”Orange”]CL[/COLOR]
Fuel system 2 status: [COLOR=”Orange”]CL[/COLOR]
Calculate LOAD Value: [COLOR=”Orange”]31.8%[/COLOR]
Engine Coolant Temperature: [COLOR=”Orange”]195°F[/COLOR]
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: [COLOR=”Orange”]3.1%[/COLOR]
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: [COLOR=”Orange”]-3.9%[/COLOR]
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2: [COLOR=”Orange”]-3.9%[/COLOR]
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 2: [COLOR=”Orange”]-2.3%[/COLOR]
Engine RPM: [COLOR=”Orange”]2661/min[/COLOR]
Vehicle Speed: [COLOR=”Orange”]60mph[/COLOR]
Ignition Timing Advance for [URL=http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1[/URL] Cylinder: [COLOR=”Orange”]36.5°[/COLOR]
Intake Air Temperature: [COLOR=”Orange”]66°F[/COLOR]
Air Flow Rate from Mass Air Flow Sensor: [COLOR=”Orange”]3.1b/min[/COLOR]
Absolute Throttle Position: [COLOR=”Orange”]14.5%[/COLOR]

[Ross]

HI Eric! Back again with my 07 Hyundai Tiburon SE manual.

I’ve been hunting a popping noise coming from the front end I can’t seem to track down. When I’ve just started moving the car after it sat for a while, doesn’t matter if it’s cold or warm, and I have the steering wheel at least half way to full lock I’ll sometimes hear a single pop which seems to come from the driver side front. It doesn’t matter if the clutch is fully engaged or slipping, I don’t hear any signs of a bad CV joint while driving, I don’t have any torn CV boots, and I’ve only witnessed it while moving.

I’ve also tried jacking up the front of the car and have someone turn the wheel when it’s in gear while I was under it to see if I could track it down, but it didn’t show any symptoms while it was in the air. something else we noticed is that with the car idling in 4th, if you suddenly give it throttle you can hear a lot of nose from the transmission in the moment it changes from idle to accelerating.

I’ve also tried driving the car at full lock in a parking lot for a while with no luck. The noise doesn’t seem to show itself once you’ve started driving, only when you’re leaving a parking space or something similar. It’s also worth mentioning this car was in a front-right crash.

Thank you again for everything that you do! I cannot begin to describe how much I’ve learned from watching your content!

[Ross]

Hello Eric!

I was “Ross W” according to google, but now that I can choose my name I’m going by The Evenger, but you may remember I was selling my 06 Hyundai Tiburon for another with a manual transmission. I now have a 07 Tiburon SE (v6 6-speed manual) and was wondering about something I’ve noticed while driving.

When I’m in a low gear, 1st or 2nd, and I either go from coasting to gas or vice versa the gear stick moves somewhere 1-3 16ths of an inch and I’m not sure if I should be concerned about it.

Also, I’ve ran into a hydro-locking issue with the most recent storm + my CAI, it never had a full lock, but I nearly couldn’t get it home. The previous owner also removed a piece of trim that would otherwise significantly reduce the amount of water going into intake, which I just received today. It’s positioned behind the fog light in front of the wheel well and was thinking about either cutting it shorter to have the filter inside the engine bay or putting a stock intake on instead and would like your opinion on the matter if possible.

Thanks for your help and all the repair videos! It’s because of your videos that I was able to change my timing belt and save $500 doing so!
Stay Dirty

[Author]

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